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FASHION. 



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FASHIO 

Jh£ pOWER THAT jNFLUENCEg THE -\Y 0RLD - 



THE PHILOSOPHY 



OF 



Ancient and Modern Dress and Fashion, 



GEORGE F\ FOX 



> 

REVISED AND ENLARGED. 



Series A. D. 1850, 1800, 1872 Third Edition. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, 

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Aaiion. 



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GOVERNMENT 



AND THE 



GALLANT PEOPLE 



OF THE 



UNITED STATES. 



CONTENTS. 






Page 

Dedication ix 

Preface xvii 

Introduction . xx 

CHAPTER I. 

The Philosophy of Modern Dress and Fashion ... \J 

CHAPTER II. 
Dress — ijth to igth Century . 24 

CHAPTER III. 

Suggestions on the Diplomatic Dress of U. S. Minis- 
ters, Secretaries of Legation, and Consuls to 
Foreign Governments 37 

CHAPTER IV. 
Etiquette in Dress and Fashion 42 



X i i CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER V. 

Page 

The Dressing Gozvn and Lounging Jacket .... 44 

CHAPTER VI. 
The Morning Dress 45 

CHAPTER VII. 
The Riding Dress 48 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Hunting Dress 5° 

CHAPTER IX. 
Dinner Dress 5 l 

CHAPTER X. 
Evening Full Dress 53 

CHAPTER XI. 
Clerical Dress 56 

CHAPTER XII. 
Judicial Dress 58 



CONTENTS. Xlii 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Page 

Collegiate Dress . ........... 60 

CHAPTER XIV. 

European and American Wedding Dress 61 

CHAPTER XV. 
Liveries 65 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Funeral Dress 67 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The Code of Fashionable Intercourse 69 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
The Drawing-Room Dress, etc. ........ 80 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The Ball-Room Dress and Address 82 

CHAPTER XX. 
The Promenade Dress, etc 85 



\ i V CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Page 

The Etiquette of Carriage and Equestrian Exercises, 87 

CHAPTER XXII. 
The Etiquette of Courtship and Matrimony ... 89 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
The Code of Commercial Intercourse 93 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

The Relation of the Buyer and the Seller .... 100 



gtipyUmyititri) Series 

Dress and Fashion from English Authors . . . . 107 

Dress and Fashion — American Authors— Fashion . . 115 

Dress and Fashion — American Authoi's — Costume . 120 

A Star of Fashion — Bath, England, and Beau Nash, 130 

Essays on Dress and Fashion, 1790- 1868 . . . . 135 

Fashion and its Leaders 141 



CONTENTS. XV 

Page 

Of the Beauty of Colors 145 

Form, Expression, Attitude 148 

Dress and Fashion — Lord Chesterfield to his Son, etc. 159 
The Emigrant — The Adopted Citizen of the United 

States, etc 179 

Correspondejice and Notices of the Press, etc. . .199—254 



" We give it as our opinion that Mr. Fox's work on Dress and 
polite Address will command an immense circulation, both here and 
in Europe." — New York Express. 

"The author handles the subject like an adept in polite and 
elegant literature." — Washington City Correspondence. 

" Mr. Fox has given to the world an essay on modern Dress and 
Fashion of transcendental merit." — London Saturday Review. 

"No polite gentleman, 'par excellence' can consistently do without 
the information upon Dress and Address contained in Mr. Geo. P. 
Fox's volume." — Uiditnond Enquirer. 

"I h:ard there were two Presidents in the East Room, — the 
President of the United States and the President of Fashion, Mr. 
George P. Fox." 



PREFACE 



" Authors are judg'd by strange capricious rules, 
The great ones are thought mad, the small ones fools ; 
Yet sure the best are most severely fated, 
For fools are only laugh'd at — wits are hated, 
Blockheads with reason men of sense abhor, 
But fool' gainst fool is barb'rous eivil war, 
Why on all authors then should critics fall ? 
Since some have wit, and shown no wit at all." — Pope.. 

In promulgating a code for the government of fashionable 
intercourse there must necessarily be, more or less, an arbitrary 
style in its preparation, an authoritative diction to give it force 
and efficacy ; and it is quite possible that this peculiarity may 
be noticed in the following pages. The author begs leave to 
state, that in the preparation of this work he has been 



xv ;ii PEE FACE. 

actuated only by a desire to impart information where it is 
most needed, to inculcate the necessity of observing the 
requirements of fashionable society upon those who know the 
right and yet the wrong persue, in many points of dress and 
etiquette ; and who are led into serious mistakes by those 
whom they are taught to regard as guides in their conduct in 
the polite circles of society. 

Among other missions that this work is intended to perform 
may be mentioned chiefly the two following : The improvement 
of taste in general society and the offer of suggestions to those 
who are considered its leaders, on the duties which their 
position in the community requires. And 2d. To give such 
plain hints to those about to enter polite society that it will be 
impossible for them to go astray, if they rightly consider and 
improve upon the principles and philosophy of modern dress. 

At the present day many men of wealth are inclined to pay 
more attention to the decoration of their houses than to the 
proper adornment of their persons. Thus, while they gladden the 
eye by beauty of architectural display and interior embellishment 



PREFACE. XIX 

they nevertheless sadden the hearts of friends by a slovenly 
exhibition in the poor attire of their person. Reform is needed 
in this particular. And it is to be hoped that this work will 
be mainly instrumental in creating a more general desire for 
original taste, not only in the adornment of the house we dwell 
in, but in an equal consideration for the house in which we 
live, literally speaking, the body. 



INTRODUCTION. 



My dukedom to a beggarly denier, 

I do mistake my person all this while ; 

Upon my life she finds, although I cannot, 

Myself to be a marvellous proper man. 

I'll have my chambers lined with looking-glasses, 

And entertain a score or two of tailors, 

To study fashions to adorn my body." —Richard III. 



FASHION. 

Fashion is and has been and will be, through all ages, 
the outward form through which the mind speaks to the 
material universe. 

" It is a power which without concerted action, without 
either thought, law or religion, seems stronger than all of 
them." 

We wear forms — we see forms — we like and dislike forms, 
places, shades and colors. Form and Fashion go hand in 



INTRODUCTION. XXI 

hand, links of the same harmonious chain creating all the 
outward life we live. 

' Fashion in all languages designs to make, shape, model, 
adapt, embellish and adorn. It has modelled society and 
shaped Empires ; and has held in its scales the fates of 
kingdoms and the destinies of commonwealths. It has 
entered into the life of all nations and will be identified in 
its influence with our fortunes forever. So universal is its 
control that we cannot escape from its all-encircling embrace. 
Wherever we go, whatever we do, whatever we are, Fashion 
holds the wand of power over us, more blandly, but not 
less imperiously than the sceptre of empire was swayed by 
the Cassars. 

Fashion, then, means our outward life. Not merely the 
dress we wear, the latest dance for the festive hall, nor the 
style of carriage, or livery of the servant. It decides archi- 
tecture, embellishing the Doric, the Ionic, the Corinthian, 
and the Cosmopolitan, taking a grander and higher form in 
the Roman. 

In the Middle Ages it prescribed the Grothic, and the 
matchless structures of those periods which now amaze and 



xxii INTRODUCTION. 

delight the traveller, from the banks of the Ehine to the 
thousand glittering spires that shoot into heaven from that 
miracle of beauty, the Cathedral of Milan. 

It dictates law for the just and the unjust; it influences 
the forms of worship, for it decorates the panels of the 
Christian Church, as well as those of the synagogue, the 
Turkish moslem, the Chinese pagoda, and dresses all priests 
and altars. 

Fashion presides at every scene of life ; from the cradle to 
the tomb its empire is unbroken. Its subjects are all man- 
kind. 

Dress is only one of the countless forms in which Fashion 
asserts her dominion. But in this great department espe- 
cially, it is peculiarly the province of art to adapt and per- 
fect form to nature and classic taste. 

Inconsiderately as men sometimes speak- of tailors, no 
painter or sculptor of any proficiency is ever heard to dis- 
parage the successful efforts of a good tailor. They know 
that the drapery on figures must fall gracefully, and harmo- 
nize with the shape and style of the subject; and it is one 



INTRODUCTION. XX111 

of the most difficult achievements of their arts to accomplish. 
It is just as true of the tailor and his profession. 

In this respect the tailor with his shears, the author with 
his pen, the sculptor with his chisel, the painter with his 
pencil, or the genius that produces beautiful combinations 
abridging labor, while benefitting the laborer, stand on the 
same relative scale, each desirous of producing that which 
ennobles and adorns our common humanity. 

Probably not one garment made in a hundred is a perfect 
fit. It is one of the most difficult arts in the world to dress 
a man perfectly. No matter what may be the prevailing 
fashion of dress, no two men are made near enough alike to 
be equally well-fitted by the same article ; consequently a 
ready-made garment, cut for unknown or unseen figures, is, 
according to the law of good taste, an impossibility, and 
never did, nor ever will, grace the person of a gentleman of 
acquired taste. A difference in occupation, stature, form, 
attitude, complexion, or even manners, will decide the fabric 
and color of the garment best suited to each individual style ; 
and a thousand combinations have patiently to be elabora- 



XX iv INTRODUCTION. 

ted to produce that rare sight — a perfectly well-dressed gen- 
tleman. 

If the author had not achieved this point of eminence in 
his art, he should regard his life as a grievous disappoint- 
ment to his professional pride. He, however, depends not 
alone on his own assertions, but is indorsed by the highest 
and noblest in the land. His credentials are voluminous 
from the eminent living and departed. To quote the words 
of that great patriot and statesman, the illustrious Webster, 
11 1 heard that there were two presidents in the east room, 
the President of Fashion, Mr. George P. Fox, and the Pres- 
ident of the United States, Mr. Millard Fillmore." * 

" Some with a flasli begin and end in smoke; 
Others in smoke begin and bring forth glorious light, 
And without raising expectations high, 
Dazzle us with surprising miracles." 

* The levee at the White House, Washington, D. C. (See notices of the press.) 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 17 



PHILOSOPHY OF FASHION. 



CHAPTER L 



THE PHILOSOPHY OF MODERN DRESS AND FASHION. 

" Only because I wore a threadbare suit, 

I was not worthy of a poor salute. 

A few good clothes put on with small ado, 

Purchase your knowledge and your kindred too." 

— Heywood's Royal King. 

A great modern writer has no less profoundly than point- 
edly observed that " In the one universal subject of clothes, 
rightly understood, is included all that men have thought, 
done and dreamed. The whole external universe and all 
that it contains is but clothing • and the essence of all science 
lies in the philosophy of clothes." 

We regard dress not merely as an envelope of broadcloth, 
cassimere, silk, satin, or velvet, wrought up in more or less 
taste after the model of a prevailing pattern, but as one of 
the most significant expressions of character, and sustaining 
an intimate relation with manners and morals. 

It is universally admitted that nothing marks the gentle- 

2 



18 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

man more than the style of his dress. The elegance, pro- 
priety and good taste which are conspicuous in that, at once 
create a presumption in his favor. They form a perpetual 
letter of recommendation whose validity is everywhere ac- 
knowledged. A rich and becoming costume answers as a 
passport to the traveller ; opens the door of hospitable 
courtesy to the stranger ; gives the citizen a free ticket to the 
best places in society ; forms a decorous ornament to wealth* 
and where wealth is wanting, in many respects supplies its 
place. You notice the well dressed gentleman in the streets ; 
in the most crowded thoroughfares he is conspicuous above 
the throng ; he challenges your admiration even at a distance. 
" Far off his coming shines." 

As he approaches, } 7 ou are struck with the exquisite con- 
tour of his dress, the tasteful harmony of its colors, the 
charming smoothness and supple undulation of its fit ; and 
you instinctively pronounce its wearer to be a gentleman. 
He has received justice at the hands of his tailor, and you 
cannot mistake the seal of his gentility. 

Nor is the dress a less important indication of the personal 
taste of the wearer. It often marks the distinction between 
vulgarity and refinement ; it shows the disposition no less 
clearly than language or conduct. A mind imbued with a 
love of elegance, devoted to the beautiful harmonies of form, 
of color, of motion ; inspired with a passion for the becoming, 
the lovely, and the graceful, will not fail to manifest itself in 
selection and arrangements of dress. You see its innate love 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 19 

in its outward surroundings. Good taste is, in fact, like good 
music — it harmonizes and marks the whole man. It extends 
to the cut of a garment, no less than to the construction of 
an epic. "We have always noticed that a polished mind 
was attached to graceful and elegant attire. We judge of 
the good taste of a man, not merely by his air and bearing, 
his speech and gesture, or his love of art and literature, but 
also and in a great measure by his dress. We have often 
been deceived by the one, seldom or ; never by the other. 
The character of the dress, moreover, is important as a sign 
of social position. The moralists say, a man is known by 
the company he keeps. We say he is better known by the 
clothes he wears. The air of good society cannot be given 
except by education, aided by the artistic hand of a genuine 
tailor. 

The relation of dress to manners and morals is too obvious 
to be insisted on. The first condition of good manners is 
ease and self-confidence. If you have no self-respect, your 
manners cannot win the respect of your associates. If you 
are not easy with yourself, you can never make them easy 
with others. But can a man be at ease in a coat out at el- 
bows, a coat which hangs like a meal-bag upon his shoulders, 
a coat which reminds you of a specimen of fossil remains, or 
an heirloom from one of the company in the ark, a coat 
which is a badge of contempt, a sign of vulgarity, an ex- 
pression of a dilapidated purse, a careless disposition or an 
uncultivated and barbarous taste? No, an ill-dressed man 



20 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

must be ill at ease. His manners must be forced and un- 
graceful. He never can show that delightful suavity, that 
fascinating union of spirit and sweetness, that enchanting 
harmony of expression and movement which distinguish 
the finished gentleman unless he feels perfectly at home in 
his clothes, unless they have been fitted to his person, his 
character, and his plrysiognomy, with that exquisite skill 
which is essential to the style of manners, so finely described 
by the great orator Edmund Burke as the " unbought grace 
of life." 

Our great American statesman, the late Daniel Webster, 
was no less distinguished for the graceful and imposing dig- 
nity of his manners than for his diplomatic skill and his 
commanding eloquence. But as he was the most able of 
constitutionalists, so was he one of the best dressed of gen- 
tlemen. 

In the favorite costume, blue and buff, of an illustrious 
namesake of the author, the British commoner, Charles 
James Fox, no man appeared to more trandscendent ad- 
vantage in a legislative hall or a fashionable drawing-room, 
than did the eminent expounder of the constitution; while on 
more solemn occasions these colors were doffed, to give place 
to the more sombre black mingled with white. We will not 
undertake to say in what degree he was indebted to the per- 
fection of his dress for his imposing presence ; but we do 
say that his dress gave an additional power to the majesty 
of his demeanor, and the weight of his eloquence. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 21 

"We may quote his own words to this effect, when on don- 
ning a suit from the once celebrated emporium of Milton's 
(a retired tailor) he exclaimed, " Ah, I now breathe 
easier than I have done for a long time ; indeed, I feel as 
if I were in Milton's Paradise regained." 

The influence of dress on morals presents a theme for the 
pen of a philosopher ; a merchant-tailor, however experi- 
enced, can scarcely hope to do it justice. We will, however, 
venture to submit, that no civilized man is apt to commit a 
crime in a good suit of clothes. An easy and graceful gar- 
ment is incompatible with a deed of violence. The serenity 
produced by a perfect fitting suit puts one in good humor 
with all mankind. Arrayed in a fine and elegant costume, 
with the consummate polish of appearance which it is 
equally the duty and the pride of the conscientious artist 
tailor to impart, a man feels his responsibilities as a citizen, 
is inspired with a love of order, becomes refined and elevated 
in his tastes, is filled with respect for law, decorum and 
propriety, and finds in his own character a guarantee against 
temptation. Indeed, out of the immense number of custom- 
ers who have honored the author with their patronage, we 
do not know of one who has ever been convicted of a crime.* 
Many we have seen raised by that influence to exalted sta- 
tions. Not one has been brought before a court of justice ; 
not one but who sustains a fair and estimable character, as 
an American citizen. Is it not evident that the secret of 

* (Viz., up to 1860. Multum in parvo. More meant than meets the ear.) 



22 FASHION* AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

virtue is often found in the wardrobe — that a good dress is 
a great preservative of good morals? 

But we must not omit to mention the connection of dress 
with commerce, the importance of which cannot be overlook- 
ed in our mercantile community. The tailor and the dress- 
maker are indispensable media between the importing mer- 
chant and the consumer. They distribute the commodities 
which are furnished by commerce. Until the goods of the 
merchant have passed through their hands, their value is in 
a dormant state, and they contribute nothing to the embellish- 
ment or the utility of life. Patronize the tailor, you give an 
impulse to commerce ; you help to keep open the great 
highway of nations ; you lend your support to the most 
efficient and most indispensable agency of civilization. In 
seeking the taste and elegance of your own personal appear- 
ance, you not only contribute to the interests of the profes- 
sion, but promote the welfare of our common country and 
universal fashion. 

"Let Fashion - follow the Treasures of the United 
States."* 

Such, fellow-citizens, is the importance of a wise devotion 
to this branch of social economy. We maintain that you 
cannot overrate the value, and hence you perceive the neces- 
sity of availing yourselves of the aid of such artists as you 
can rely on for strength and fineness of fabric, elegance of 
fashion, color, perfection of fit and of finish. 

* George P. Fox, at the Levee, Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 23 

We are actuated, by a noble ambition, to elevate the 
uniform dress and costume of the age to its true place, in 
the unfathomed interest of the world of fashion ; to make 
the American citizen as renowned for his garment as for his 
institutions ; to cause Paris, London and Berlin to hide their 
diminished heads as arbiters of gentility ; and to adorn the 
Doric simplicity of American principles by the inimitable 
grace and elegance of an appropriate cosmopolitan costume. 
While in no way anxious to curtail, but, on the contrary, 
wishing to increase the business of our fellow-citizens, our 
sole desire is to establish a style of fashion commensurate 
with the growing importance and dignity of this national 
Union. 



2± FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER II 



DRESS — 17th to 19th century. 

" And catch the manners living as they rise, 

Laugh where we must, be candid when we can."— Pope. 

" And beauty advances with a single hair." 

Queen Elizabeth — Dudley Earl of Esses — Sir Walter Raleigh — Lord 
Bacon — CheA T alier Bayard — Cardinal Wolsey and Richelieu — General 
Washington. 

Adornment of the person appears, from ancient and mod 
em testimony, to be an instinct of our nature. As a tribute 
of affection for those we love, we decorate our bodies to ex- 
hibit our appreciation of the heart. The earliest Greek 
sculpture known represents a lovely maiden twining a 
wreath of flowers in her lover's hair. The savage, in his 
native wilds, the South Sea-Islanders, and our own Aborigi- 
nes, have their garments tastefully embroidered by those 
who love them, and in the civilized world the first gift of 
awakened affection is an ornament for the person of the 
loved one. Mothers, from the highest rank to the humblest 
walks of life, always have this sentiment, and exert their 
abilities and their means to dress their children to the great- 
est advantage, deeming rightly that, in so doing, they awak- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 25 

en sympathy in each maternal heart beating in unison with 
their own affections. 

Despite the sarcasm levelled against dress by the unthink- 
ing and imappreciative, the subject has engaged the practi- 
cal attention of some of the wisest and most celebrated men 
of all ages, nor has the study been unproductive of praise- 
worthy results. The sway maintained over the mind of 
Queen Elizabeth, by the celebrated Dudley, Earl of Essex, 
was by the exercise of his remarkable mental powers ; and 
when he was reproved by his brother, the Earl of Suffolk, 
for the value he placed upon the adornment of his person, 
who said, "Parts like yours need no such vanities," replied : 
" The writings of a clerkly scribe takes not from the wisdom 
of the erjistle, but rather tempts to a frequent perusal there- 
of. Why should a well-fashioned exterior, or a nice casket 
lessen the value of the jewel within it?" The Chevalier 
Bayard declared, under nearly similar circumstances, " that 
he who cared not for his personal appearance, cared not for 
his friends, or their opinions." The Cardinals Wolsey and 
Eichelieu, Archbishop Fenelon, Sir Walter Ealeigh, Lord 
Herbert, the celebrated George Yilliers, Duke of Bucking- 
ham, the admirable Crichton, and many others of talent 
and distinction, are described by the authors of their times, 
as " marvelous proper men " in their dress, and its appropri- 
ateness and fashion. In one of the letters of the great Lord 
Bacon, in the Yeralam collections, he writes : " The fashion- 
er (tailor) hath made my gown of a color so unsuited to me 



26 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

as to make me appear sick, as if badly distempered." Thus 
proving that the great philosopher had in his mind an ap- 
preciation of the true aims of dress — its appropriateness of 
color to the complexion of the wearer. Dress, like every 
other thing in this life, is as commendable for its use as it 
is reprehensible for its abuse. Its uses and influences upon 
society are what all have attempted to prove, and it is hoped 
that the great names quoted above will rescue the subject 
from the shallow apology too often made its abuse," — that it 
is trifling and undeserving our study. 

How material to our worldly interests a good exterior 
may become, is a matter of daily experience. Our first ap- 
pearance before one upon whom our success in life in some 
degree depends, or before the opposite sex, in whom we 
seek a personal interest, often creates impressions favorable 
and beneficial bej^ond our fondest hopes, or may unjustly 
detract from our real merits, in a manner that requires much, 
time and effort to obliterate, if they ever be completely re- 
moved. In this latter position, an ill-made suit of clothes, 
or unsuitable in color, may still more strongly turn the tide 
of opinion to our disadvantage, and in a manner we can 
scarcely conceive ; and the common and unfriendly defence 
is, "Yes, Smith is a good fellow, when you know him, but 
he has no taste, and is quite a sloven in his dress." This 
must be regarded as anything but complimentary, in meet- 
ing the bad impressions already formed. Nor can such a 
slate of things be looked upon as much less than a grievous 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 27 

fault, when the remedy is so easily in the reach of all. 
With the opposite sex, we keenly see and instantly detect 
the want of taste that detracts from their pleasing appear- 
ance. " What an indifferently dressed girl she is ! Who 
would think that any one of Miss Jones' complexion could 
wear a blue or a green dress ! It makes her look as yellow 
as saffron." These are the daily remarks of men, who are 
themselves guilty of the same solecisms of taste. 

If a gentleman goes to an establishment, which has for its 
principal a man of taste, who knows his profession thor- 
oughly, such defects would be instantly remedied. 

An instance occurred a few years since, where a gentleman 
of fortune made an observation to the following effect, in an 
establishment on Broadway : " It is of no use, Mr. G. P. 
Fox, for me to care what I wear ; nobody could make me 
look well. I must therefore depend upon other attractions, 
not upon dress, for the impression I am to make upon socie- 
ty." The reply was, "Will you permit me, sir, to select 
your dress, and leave its details altogether to my arrange- 
ment? If your friends and yourself are not satisfied with 
the result, which I am confident they will be, you will at 
least be no worse off. " Laughingly, but doubtingly, the offer 
was accepted, and the specialties of complexion and bodily 
form were. studied and overcome. A color suited to the com- 
plexion was chosen, the extreme length of neck was modi- 
fied, the great fall of shoulders was remedied by the setting 
in of the sleeves and their surroundings, and in effecting 



28 FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

these improvements an exact fit was for the first time applied 
to the form, giving a gentlemanly ease and freedom from all 
restraint, as pleasing as it was novel. His friends accosted 
him with, "Dear me, how remarkably well you look to-day. 
What have you been doing with yourself?" And his imme- 
diate relatives declared he was an altered man. With all 
the necessary attributes of mind and of fortune, he needed 
but this to place him upon an equality with those he had 
deemed more fortunate than himself in their external appear- 
ance. 

The effect of the color of the clothing upon the complex- 
ion of the wearer can scarcely be credited by those who have 
not witnessed the fact and studied its causes. In some com- 
plexions one color and its various shades will produce a 
greenish tinge, and another color will bathe the same coun- 
tenance with a violet tinge, whilst the contrast produced 
when the clothes are formed of a proper contrast of color 
will give to the face the ordinary healthy flesh tint. In 
suiting the clothing to the complexion of the wearer, a knowl- 
edge of colors and their modifications by contrast is abso- 
lutely essential. Where a shade of sallowness approaching 
to a yellow tinge pervades the countenance, if a light blue 
or green be worn, the natural tendency is to increase the 
sallowness almost to a }^ellow. If, on the contrary, shades 
of brown, particularly those having a tint of yellow mixed 
with red, be worn, the defect is so modified by the contrast 
as to be lost to the ordinary observer. Under such circum- 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 29 

stances, in black full dress, the judicious introduction of the 
modifying tint near the face, will also serve to produce the 
desired contrast. Two cases in point may serve to illustrate 
the fact better than a more elaborate elucidation of the the- 
ory upon which the contrast is founded. The witty Colonel 
Kingsman, in the beginning of the present century, was in 
the height of his fame. Those who did not know him con- 
tinually noticed the extraordinary yellowness of his face. 
One day a little girl, a spoiled child, asked him before the 
Prince of Wales, afterwards George the 4th, " Why have 
you a face like brass, Colonel?" The wit replied : '- Because 
I am a man of metal, my love." But the attention brought 
upon him rankled in his mind, and caused him annoyance. 
Beau Brummell, who was one of the Colonel's most intimate 
friends, perceiving the effect produced, told him that if he 
would go with him to his tailor, who had taste and judg- 
ment, he would assist him in remedying the defect. Brum- 
mell's promise was fulfilled, and to such a degree, that the 
Prince's joke that Kingsman was the man with the brass 
mask completely lost its application. The well-known Lord 
Petersham (the late Earl of Harrington) was of a peculiarly 
sallow complexion, although otherwise a remarkably hand- 
some man. To overcome this defect, his tailor invented 
that brown, now known as the " Harrington brown," in a 
full suit of which he was dressed for morning attire during 
his life. The effect of this brown, in overcoming the sallow- 
ness of his face, induced him to have his liveries of the same 



30 FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

shade, and his carriages were painted of the same color. 
Brummell was a man of great talent as well as taste, and to 
him we are indebted for the frock-coat, which superseded 
the swallow-tailed dress-coat in morning costume ; for the 
trowsers superseding the tight-fitting habiliments previously 
prevailing ; for the broad-spread neckcloth ; for making the 
black necktie fashionable, and for the introduction of starch 
into the white necktie. In his intimacy with the Prince of 
Wales he made those suggestions to the Prince that caused 
him to be the best dressed man — the first step toward being 
the first gentleman in Europe. Brummell was the first 
man to make fashions in some degree succumb to the 
requirements and peculiarities of the individual, and the 
color of dress to the complexion of the wearer. Count 
D'Orsay in recent days did not think it derogatory to his 
great and varied abilities to make dress his study, and indeed 
to become the leader of fashion in that particular, in England 
as well as on the continent of Europe ; and with his large 
and generous heart, nothing gave him greater pleasure than 
suggesting the cut and color that would best become his 
friends, and put them upon good terms with themselves. 

General Washington was celebrated for his noble appear- 
ance, majestic form, and intuitive taste in dress. The effect 
of the yellowish buff vest, small clothes linings and facings, 
and the gilt buttons of his blue uniform coat, in making it 
harmonize with the weather-beaten complexion of the hero, 
seems to have evinced an inborn taste and judgment rarely 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 31 

witnessed. When General Washington, as president, was 
dressed for his civic receptions, the richness of the material, 
black silk velvet and point lace ruffles, their admirable fit 
and the imposing presence, that adorned rather than was 
adorned by them, showed how sensibly alive he was to the 
harmony of his personal appearance. Greneral Hamilton was 
also well known for his admirable taste in dress ; and 
Washington's suite, or military family, as it was then the 
fashion to call them, took their initiative of taste in their 
costume from their great chief. Military uniform, however, 
has but a recent history in comparison with civic fashions. 
For many ages uniformity was impossible, the armies being 
composed of levies upon the Barons, who brought to their sov- 
ereigns quotas of men according to the extent of their domain. 
Besides this, the universal custom of wearing armor rendered 
it unnecessary. King Charles the First, of England, ordered 
the leather buff suits of the army to be made after one 
pattern. Charles 2d, some years after the restoration, or- 
dered the scarlet coat to be the dress-coat of the army, and 
in his latter years of the royal guards. This uniform con- 
tinued through the succeeding reigns of James, William of 
Orange and Anne, until the Duke of Marlborough, before 
the battle of Blenheim, did away with the cuirass which 
the great Napoleon restored to his heavy cavalry— the 
cuirassiers. The three-cornered hat, trimmed with lace, 
etc., the square coat with long waist, formed of scarlet 
cloth with gold lace, lined with buff, the corners turned up 



32 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

so as to display an angle of the lining, whilst small clothes 
and canvas leggins, reaching above the knees, were the dress 
of the army, which, with trifling modifications, lasted until af- 
ter the breaking out of the American revolution. The great 
Washington chose a blue and buff uniform of a similar pat- 
tern for that of the continental troops. At first, this was 
confined to the staffs and some of the officers. Blue has 
now become the national uniform, and the handsome contrast 
of blue shaded colors, so pleasing to the eye and becoming 
to the martial wearer, has engrafted itself upon the hearts of 
the people, and is inseparably associated with the father of 
his country and its heroic defenders.* 

Up to the last few years the convenience of the soldiers, 
or the fitness of the form of the regimental to the duties of 
his avocation, entered very little into the thoughts of those 
who contrived new uniforms. George the 4th, when Prince 
Eegent for more than twenty years, undertook the task of 
composing uniforms, caps, helmets, shockos, casquettes, 
jackets, coatees and pelisses, changed from day to day, truss- 

* For a more detailed description of the "regulations and dress of the TJ. S. Army 
and Navy," the reader is respectfully referred to the books issued by the War and Navy 
Departments, containing elaborate drawings, official descriptions and orders by the 
Department of State at Washington, D. C. The practical experience of the author 
respectfully suggests that the fabrics for the U. S. service should be free from shoddy, 
in material and otherwise ; and that all woven woolen materials shall be water repel- 
lant, warranted not to shrink or fade in color. U. S. N. for distinction, known as the 
darkest blue. U. S. A. of a lighter shade, viz. : no third shade. It is further suggested 
that, U. S. Volunteer Regiments, Zouaves and soldiers, be clothed in like manner. 
Choose fancy fast colors, each and all soldiers, and others in the service, suitably 
dressed in the same exact shade of material. The arms and accoutrements, &c, all 
to exact certified latest approved pattern. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 33 

ing up the soldier like a pigeon stuffed for roasting, and 
dressing him so tightly, that each manoeuvre created a fear 
in the beholder that their garments would be split in pieces. 
In 1817 the Duke of Wellington introduced trousers into 
the army, but could not, before the end of a long life, get 
the tunic or frock-coat to supplant the tight-fitting body- 
coat. The French first saw that the wide trousers and 
roomy tunic gave the soldier an immense advantage, and 
freedom from restraint while on duty. England followed, 
and we are gradually following a similar plan. 

There might be introduced many improvements in mili- 
tary uniforms, and its readier adaptation to the freedom and 
graceful appearance of the wearer, the details of which can 
not be gone into in a brief essay like this, but which would 
come home immediately to the mind of the educated soldier, 
whose conservative prejudices have not fossilized his judg- 
ment. Although the gold lace and embroidery of Europe are 
not copied by us to a great extent, yet both arms of the ser- 
vice have been the victims of expensive and injudicious 
changes, in which caprice, in many instances, rather than 
judgment, has guided their invention. 

In the navies of England and France, great changes have 
taken place for the last two centuries. In the first named 
country, blue, faced with white, has been used until lately, 
and in the latter, red, with gold lace, &c. King William 
the 4th altered the facings of the British Navy to red, 
for a brief period, but ultimately restored it. 



3-i FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

The uniform and dress of the United States Navy were 
originally very simple : a blue dress suit, with epaulettes, 
the navy button, and a chapeau, being all that distinguished 
it from that of the civilian. This gave way some years since to 
more apparent distinctions of rank, by the distribution of 
the buttons, and a number of gold bands, &c., around the 
cuffs. In the month of March, 1852, the Navy Department 
issued a regulation order, for a change in the uniform and 
dress of the service. Each grade of commissioned officers, 
including the Marine Corps, were obliged to have undress, 
service, and full dress uniforms — the last richly ornamented 
with gold lace or embroidery on the collar, epaulettes, lace 
on the cuffs and pantaloons, according to rank, having on 
them the insignia of the particular grade in the service, 
with swords, chapeau, &c, to match. This costly uniform 
completely eclipses the modest dress of the army. 

Various alterations have been effected by the successive 
secretaries of the army and navy. The principal one, how- 
ever, in the navy uniform, has been, in the abolishing of the 
body or full dress uniform coat. Whenever this latter 
change has been discussed, among distinguished naval com- 
manders, it has alwaj's been with the popular opinion against 
that change. A partial restoration of the uniform dress coat has 
been made in favor of certain specified ranks in the service, 
especially referred to in the printed regulations of the Navy 
Department, for the year 1869, &c. Uniform and dress of 
the Revenue Marine Service has also been issued by the 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDBESS. 35 

Secretary of the Treasury. The allusions here made to' the 
uniforms of the respective services of the United States are 
necessarily brief. The author, for a more elaborate descrip- 
tion, would refer the reader to the regulations issued by the 
departments of the respective services. 

The latter remarks are equally applicable in reference to 
the uniform and dress of the State of New York Militia, and 
other State Volunteer Militia, their uniforms being dis- 
tinctive, soldier-like and efficient, yet different to the regular 
army of the United States. The uniforms of the New York 
Metropolitan Police Force, and Fire Department, are also 
obliged to conform to the printed regulations of the services 
here related. 

For reasons stated, it is not the author's intention to de- 
scribe in this edition minutely every article that is consid- 
ered requisite or fashionable for a gentleman's dress, of the 
present day; it would require, to do the latter subject jus- 
tice, at least many other volumes, containing pictorial illus- 
trations, commonly called plates of fashion, with explana- 
tory printed descriptions of gentlemen r s under and outward 
attire, in manner similar to those that are regularly published 
in this country, France, England, Germany, &c. The fashion 
plates are generally accompanied with what is called tailors' 
■paper patterns, and directions showing, to a certain extent, 
and giving a rough idea of the various modifications each 
garment is supposed to require, to harmonize in taste, cut, 
style, trimmings, fabrics, shades, and colors, deemed suitable, 



36 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

all of which are more or less useful for the guidance of the 
tailor and his customers, in the formation of civilian dress 
costume, the Army, the Navy, Liveries, &c. 

Many of the leading fashionable tailors here import with 
their fabrics, viz., cloths, cassimeres, vestings, &c, plates of 
fashions, also suits of clothes, overcoats, &c. ; the latter from 
some of the most celebrated tailors of France, Germany, 
England, and other parts of Europe. 

The inventive genius and enterprise of the Americans 
being proverbial, they at once discard the incongruities, an- 
tiquated, stiff, formal, vulgar character of the European 
made clothes, and originate in their stead new styles of im- 
proved patterns, combining the advantages of the foreign 
made garments, in the superior adaptation of construction, 
gracefulness, ease and faultless finish, the admitted character 
of the American Standard of Fashion. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 37 



CHAPTER III. 



SUGGESTIONS ON THE DIPLOMATIC DRESS OF U. S. MINIS- 
TERS, SECRETARIES OF LEGATION, AND CONSULS 
TO FOREIGN GOVERNMENTS. 

If I had served my God with but half the zeal 

I have served my king, 

He would not thus have deserted me 

In mine old age. — Shakespeare. 

There exists a great diversity of opinion among civilians, 
as well as officials, of what should constitute the costumes 
of our diplomatic representatives abroad. Many support the 
views of the late Mr. Marcy, when holding the office of 
Secretary of State. These views were, that an American 
representative at a foreign court, should appear in the sim- 
ple dress of an American citizen, viz. : a black cloth suit. 
The contrast of this garb with the brilliant surroundings of 
uniforms and court costumes, makes the wearer appear as if 
he had suddenly come from a funeral ceremony into a gay 
assemblage. Besides, it presents the representative of the 
great American Eepublic, in the relation to the rest of the 
guests, of being mistaken for one of the subordinate waiters 
(See index of contents and correspondence.) 



38 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

It lias been remarked by those who are far more compe- 
tent to judge than the late Hon. Mr. Marcy, that such a dress 
is as much out of place in a court as he was. Some of our 
most enlightened citizens who have been presented at the 
various courts of Europe consider the above objections. 
The}- are equally supported by our Foreign Ministers, Secre- 
taries of Legations and Consuls. Both parties mostjcordially 
agree, that the objections could be easily obviated without 
incurring the prejudices of the people, but on the other 
hand, eliciting their patriotic approval. It has been appro- 
priately suggested, that the costume of the father of his 
country, as he appeared on state occasions, would be a suit- 
able one for our Foreign Ministers. This consisted of a 
full suit of black silk velvet, with knee breeches, silk hose 
and dress pumps, frilled shirt ruffled cuffs, and court 
dress sword. The same high authorities also recommend 
that a similar suit, with modifications, be worn by the Secre- 
tary of Legation — yet of so marked a character as to 
distinguish him from his chief; and that the costume of TJ. S. 
Consuls should be governed by the regulation of dress as 
described in the archives of the State Department. The 
author has been favored by the State Department with a de- 
scription of the official costume of the consuls, from which 
he quotes as follows : A single-breasted coat of blue cloth, 
with a standing collar and ten navy buttons in front. Vest 
of white Marseilles or buff cassimere ; pants of blue cloth or 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 39 

cassimere, with, gold lace down the outer seams. With this 
dress a cocked hat and small sword are to be worn. 

The diplomatic and consulate service had, from the com- 
mencement of the Republic, a rich but unobtrusive dress, 
worn by them at foreign courts. This had the high sanction 
of General Washington, who is said to have half-chided Dr. 
Franklin for not wearing it, saying, " That he should uphold 
the dignity of his country, even in the eyes of fools." Gov- 
ernor Marcy, finding means of distinction difficult, hit upon 
the idea of improving and superseding the orders of the 
Father of his Country, by forbidding its continuance. 

While the ancient close-fitting vestments exhibited all the 
bodiky defects to which the physical form was subject, the 
fashioner of judgment of the present day can make the 
clothes of each individual meet the specialties of the occa- 
occasion. A few instances of ordinary variation from the 
true and perfect form will come to the daily experience of 
the reader. The shoulder on the right side has its muscles 
alone developed by many of the occupations of citizens, 
making the left shoulder appear lower and smaller. This is 
successfully obviated by the skilful artist, as is partially 
shown in the case of our late illustrious Commander in-Chief, 
General Scott, whose left shoulder receded from the effects 
of a wound received in battle, the ball from a British musket 
remaining under his blade-bone. By the manner in which 
the writer met and overcame this difficulty, it would be all 
but impossible to detect upon which side the variation was 



40 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

perceptible, and in thus remedying the defect, ease, grace 
and equality of form to the frame was restored. 

A hollowness under the arms by the side of the chest, is 
very common with those not leading an active life. This 
can be as easily and skilfully remedied. The flatness and 
protuberance of the chest can be similarly obviated so as to 
give perfect grace to the figure. 

By judicious cutting, and a knowledge of formation, the 
tall, slight man can be preserved from invidious comparisons, 
and the short and stout individual can equally be relieved 
from his peculiarity of appearance. If the limbs are inclined 
to meet at the knees, by the peculiar cut of the pantaloons, 
this defect can be concealed as when the limbs incline to 
bow ; by another modification of this system, this defect can 
also be relieved from observation. So also what is termed 
buck-knees, similar to Richard the 3d, can be as easily con- 
cealed. A case in point was presented some years since in 
the alterations effected in the appearance of a well-known 
British Minister at Washington. This distinguished gentle- 
man's limbs were peculiarly attenuated and formless, and 
when the author was called upon by him, the ambassador 
wore a dress which was most painful to look upon. But the 
first pair of trousers made for his lordship by the oriental 
system of cutting, instantly removed these peculiarities, and 
placed him on a par with the best dressed and best formed 
members of the Foreign Legation, &c. 

In Paris, the fame of the Duke de Noailles and the Mar- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 41 

quis de Yalmy, as Chief de la Mode, arose from the exact 
adaptation of form, cut and color, to their personal require- 
ments and peculiarities. The present Prince of Wales — al- 
though from his fair complexion and symmetrical form being 
released from the rules pertaining to exceptional cases — is re- 
markable for his taste and chaste neatness of costume. 
Fashion, they say, is an exacting tyrant, but like many other 
despots of modern days, it has been obliged to modify its 
requirements to the wants of the world, as the sole means of 
saving itself from a disgraceful dethronement. 

To be neatly and appropriately dressed is undoubtedly 
our duty as it is our interest. If we would seek the world's 
respect, provided we have the means, let the materials be 
the best of their kind — this will be found the truest and 
wisest economy in the end. 

Let your clothes fit nicely to the form, be appropriate in 
color, and well placed, as the bird arranges his feathers. In 
the business man this insures additional trust and confidence. 
He who cares for his own rights is seldom insensible to those 
of others. To our friends we are as much morally bound to 
offer a pleasing exterior, as a smiling face or a clean, well- 
appointed table. In the family circle it teaches our children 
order, cleanliness, and a love for the proprieties of life, and 
last, but not least, it gives a man a confidence in himself, and 
ease of manners in society, without which it is difficult 
for him to pass as a gentleman, or he of the slovenly dress 
to be recognized as one. 



42 FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 



CHAPTER IV. 



ETIQUETTE IN DRESS AND FASHION. 

" Dress makes the man, the want of it the fellow, 
And all the rest is leather and prunella." 
" Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, 
But not expressed in fancy, rich, not gaudy, 
For the apparel oft proclaims the man." 

Etiquette in dress and fashion is founded upon the all-im- 
portant data, viz. : What is due to ourselves in the position 
we hold in society, and what we owe to those who have a 
claim on our respect, and in whom we are in daily inter- 
course. 

From the time of the patriarchs to the present day, all 
nations of the world have had their ceremonial vestments, 
and despite the sneers of the cynic and the diatribes of the 
disorganizes of the social system, the best bred people of 
the civilized world have distinguished themselves from the 
under classes by the preservation of customs so easy of 
practice, and which convey to the intelligent mind the assur- 
ance, that he who faithfully observes the minor morals of 
society is rarely deficient in its more important virtues. 

The Italian says, " Show me your company, and I will tell 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDBESS. 43 

you who you are." " Respect yourself as the first step to the 
respect of others." This axiom aptly applies to our daily 
dress, upon which we will now note down a few standard 
rules, gathered from the best society and authors in this and 
other countries. 



44 FASniOX AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER V. 



THE DRESSING GOWN AND LOUNGING JACKET. 

" And your gown's a most rare fashion." — Much ado about nothing. 
" A fellow that hath had losses, and one that hath two gowns, 
And everything handsome about him." — Ibid. 

This luxurious robe de charnbre was intended for the dress- 

i 

ing room or chamber only, but heads of families have occa- 
sionally used it as a breakfast habit in their houses. The 
gentleman of true refinement before visitors, would not 
appear so costumed. The wearing of this robe infers that 
the toilet is not thoroughly made, a fact which implies no 
great respect for the visitor so received. A lady might, 
with as much propriety, appear in curl papers at breakfast, 
as a gentleman in a dressing gown. Young men often 
appear at the breakfast table in a tasty, easy fitting and fancy 
trimmed lounging or smoking room jacket. It is not cor- 
rect to wear this garment {a robe de charnbre) at any other 
meal, and certainly not in the drawing-rooms or parlors, in 
presence of polite society. 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 45 



CHAPTER VI 



THE MORNING DRESS. 

" Metliinks I scent the morning air." 
" The morning cock crew loud." 

Hamlet. 

In the cities, the general morning or walking dress is 
that in which the man of refinement appears at the break- 
fast table, the restriction in colors being in regard tc 
black, except the party is in deep mourning, or belongs to 
the learned profession, where the sombre shade is always 
allowable, or in case the complexion of the wearer imperi- 
ously prevents his adoption of light or fancy colors. In the 
first circles of Europe, it is in a high degree bad taste for a 
gentleman to appear in the street during the morning in 
black pantaloons. It is always best that the morning dress 
be in a manner neglige, and the rule which prohibits the 
introduction of every portion of full dress in the early part 
of the day, is also imperative in rendering inadmissible the 
appearance of the morning frock coat upon promenade, at 
or after dinner, or in dress circles. Sack and frock coats of 
various colors and forms, to suit the person and complexion 



46 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

of the wearer, with vest and pantaloons to match in shade, 
or of the same or similar material, forming an agreeable con- 
trast ; scrupulously white linen, black or colored neck-tie 
of modest pattern and becoming shade, white pocket-hand- 
kerchief with colored border, form the morning costume of 
the gentlemen under fifty years of age, after which period 
more quiet colors and contrasts become suitable. The 
office or promenade suit of one color throughout, with ap- 
pliances as above stated, is also strictly within the rule. In 
a morning costume, kid gloves of any fashionable material, 
from a stone-color to a dark olive-color, according to taste, 
are worn. 

Have a good hat ; the secret of your looks 
Lies with the beaver in Canadian brooks. 
Virtue may flourish in an old cravat, 
But man and nature scorn the shocking hat. 

O. W. Holmes. 

The hat which may be worn now varies so much in shape 
and color, that all that can be said upon that subject is, that 
the wearer should select according to the season, fashion, 
and most suitable to his countenance. In the city of New 
York, as the Central Park has become the afternoon prome- 
nade of the beau monde, taking the place on this continent of 
the Champs Elysee, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens of 
Europe. Gentlemen who accompany ladies of refined taste 
and education, should not appear in office suits, but should 
assume a dress more conformable to the respect which they 
owe to the opposite sex. A blue, brown, fancy dark color, 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 47 

mixed or black frock coat, a silk or velvet vest, fancy 
cassimere pantaloons, would be appropriate. With this 
dress, varied according to the season, primrose, lavender 
and light fawn-colored gloves, are according to rule. 



48 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER VII 



THE RIDING- DRESS. 

A liorse, a horse, my kingdom for a horse ! 

Richard III. 

The riding dress for equestrian exercise differs in cut, 
color and material from that used for walking. The coat is 
usually cut away at the skirts, with cross pockets in the 
skirt and breast. The pantaloons or trowsers are occasion- 
ally differently formed, and so arranged as to be put within 
the high boots used on horseback. Overcoats and Oriental 
Khabans are of various kinds of fabrics and colors, according 
to the season ; the dress or closely-fitting habit being almost 
superseded, except for dress occasions, by the loose negliye 
garments of the period. 

The travelling dress, which may be classed with morning 
attire, should be of some of the various shades of brown, 
gray, or mingled fashionable colors, which do not show the 
dust, and when used, leave partial or no trace of travel about 
them. A light texture duster over-garment is commonly 
worn in travelling in summer. 

In the country, during the summer, the various thin fab- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 49 

rics of wool, which are made to be worn that season, are 
preferable, according to climate, to linen, being more health- 
ful, as well as more pleasing to the eye. In the fall or 
winter, the shooting dress should consist of a brown, grey 
or mixed-colored cloth, of a firm but elastic texture, with 
convenient and suitable pockets. The trowsers loose and 
full ; but it is an advantage to have them so made as to be 
during stormy weather, conveniently put within the Zouave 
gaiters or long boots. 
4 



50 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



THE HUNTING DRESS. 

Better to hunt in fields for health unbought, 
Than fee the doctor for a nauseous draught. 

Anon. 

Perhaps there is no costume in a gentleman's wardrobe 
that is more to be admired than that worn by the English 
hunter. Arrayed in a brilliant scarlet riding coat, buskin 
breeches, top boots, cap, spurs and whip, he presents a pic- 
ture of manliness, courage and joyous hilarity, which is de- 
lightful to behold. The incidents of the hunt are beauti- 
ful and exciting in the highest degree — the full pack of 
hounds in full pursuit, making the woods resound with the 
music and choruses of the chase. The sport is one that 
strengthens the man and invigorates the horse, and is rec- 
ognized as one of the most manly that gentlemen of true 
taste can enjoy. 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 51 



CHAPTER IX. 



DINNER DRESS AND ADDRESS. 

" The various cares in one great point combine, 
The business of their lives is — to dine." 

Young. 

In the family circle, and at our great and fashionable 
hotels, the full dress, which, a quarter of a century ago, was 
deemed indispensable where ladies appeared at table, has 
gradually given place to the demi-mode, dark frock coat, 
silk vest, dark pantaloons, black necktie, and plain white 
handkerchief. At all formal dinners, where invitations 
have been issued for some days previous to the event, the 
dress will differ but little from that of the ball room, one of 
the essential points of difference being, that the dress coat 
is indispensable while the white necktie is not. At 
many of our first-class hotels, individuals who claim to be 
considered fashionable appear among ladies at a late din- 
ner in motley colored coarse office suits, giving rise to the 
pardonable suspicion that they have no other clothes 
besides ; paying a very equivocal compliment to the fair 
sex, and setting a bad example to the rising generation, 



52 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

who are unfortunately too prone in their immaturity of 
judgment to show disrespect, imagining it a proof of inde- 
pendence. Officers in the Army and Navy are always 
expected to appear at dinner where there are ladies, in full 
dress uniform. Undress in the evening would be quite in- 
excusable in them. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 53 



CHAPTER X. 



" Come to our fete, and bring with thee 
Thy newest, best embroidery. 
Come to our fete, and show again 
That sky-blue coat, thou pink of men, 
Which charmed all eyes, who last surveyed it, 
And Brummel's self inquired, ' Who made it ?' " 

Evening Full Dress 

Has always consisted of the most elegant and appropriate 
costume the taste of the epoch could devise. In ancient 
times, restrictions of color and materials were unknown, 
and so continue in the civil costume, in the court circles of 
the European sovereigns. Black and blue coats have, how- 
ever, superseded all others in the best society. Forty years 
ago, small clothes and silk stockings, or light-colored panta- 
loons, were invariably worn ; since that time the black trou- 
sers or pantaloons has superseded all other dress in that par- 
ticular. 

The celebrated "golden ball" introduced black velvet 
suits, with steel buttons and wrist ruffles. This fashion 
lasted from 1819 to 1822, when it yielded to various shades 
of a rich purple or brown, with steel buttons, which in their 



54 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

turn, in a few years, subsided into the present fashion. The 
evening dress, universally adopted by the fashionable world, 
is as follows : A black or blue fine cloth dress-coat, lined 
with black silk, plain or watered pattern, the blue coat 
having gold or gilt buttons ; with the black coat, a cut or 
figured velvet, plain or figured silk or satin, or white silk, 
satin or cassimere vest; with the blue coat, buff cassi mere, 
white Marseilles, plain or figured silk vest is appropriate ; 
black cassimere pantaloons, dress boots or shoes, with lace 
hose, white oriental tinted neckcloth, and white shade kid 
gloves, are indispensable in the ball-room. In opera cos- 
tumes, a black neck-tie, lemon or light buff gloves, may be 
worn, more particularly where the gentleman does not ac- 
company ladies. In evening costume, the cambric handker- 
chief should be purely white. The shirt front should be of 
the finest material, but those to whom is conceded the first 
place, for good taste and fashion, eschew all other orna- 
ments to it other than the fine stitch or embroidery. Studs, 
brilliants or pearls, are not unfashionable. As to the use 
of jewelry, it is difficult to decide how far its adoption is 
within good taste, but all ostentatious display should be stu- 
diously avoided. 

The man of fine breeding is anxious to avoid any display 
that could be deemed vulgar, from which charge the mere 
costliness of the jewel could not relieve him, whilst a gem 
of art displays a taste and refinement of judgment that the 
vulgar can never rival. In all our endeavors to please, by 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDKESS. 55 

our appearance and dress, the adaptation of our costume to 
peculiarities of form becomes the first consideration, and to 
all men of sense, the praise conveyed in the small sentence, 
" He is a well-dressed man," is a compliment to his judgment, 
instinct of taste and propriety, that the philosopher need 
not despise. 

It is to be hoped that the beautiful blue coat, and gold 
or gold gilt buttons, with the buff vest, for evening costume, 
will be restored as the dress of Americans — colors so emble- 
matic of those under which the independence of our coun- 
try was won. 



56 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER XL 



CLERICAL DRESS. 

Avoid thee, fiend, with cruel hand, 
Shake not the dying sinner's sand ; 
Oh ! look, my son, upon yon sign, 
Of thy Redeemer's grace divine, 
Oh ! think on faith and bliss. — SCOTT. 

A special dress for the clergy has been, until within the 
last forty years, universal. In France, Italy, Spain, Canada, 
and America, including other countries, the Catholic 
clergy wear the ancient clerical costume of the sutan and 
cassock, with black bands, occasionally edged with white, as 
their ordinary dress. In the United States, with the excep- 
tions, the custom does not prevail, and they are only distin- 
guished from the civilians by a black frock coat, with a 
standing collar. The ministers of the Episcopal Church 
used to dress in a straight cut coat, vest buttoning up to the 
throat, made of thick corded black silk, white neck-cloth, 
small clothes and black silk stockings, or long black gaiters. 
The hat was looped up at the sides, leaving the brim wider 
in front than at the back ; and if the wearer belonged to the 
dignity of a D.D., a silk ribbon noose was placed on the hat- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 57 

band in front. Added to this dress, bishops and deans wore 
silk aprons. The ministers of the various denominations 
have been particular in their dress, except the Quakers and 
the Methodists, who have been remarkable for their plain- 
ness. The vestments of the Catholic clergy never vary, and 
need no immediate description here. Of the Episcopal 
Church, the black silk gown, the cassock, the surplice and 
the hoods and scarfs can scarcely be said to have any uni- 
formity, varying in some particulars in different diocese. 

The clergy should be known by their habitual dress, which 
should be of black, and uniform in its character. A black 
single breasted frock coat, reaching to the knees, with stand- 
ing collar, black cassimere pantaloons or trowsers, plain 
black or corded silk vest, cut in the old ecclesiastical style, 
would form a becoming and appropriate costume. The 
Bishops might be distinguished by a nearer approach to the 
court-shaped coat. The Catholic clergy might resume the 
ancient sutan, as in most other nations of the world. This 
dress is both dignified and graceful; it fits the form to 
the waist ; hence it is full and reaches to the ancle, and is 
buttoned from the throat to the end of the skirt, by a row 
of closely set buttons. 



58 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER XII. 



"Freedom of the press, freedom of person under the protection of 
habeas corpus, and trial by juries impartially selected." — Jefferson. 

JUDICIAL DRESS. 

"In the hands of men truly great, the pen is mightier 
than the sword." We say that the shears are more powerful 
than either, or both, because the shears conquer woman, 
and woman is the mother of all mankind. 

"Washington was anxious to retain the old judicial dress, 
that has come to us from the mother country. Some of his 
coadjutors opposed this, upon the ground that the robe did 
not constitute the man a better or more faithful judge. 
Washington replied: " Nor does the uniform make a soldier, 
but it is a distinction of which the soldier is honestly 
proud ;" and he prevailed in keeping the black silk gown 
and black court suit, as the official costume of the judges 
of the United States Supreme Court. We see, without dis- 
sent, the clergy of various denominations wearing the cleri- 
cal gown and bands. We almost enforce black as the cleri- 
cal garb, and yet we tolerate any colored dress in our su- 
preme and superior courts of law. Formerly the New York 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 59 

sheriff wore a sword and cockade. Later, all the sheriffs, 
and deputy sheriffs, upon the occasion of the execution of 
criminals, wear a solid gold badge and locust baton. The 
United States marshals, and others, a badge as the emblem 
of his authority. Then why should not our legal function- 
aries wear that distinctive garb, which all other civilized 
nations have adopted, and preserved to this day? If the 
judges of the higher tribunals dressed in black suits, with 
silk robes of the same color, it would certainly add to their 
appearance and dignity, and be a badge to their high office, 
which is now needed. 



60 FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



" Stores of learning bring we home, 
Brought from school and college." 
" Make we them a heaven on earth." — Heber. 

COLLEGIATE DRESS 

Was universal in the colleges before the revolution. Co- 
lumbia College, in New York, and Harvard, in Cambridge, 
Mass., are some of the places which have preserved the cus- 
tom, and this only in a limited degree. At the commence- 
ments, the uncler-graduates of Columbia College wear the 
black silk collegiate gown, and the Oxford cap. At Har- 
vard, the gown alone is worn, but its use is optional with 
the students. In Canada, until lately, the full collegiate cos- 
tume was worn at the three universities, the same as in those 
of Europe. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 61 



CHAPTER XIV. 



EUEOPEAN AND AMEEICAN WEDDING DEESS. 

Oil, come ye in peace, or come ye in war, 

Or to dance at our bridal, young Lord Lochinvar ? 

The bride kissed the goblet, the knight took it up, 

He quaffed off the wine and threw down the cup. 

He took her soft hand ere her mother could bar ; 

"Now tread we a measure," quoth young Lochinvar. — Scott. 

As it is to be hoped that the great event of matrimony 
will form but one epoch in a man's life, so ought it to be 
correspondingly joyful and celebrated. The gayest costume 
has been adopted by both sexes in all nations for the cele- 
bration of a wedding, while those who acted the principal 
role have used as much white as could be introduced into 
the wedding habits. At the present day, the man of taste and 
fashion wears the following wedding dress: a blue dress 
coat, sometimes lined with white watered silk, with fancy 
gold or gold gilt buttons, a white figured satin or silk vest, 
cream colored fine cassimere pantaloons, fine white silk or 
lace hose, and full dress thin shoes in summer and dress 
boots in th e winter, white kid gloves, and white plain hand- 
kerchief. All the first-class nobility of Europe are thus 
dressed on this important occasion, at a wedding. In all but 



62 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

the Northern States of our Union, a dislike, almost amount- 
ing to a horror, of black for the dress of the bridegroom seems 
to pervade elite society, and if the appropriately emblematic 
be good taste, nothing could be more fitting for the event 
than the dress quoted above — blue, the color of hope, and 
white, the emblem of purity and truth. The groomsmen 
should be dressed as nearly as possible in the same style. 
Black, at least, should not be worn. If in the summer, blue 
dress coat with gold or gilt buttons, white Marseilles vest, 
white satin or jean pantaloons with shoes or light dress boots, 
would be appropriate and complimentary to the occasion. 
The same dress with black cassimere pantaloons in the fall 
or winter would be in good taste. 

" Music arose with its voluptuous swell, 

Soft eyes looked love to eyes which spake again, 

And all went merry as a marriage bell." — Byron. 

American Wedding Dress. — The bridegroom usually 
wears a very fine black cloth (blue nevertheless recom- 
mended), dress body coat lined with white silk or black 
satin, according to the taste of the wearer; white figured 
silk or satin dress vest, fine black dress cassimere pantaloons, 
(occasionally pearl drab pantaloons are worn,) white kid 
gloves, plain white lawn, figured silk or satin necktie, patent 
leather boots, all made in the height of fashion. It is usual 
for from one to six groomsmen to be in attendance, all 
dressed precisely the same as the bridegroom, distinguished 
by wearing a white rosette bordered with gold or ribbon on 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 63 

the breast of the coat. Where the lady has a father and mo- 
ther, the father accompanies her to church, the bridegroom 
escorting the mother of the bride. The bridesmaids and 
groomsmen follow immediately in the rear, first, second, 
third and fourth (in couples) or as the case may be. In the 
absence of the father, some near male relative gives the bride 
away. On entering the church the bridegroom joins the 
bride, she leaning on his left arm, the bridesmaids and 
groomsmen next. The father and mother of the bride, or the 
friend who gives away the bride follow immediately after 
they advance to where the clergyman is standing, the first 
bridesmaid taking her position in line to the left of the bride. 
The first groomsman proceeds to the right of the bridegroom, 
and so on until all are in line with the bride and bridegroom. 
Either at church or in the parlor, the ceremony is the same. 
When the ring is used, it is the duty of the first bridesmaid 
to remove the glove from the left hand of the bride, and 
hold the same until the ceremony of placing the ring is 
completed by the minister. After the benediction is pro- 
nounced, the bridegroom immediately salutes the bride. The 
entire party retire in the same manner in which they came. 
If there is a reception at the house, congratulations are 
not to be offered in the church, excepting by the clergy- 
man. The friends reserve their compliments until the bridal 
party arrive at home. It is then the immediate duty of 
groomsmen in attendance to meet the guests as they arrive, 
introducing each by name to the bride and bridegroom. 



64 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

The friends so calling upon the bride should, bring with 
them their own visiting cards and hand the same when met 
by the groomsmen. The cards are afterwards placed upon 
the receiver, so that the bride and bridegroom can see whom 
to call upon in return. When the wedding takes place at 
the house it is the duty of the groomsman to send a carriage 
for the officiating clergyman, accompanied by one of the 
groomsmen or a near friend duly authorized to act in his 
stead. This is the proper time to hand the clergymen his 
fee, sealed in an envelope or placed in a suitable purse. 
The amount of the fee is invariably left to the generosity 
of the bridegroom, according to the circumstances. It is 
not unusual for an additional offering to be given to the cler- 
gyman by the father of the bride. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 65 



CHAPTER XV. 



LIVERIES. 

" Verily, I swear 'tis better to be lowly born, 
And range with humble livers in content, 
Than to be perked up in glistering grief, 
And wear a golden sorrow." — King Henry VIII. 

" Apparel them all in one livery." 

— King Henry VI., Part II. 

The custom of dressing retainers and domestics in the liv- 
ery of the family they serve is of great antiquity. The Ve- 
netian patricians did so as early as the year 980. The adop- 
tion of coats of arms was the occasion of the custom, which 
was brought into England by the Normans in 1080. The 
coat that covered the armor was emblazoned with the ar- 
morial bearings of the wearer, and as the vizor of his helmit 
covered his face, and armor was usually made of one pat- 
tern, this was the only means by which his followers could 
distinguish their leader from the other knights fighting with 
him. The livery consisted of the principal color and metal 
of the arms, and usually floated in the streamers in the back 
of the helmet of the chief. Thus in the arms of the family 
of Hamilton, the ground is red with three white cinque upon 



66 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

it. The streamers were consequently white and red, and 
such is the livery of that ancient family to this day. The 
arms of the Campbells of Argyle are a gyrony of eight pieces, 
gold and black; the streamers are of the same, and the 
livery chocolate (which liveries take the place of black) 
turned up with yellow. The footman of the Hamiltons 
wears a court shaped white coat, collar and lining of scarlet, 
with silver buttons having the crest or arms upon them, red 
vest, and small clothes, white stockings and shoes with sil- 
ver buckles. The coat of the coachman is of the frock shape, 
that of the grooms the same, only shorter ; the coachman's 
dress in all but the coat is the same as the footman's ; the 
grooms wear top boots and leather small clothes. In the 
United States, a simple livery has prevailed, more resembling 
the morning or undress livery of the noble families of Europe, 
such as a drab, gray, green medley or blue coat with the liv- 
ery buttons ; a vest with the color of the arms. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 67 



CHAPTER XVI 



FUNERAL DRESS. 

" The solitary, silent, solemn scene, 

Where Caesars, heroes, peasants lie 

Blended in dust together ; where the insulting proud 

Resigns his power, the miser drops his hoard, 

Where human folly sleeps." — Dyer . 

Upon this occasion, full mourning must be worn by the 
near relatives of the deceased. This consists of a black 
dress coat, cassimere vest, and pantaloons of the same color. 
At the funeral formerly, the costume was a black silk band, 
with large ends, around the hat, and a scarf of the same ma- 
terial, across the right shoulder, the ends on the left side 
tied with ribbon ; the more distant relatives and friends of 
the deceased had the scarf of lute-string silk. If the de- 
ceased was young and unmarried, the hat bands and scarfs 
were of white lawn, or linen ; the weed or crape on the hat 
worn by a widower reached within an inch and a half of the 
top of the hat ; for a parent, the depth of the hat band being 
somewhat less, the other relatives remaining in mourning 
lor three months ; the handkerchief is bordered with purple 
or black ; the gloves in undress are black, purple or slate 



68 FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 

color, and in full dress, pearl gray or lavender, sewed with 
black. 

Mourning should be worn, as we are told by a professed 
authority, 

" For a husband or wife, from one to two years, though 
some widows retain mourning for life. 

" For a parent or grandparent, from six months to a year. 

" For children above ten years of age, from six months to 
a year ; for those below that age, from three to six months ; 
for an infant, six or seven weeks. 

"For brothers and sisters, six to eight months. 

"For cousins, or uncles, or aunts, related by marriage, 
from six weeks to three months. 

" For more distant relatives ®r friends, from three weeks 
to as many months, according to the degree of intimacy." 

" The servants are ordinarily put, in mourning, by those 
who can afford it, on the death of an important member of 
the family. The nurse only in the case of the death of 
young children." 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 69 



CH AFTER XVII. 



THE CODE OF FASHIONABLE INTERCOURSE. 

" Let's do it after the Roman fasliion." — Asthony and Cleopatra. 
" Oil ! visionary as the airy dagger of Macbeth, yet absolute as the 
law of the Medes, is this omniscient goddess of our netlier world — this 
insuperable ruler of our destinies — Fashion." 

When a great French wit and philosopher was asked 
what constituted a true gentleman, he replied: "He who 
has the most easy and graceful manner of unostentatiously 
demonstrating a good heart." In this sentence is summed up 
all that society calls upon her children to observe towards 
each other, and all its rules of government are but manifes- 
tations of this one great principle. He who derives not 
pleasure from the happiness of those about him, is no true 
gentleman, nor is it possible for a gentleman to be regardless 
of the feelings of those with whom he associates. It thus 
appears that the " primum mobile " of the well-bred man of 
fashion is the hope of his own rights being respected in re- 
turn for the respect shown to the rights of others. It is 
easier to go happy through the world than is generally cred- 
ited ; and selfishness, egotism and self-conceited indulgence 



70 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

in youth, have proven the source of more mischief to indi- 
viduals, and pain to society, than the unthinking can con- 
ceive. In fact, good breeding and faultless gentleman-like 
demeanor are the offspring of a kindly heart. 

Shaftesbury once wrote that " the taste for beauty and the 
relish for what is decent, just and amiable, perfects the char- 
acter of the gentleman and the philosopher ; and the study 
of such a taste or relish will ever be the great employment 
and concern of him who covets as well to be wise and good 
as agreeable and polite." 

" In no country in the world are general good manners so 
indispensable as in this democratic country. In Europe, 
where, in society, as at the railway stations, different classes 
are recognized and kept apart by insurmountable barriers 
and vigilant guards, it is possible, if you happen to be 
among the high-bred " firsts," or decent "seconds," to endure 
the existence of the unruly " thirds." These last, in fact, 
when viewed at a convenient remoteness of distance, are not 
without their interest, 

" Their unkempt hair, blotched and greasy suits, rude 
manners, and coarse vernacular, are parts of the European 
picture, and by their homely manners, as well as the con- 
trast they afford to the brilliancy of their superiors, seem es- 
sential to its effects. To look at a rough and unwashed, 
from safe distance, of European social distinction, by which 
he is toned down to the picturesqueness of one of Murillo's 
lousy beggar boys, is one thing ; it is quite another, how- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDKESS. 71 

ever, to have him at your elbow on railway and at hotel 
where you can hear, feel, and smell him. It is obvious, 
therefore, that the rough and dirty are quite out of place in 
this country, where, if they exist, they are sure to be close 
at your side. Universal cleanliness and good manners are 
essential to a pure democracy. This must be generally rec- 
ognized and acted upon, or the refined will seek in other 
countries the exclusiveness which will secure for them that 
nicety of life essential to its enjoyment, and we shall be left 
alone, to wallow in our own brutality and foulness. 

" There is no reason why propriety of manners should not 
be as general in the United States, as it is exclusive in most 
countries. With our facility of mixture, any leaven we 
have can be easily made to pervade the whole mass. 
There is no vested right, in this country at least, in decency 
and cleanliness. We can all be, if we please, what we are 
so fond of calling ourselves, gentlemen and ladies." — Booh of 
Decorum. 

The gentleman, par excellence, enters society with the de- 
sire to please and be pleased ; in fact to pay in kind the 
gratification he seeks. A code of implied rather than 
written laws, have by universal consent of the fashionable 
world of all nations, been formed to carry out its intentions. 
An especial aptitude for application of these laws seems, to 
the casual observer, to be of greater facility in some nations 
than others — hence we say he is as polite as a Frenchman, 
and when we hear an individual condemn politeness and 



<2 FASHION AND POLITE ADDKESS. 

good breeding in others, it may be taken as a self-accusa- 
tion on bis part of some habitual violation of good manners 
or equal justice. \The laws of good breeding may be aptly 
called, " The philosophy of social intercourse?} In this 
country, the better observances of society are too often en- 
croached upon by an' under-current of political or commer- 
cial influences, which are not apparent on their face, but 
which are immediately perceived when pointed out by the 
close observer. 

" The Americans have followed to some, though not to 
this absurd extent, the example of their trans- Atlantic 
relatives. We are by no means so reserved as they. Dem- 
ocratic friction has necessarily broken up and rubbed off a 
good deal of the original crustiness of our nature. Casual 
intercourse between strangers in America is much more 
free than in England. The American is as wanting, as the 
Englishman is abounding in reserve. The proper medium 
is between familiarity and resistance. In travelling, Eng- 
lish constraint is often fatal to the general ease and cheer- 
fulness, while American freedom is not seldom subversive 
of personal comfort. In the close proximity of a railway 
carriage, two persons can make themselves mutually agree- 
able, without any sacrifice of personal dignity, and it is cer- 
tainly their duty to do so. The concessions on all such 
occasions are, of course, to be considered temporary. They 
are drafts at sight on each other's courtesy, to be paid at 
date, and received as a final settlement, which bars all ulte- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 73 

rior clauses. The Americans generally are too indiscrim- 
inate in their introductions. They seldom allow two 
strangers to be together a moment without introducing 
them to each other. No presentations should be made 
without a regard to the mutual fitness and probable accept- 
ability of the acquaintanceship about to be formed." 

One of these influences may be seen in the indiscriminate 
introductions so commonly made, and which are intended 
by the introducer to be taken as future claims upon the 
acquaintance of his special friends. 

" Friendship is a plant the growth of every clime ; 
Happy is the man that can rear a few." 

This renders an introduction, leading to intercourse 
between friends, a matter of some difficulty, and 
causes great stress to be laid on the sincerity 
of its intentions. The admitted laws of the best 
society governing the introduction of one gentleman to 
another, are simple : The mutual friend asks the older or 
more influential of those to be brought together, if he has 

any objection to be introduced to Mr. . and if both 

assent, then the introduction takes place. It may happen 
that without this mode of proceeding, great embarrassment- 
may be produced. Upon entering a drawing-room, all per- 
sonal resentments against those you may find there must 
cease. Every true gentleman owes it to society not to 
bring his quarrels to disturb the peace of those who have 
never offended him. The accomplished gentleman never 



74 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

makes personal or invidious remarks upon any one in 
the company in which, he may find himself. All who hear 
such remarks are displeased, and naturally imagine that 
their turn to be censured or ridiculed may come next. 

Every person meeting at the house of a mutual friend, is 
upon an equality with those present, and has a right to 
address an} r member of the company without an introduc- 
tion. When they have quitted the house, there exists no 
right of acquaintance, without a formal introduction by 
mutual consent. 

Upon entering a drawing-room, the invited guest seeks 
the lady of the house, and bows to her. At assemblies, 
balls, and large parties, it is not incumbent on him to take 
leave of her upon his departure, but after a dinner party a 
bow is made to the host and hostess on taking leave of 
them. The day after the party, it is etiquette to pay the 
compliment of leaving your card at the house of your 
entertainer. 

Never offer your hand to a lady. It is her place to offer 
hers to you, if the intimacy will warrant it, aud if she 
should not do so, you must not think yourself slighted. It 
is probably an option on her part, upon which she is sole 
judge. At a dinner party, the guest conducts to the table 
such lady as the host introduces him to. He hands her to a 
chair, and takes a seat beside and to the left of her. Some 
tact is required by an entertainer to bring those together 
who will be congenial to each other, for upon such a cir- 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 75 

cumstance depends the happiness of those present, and the 
success of the entertainment. Where there are several 
strangers at table, the commencement of the conversation is 
necessarily much restrained. Some pleasant anecdote or 
witty remark, free from all personal reflections, produces a 
smile, and banishes reserve, and enables the host, with a 
little tact, to put conversation into a channel that will make 
the entertainment a true feast. Never become a lecturer at 
the dinner table ; never talk of yourself, nor let your anec- 
dotes be personal ; lead the conversation into subjects that, 
if all cannot converse upon, they may at least all feel an 
interest in. Politics, religion, or any subject that might 
produce acrimony of feeling, all personal references to pri- 
vate individuals, their dress, manners, eccentricities, or 
deficiencies, are repugnant to good breeding, and betray an 
ignorance of the best society, as well as a paucity of judg 
ment and kindness of heart in the author. You have no 
right to constitute yourself the censor morum and corrector 
of the violations of strict decorum in society. The polished 
gentleman will show his distaste for unpalatable comments 
or satirical remarks, by making no reply to them, and turn- 
ing the conversation to some more appropriate theme. 
This he should do without look or gesture, implying a 
rebuke to the person with whom he was conversing. The 
gentleman who is known always to act as above stated, soon 
relieves himself from being the recipient of scandal, and this 
even without losing the respect of him whom he so delicately 



76 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

rebukes. He or she who tells you a scandalous tale, pays 
} t ou the equivocal compliment of believing that your own 
conscience needs to be flattered by a comparison with the 
faults of your friends to quiet its own accusations. Conver- 
sational powers are not given alike to all, and it must be 
remembered that good and appreciative listeners are admir- 
able adjuncts to those who have the art of entertaining a 
party. A little tact and observation will give a facility in 
bringing out the mines of wit and joyous humor in many, 
who, without a fostering care, would remain hidden from 
society. As the true gentleman purchases his rank by his 
acknowledgment of and deference to the rights of others, so 
should he, however witty and well-informed, not usurp 
more than his fair share of the conversation. If some at 
table are particularly dull, or their attempts at wit fail of 
achieving success, his resumption of the conversation is a 
paid compliment of a higher appreciation of the preceding 
example. If a guest is particularly amusing, do not praise 
him by any compliment to his talent or powers, nor thank 
him for the entertainment he has afforded ; it is both ill- 
bred and unnecessary to do so. The pleasure and reward 
awarded to such a person has been amply repaid by the 
gratification which he has been able to contribute to those 
around him. The man of refinement shrinks from being 
looked upon as a professional jester. 

Let your attention at table be equally shown to all near 
you. particularly to the ladies. Learn to carve well, and 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 77 

know the delicate parts of game and fowl, that you may 
be able to distribute them amongst as many of your guests 
as possible ; this is necessary, for, although all may not be 
able to appreciate them, yet none are insensible to the com- 
pliment which the attention displays as a mark of personal 
consideration. However good a jest, or witty a story may 
be, if it ever, in the remotest degree, brings ridicule upon 
religion, it should be by all means avoided. Such jokes are 
most unbecoming for a gentleman ; they wound the feelings 
of the good, and are fraught with danger to the young and 
thoughtless. Your deportment at table cannot be wrong- 
when you keep in mind the duties which you owe to those 
around you. It would be condescension to assume that the 
children of respectable parents should be informed why they 
should not use their own knives to cut the food which others 
are to eat ; to eat with the knife instead of the fork, to take 
the delicacies at the table to the exclusion of others, and 
similar gaucheries / for to such, the end of becoming orna- 
ments to society is all but impossible. In your attentions to 
others, ostentation is always vulgar ; let your acts be spon- 
taneous, and the rights and happiness of those around you 
the inspiring cause. Offer the best to those at your table, 
but never press them to take anything which they have once 
declined ; your own taste is not that of your guest in every 
particular. If you offer wine to one who declares that " he 
tastes no intoxicating drinks," do not presume to term his 
abstinence a folly, for in nine cases out of ten it is fortunate 



78 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

lor his friends and himself that he has made such a resolu- 
tion. Be most- cautious never to quote yourself as an 
example of superior morals. People will always think of 
F6nelon's maxim, " That no man is so tenacious of his 
possessions as he who has a doubt as to his right to them." 
The custom of inviting persons to drink wine with you has 
partially gone out of fashion. Indeed it was necessary to 
protect the host, but if you be asked by one who does not 
know the fact, do not refuse. You need do no more than put 
the glass to your lips. There is nothing more vulgar in 
society, than doubting the facts related in a jest, or anecdote, 
or any attempt at correcting the narrator in any part of the 
story, or declaring it to be old and well known. You have 
not with you the sympathy of the party, and it is a well- 
known fact that these marplots seldom add anything to the 
pleasures of social intercourse. Do not make a laughing- 
stock of any one in the company, however ridiculous he may 
appear. The only rebuke allowable to a bore, is to let his 
dulness pass without attention, ' and the most inveterate 
dullard looses courage when he finds himself without listen- 
ers. Never press any one to relate a story or witticism, or 
sing, and if asked yourself, you should speedily conclude if 
it would be acceptable, or otherwise, and decide accordingly. 
Ask no one to sing or speak whom you know to be incom- 
petent. No gentleman inflicts pain upon society by giving 
annoyance to one of its members. Never solicit the opinions 
of those present upon the singing, or playing abilities of one 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDBESS. 79 

who lias been solicited to entertain the company, and always 
remember, that if he was not perfect in his efforts, he had 
shown a disposition in endeavoring to please. Be cautions 
only to laugh and applaud in the right place. Do not inter- 
rupt another while speaking ; if your friend be prosy, let 
him serve as an example to be avoided. 



SO FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



In the drawing-room the conversation will be broken into 
coteries, and you will have the opportunity of selecting that 
most congenial to your taste. If a lady is led to the piano- 
forte to sing or play, listen to her, at least, in silence, and 
remember that if the execution fall below your standard, 
the longest cantata or concerto never lasted over five minutes, 
and cheerfully sacrifice that brief period. Never join in 
pressing the timid or reluctant to sing. If you succeed, you 
will seldom be repaid for your trouble ; for confidence is so 
necessary to success, that without it, talent sinks into 
mediocrity ; besides, it is unkind to inflict pain on a nervous 
temperament. If you have not a good knowledge of the fine 
arts, do not assume a critical and favorable judgment of the 
works of your host or hostess. It may elicit a severe criticism 
from those better informed, to the pain of those whom you 
thought to please. If you wish to praise, simply say it 
pleases you ; this leaves your taste and not the work to be 
questioned. If the conversation in the drawing-room be 
upon literary subjects, never dogmatize nor make your 
praise or blame suggestive, and let your observations be as 
brief as circumstances will allow. If you are not prepared 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 81 

to speak from experience upon the topic under discussion, 
elicit information by suggestion to those better informed. 
By this plan, judiciously carried out, great and profitable 
pleasure may be elicited. Never stigmatize as useless the- 
studies and pursuits of any man, but remember that they 
who are best informed, obtain their knowledge from the- 
many toiling intellects which have been engaged for a life 
upon special studies. The well-informed gentleman will 
never raise a discussion in society that could excite heated 
arguments. His suggestions should alone lead to eliciting 
the truth upon scientific and literary matters. Upon all 
subjects in which the faculties of observation are called 
forth, the fair sex have a great advantage over the other, as 
they have also in affairs of the heart. A moderately well- 
informed lady is, therefore, far in advance of gentlemen up- 
on these subjects, and much may be learned from her. In 
the reflective faculties man is generally in advance of 
woman. If gentlemen of mind would mildly discourage 
the propensity of young ladies to make dress and the pecu- 
liarities of their acquaintances their drawing-room conver- 
sation, they would prefer silence to losing the respect of the 
other sex ; few men of sense choose a foolish wife, and as 
few would refuse a discreetly silent and amiable one. 
6 



82 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



THE BALL-ROOM DRESS AND ADDRESS. 

"On with tlie dance, let joy be unconfined, 
No sleep till morn, when youth and pleasure meet, 
To chase the glowing hours, with flying feet." — Byron. 

Many of the foregoing remarks are as applicable to the 
ball-room as the drawing-room. There, also, conversation 
is in parties, and, at intervals, between the gentleman and 
his partner. If a lady exhibits great vanity, the impulse to 
compliment her is almost irresistible, but it should be 
avoided ; you should endeavor to lead the conversation 
into other channels, incidental to the occasion, — the drama, 
the opera, music, etc. When a gentleman seeks to be in- 
troduced to a lady for the purpose of dancing with her, she 
may, without offence to him, refuse the mediation of his 
friend in the matter. If a gentleman, who is casually 
acquainted with a lady, ask her. to dance and she declines, 
he would understand that some affair of the heart stands in 
the way, and he affably assents to her wishes. If a lady 
should forget an engagement she had made and should ac- 
cept another gentleman, and if he should not relinquish her 
hand upon an intimation of the fact, as he is bound to do, 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 83 

the man of true gentlemanly feeling yields with grace, and 
seeks the cause of the mistake in order to divest her of her 
embarrassment. In fact every gentleman is bound to avoid 
scenes in public, and they who sacrifice the comfort of a 
lady to their resentments in an assembly, should be avoided 
by both sexes. Never address a young lady as "Miss" 
without her Christian or surname added ; it is a footman's 
politeness. Madam is applicable to both single and married 
ladies, but if you do not know the name, inform yourself 
before you address her. A gentleman should not ask a 
lady to dance with him several times in the same evening ; 
it is embarrassing to her and her friends. To ask a lady 
twice is as much as a considerate gentleman should do. If 
a gentleman is paying attention to a lady, and is not en- 
gaged to her, he would not be justified in engrossing her 
whole attention in the ball-room ; it holds her up to painful 
observation, and renders her liable to invidious remarks, if 
no engagement follows, and places him in the odious light 
of a male flirt. After dancing with a lady, conduct her to 
a seat near her family or chaperone, and leave her with a 
bow when her hand is claimed for the succeeding dance. 
Never dance with a lady without light kid gloves ; never 
swing your partner round in the dance, nor be guilty of any 
other breach of etiquette, that will subject her to imperti- 
nent remarks, or make her conspicuous. If much pleased 
with a lady, you may ask her mother's permission to call 
upon her the following day. If she reply, " We are seldom 



84 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

at home," or any other observation that does not imply con- 
sent, there the acquaintance must cease, a polite refusal 
being implied. In handing a lady to her carriage, bow to 
her immediately as she enters ; to detain her in conversa- 
tion, or any time exposed to the air, after leaving a heated 
ball-room, might endanger her health. 

" Welcome the coming- and hasten the departing guest." 
" Genteel in personage, 
Conduct and equipage." — Cakey. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 85 



CHAPTER XX. 



THE PROMENADE DRESS. 

"Awkward, embarrassed, stiff, without the" skill 
Of moving gracefully, or standing still ; 
One leg as if suspicious of his brother, ■ 
Desirous seems to run away from t'other." — Churchill. 

When ladies are walking alone, unless they be near 
relatives or intimate friends, the recognition must come first 
from them to the gentleman. If they dp not recognize him 
he has no cause for offence ; it is a right which he cannot 
call in question. If ladies are with a father or brother, 
then they are visible to all who know them, and may be 
addressed. "When accompanying ladies in a promenade, it 
is not the custom to offer to them your arm in the United 
States, although the reverse is the fashion throughout 
Europe ; and a lady walking by your side without your 
arm, would give great offence to her friends, and be deemed 
an unpardonable omission. In assisting a lady into her 
carriage, you offer her your right arm, and necessarily dis- 
engage her skirts from any little impediment. 



86 ■ FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

In walking with a lady through the streets, place her on 
the inside of the walk to protect her from annoyance ; gen- 
tlemen walking with ladies should not observe any little in- 
solence that may occur that would subject her to annoying 
observation. They may be grateful for your energy and 
courage, but will avoid trusting themselves with you a 
second time. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 8.7 



CHAPTER XXL 



THE ETIQUETTE OF CARRIAGE AND EQUESTRIAN EXER- 
CISES. 

" But Coach ! Coach ! Coach ! 
Oh, for a coach, ye gods ! " — Carey. 

' " He does allot for every exercise 

A sev'ral hour, for sloth, the nurse of vicas 

And rust of action, is a stranger to him." — Massinger. 

The gentleman having handed the lady into the carriage 
in the manner before mentioned, places her farthest from 
the open door, and seats himself beside her ; if there are 
two ladies, he sits opposite to them, giving them the rear 
seats. In accompanying a lady on horseback, some little 
skill is necessary in assisting her in seating herself grace- 
fully and conveniently in her saddle. The lady having dis- 
engaged her feet from the riding-habit, takes the reins in 
her right hand, holding her robes in the left. She puts her' 
hand upon the shoulder of the horse, and, slightly raising 
the left foot, the gentleman gently assists her to vault into' 
the saddle. As soon as she has arranged her position upon 
the saddle, the gentleman places the stirrup upon the left 
foot, and then arranges her drapery, -in windy weather, 



88 FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 

fastening it under her feet, with a shawl pin. Some taste 
and tact are required in doing this last service, so as to 
leave the skirt free and graceful. In dismounting, you take 
the broach from the skirt and release the left foot from be- 
ing encumbered by the habit. The lady disengages herself 
from the pomel of the saddle, and, standing in the stirrup, 
the gentleman takes her by the waist with both hands, and 
whilst she makes her skirts shorter, assists her to reach the 
ground. Whilst riding with a lady, place her horse on your 
right ; it is easier for her to converse with you on that side 
than on the other. Always accommodate the pace of your 
horse to that of the lady's ; if, however, you are riding by a 
line of carriages, you must place your fair charge farthest 
from the vehicles. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 89 



CHAPTER XXII. 



THE ETIQUETTE OF COURTSHIP AND MATRIMONY. 

" Oil, the days are gone when beauty bright my heart's chain wove, 
When the dream of life, from morn to night, was love, still love. 
Oh, flowers may bloom, and skies may gleam with purer, brighter beam, 
But there's nothing half so sweet in life as love's young dream." 

By all the laws of Society, a gentleman of true principles 
has a right to ascertain the physical and moral and mental 
qualifications of a young lady, before he commits himself to 
a courtship, from which an honorable man finds a difficulty 
in disengaging himseif. The course a true gentleman should 
pursue under such circumstances, is to observe the respect 
and attention due to the lady and her family. We are 
bound not to permit an innocent and unsuspecting girl to 
remain one day without parental advice and protection in 
this most trying epoch in her life. So soon as a gentleman 
feels that the sentiment a young lady has inspired in him 
may lead to an ultimate union, he should make known his 
wishes to her father, and ask if his attentions meet with the 
approval of her parents. This is necessary upon two 
grounds ; it is due to them, and will prevent the pain of a 
refusal and consequent disappointment, which might occur 



90 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

at a more advanced period. In the United States the cus- 
toms attending courtships differ materially from those of 
Europe. For the actual happiness of both parties, the gen- 
tleman should not take the ladj out riding in.a carriage alone 
or on horseback, until an actual engagement has taken 
place. So long as fashion sanctions a young man in his at- 
tentions to the lady of his choice, he should observe that 
punctilious demeanor towards her, as not to compromise her 
in society. Parents love their daughters dearly, that they 
fear as much to have their affections blighted, as they do to 
have their fame called in question. The educated and con- 
scientious gentleman of mature judgment, the high-toned 
man of honor, would never tempt an unsuspecting girl to 
elope with him ; in so doing, he risks his reputation, and 
their own happiness, while he gives the severest blow to 
that of her parents, who he must remember are entitled to 
her first confidence and his respect. The daughter may be 
forgiven after a lapse of time, but the act can never be j us- 
tified. 

The polite gentleman should be well assured that he pos- 
sesses the lady's love before he asks her band. If the lady 
refuse him, he should allow no resentment, however much 
his feelings may suffer. "Where so important and solemn a 
step as a fate for life is decided on, the lady should have 
the right of fall reflection, and if a doubt of ultimate happi- 
ness should cross her mind, she has a full justification, at 
the last hour, in declining the proffered hand. If the lady 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDEESS. 91 

be a flirt, trie gentleman may well rejoice, instead of griev- 
ing that he has avoided an unhappy union. 

If a gentleman of refinement really loves a lady, and deems 
her worthy of his love, he will never use words of endearment, 
or nauseous love-terms, towards her in society. After an 
engagement, each calling the other by the Christian name, 
is sufficient proof of mutual confidence and attachment ; be- 
sides, true and delicate love is as jealous of the expression 
of its affection as it is of its reciprocal truth. 

The purpose of this brief recapitulation of the code of 
fashionable intercourse is to show its moral and humanita- 
rian influences upon society, and that all good breeding is 
derived from the truest of all philosophical data. Our own 
happiness is secured by the promotion of the happiness of 
those with whom we are associated ; the toleration of the 
impulses and passions of our nature, and the deficiency of 
reason which at times should control them, have served to 
unsettle much of the grace and harmony of society. In a 
community of equal social and political rights, where the 
wily politician seeks, through the passions or prejudices of 
men, to ride into power upon the influence they create, a 
large amount of mischief must be occasioned by their unnat- 
ural excitement. Refined society should prove that the ex- 
ercise of wisdom, in restraining our passions within the cor- 
rect limits, constitutes the truest happiness, and to teach us 
that to ensure felicity, we must respect the rights of all, and 
share them in common. 



92 FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

The duty of the man of fashion, and of honor, is to curb 
these excitements, and to promote the influence of reason in 
society, so as to overcome all obstacles to its complete har- 
mony, thus proving incontestibly that a good heart and a 
love of honesty, equal justice and equal rights, are the only 
true foundations of real politeness and gentleman-like de- 
meanor, and thereby influencing a nation's happiness by the 
laws of fashion. 

Separate the knave from the honest man, the counterfeit 
from the genuine, by understood signs, private badges, num- 
bers and recognized recorded signals, credentials, distinguish- 
ing, in a word, the best from the worst species of mankind. 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS 93 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



THE CODE OF COMMERCIAL INTERCOURSE. 

" Factors in the trading world are what ambassadors are in the politi- 
cal world ; they negotiate affairs, conclude treaties, and maintain a good 
correspondence between those wealthy societies of men that are divided 
from one another by seas and oceans, or live on the different extremes of 
a continent." — Addison. 

The duty that man owes to society, whilst performing 
either the part of the seller or the buyer of any legitimate 
article of trade, is the subject we now propose to discuss. 
We use the words buyer and seller in their most comprehen- 
sive terms,including what are denominated the learned pro- 
fessions, as well as those which are generally considered in- 
ferior employments. In a word, comprehending all dealings 
between man and man, where value gives call for value re- 
ceived. 

The whole civilized world will admit as the test and stan- 
dard of that duty the great Christian maxim : "Do unto 
others as you would they should do unto you ;" that is, deal 
fairly, honestly, truthfully, and independently, without dis- 
simulation, prevarication, or subterfuge of any kind whatso- 
ever. Do no man a wrong or ungentlemanly act. 



94 FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

In the very constitution of society there is an absolute ne- 
cessity for the relations of buyer and seller, and we therefore 
find records of the fact throughout the pages of both sacred 
and profane history from tha earliest date. 

In those records we trace, on the one hand, the noble char- 
acter of those who, in the emphatic language of the Scrip- 
tures, deal justly; and, on the other, of those who delight 
in false weights and measures, and who, in the same impres- 
sive language, are said to be an abomination to the Lord. 
Honesty, then, may be considered as the main point in com- 
mercial intercourse. 

In reviewing the career of nations or individuals, we may 
trace almost all the ills which have befallen them to some 
dereliction from the plain and straight road of honesty, 
truthfulness and fair dealing. Corrupt policy, and an inor- 
dinate greed of gain among politicians, is almost invariably 
the cause of a nation's downfall, and the same remark holds 
good in the case of individuals. " He that gathereth by 
labor shall increase," we are told on the highest authority, 
not he who endeavors to obtain fortune by defrauding his 
neighbor. Labor, whether mental or physical, represents 
and possesses a certain standard value, and, if properly ap- 
plied, must at all times meet its reward. To achieve success 
on the road of life, we must set forth with the full under- 
standing that it is no easy task which lies before us. There 
are mountains of toil and trouble over which we have to 
climb, and deserts of uncertainty across which our weary 



FASHION" AND POLITE ADDKESS. 95 

feet must pass. But with honor and honesty set before us, 
as our golden rule and guiding star, we shall not fail to 
reach the haven of our heart's desire. Nor are there any 
branches of trade or professions which may be considered as 
too trivial or insignificant for this rule of guidance. The 
star of honor shines with equal brilliancy, whether displayed 
in the drawing-room, the camp, or in the counting-house, 
and if not receiving from our fellow-men the same loud and 
enthusiastic greeting, will not fail eventually to receive its 
just recognition. 

Pope beautifully expresses the character of the upright 
dealer in that celebrated line : 

" An honest man's the noblest work of God." 

And Burns, in one of his songs that has attained a world- 
wide celebrity, speaks of him as occupying a higher rank 
in the scale of Nature's nobility than could be conferred by 
the greatest of earthly potentates. 

" A king: can make a belted knight, 

A marquis, duke, and a' that, 
But an honest man's above his might, 

Gude faith he maunna fa' that ; 
For a' that and a' that, 

Their dignities and a' that, 
The pith of sense, the pride of worth, 

Are higher ranks for a' that." 

A distinguished philanthrophist, in a pamphlet issued on 
the Religion of Reason, commenting on the words : " There- 
fore, all things whatsoever ye would that men should do 



96 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

unto you, do you even so unto them," says : " It is honesty 
he enjoins in these words. It is true that to be honest, as 
the world goes, is to be one man found in one thousand." 
Yet, when met with, strict integrity always commands 
respect even in rogues. A man correctly understanding 
himself, is a fool to be dishonest. Though nearly all persons, 
with scarcely an exception, will agree to endorse the 
principles as above set forth, when particular cases are 
brought to their notice, there will be as many different opin- 
ions as exist in the mental and moral characteristics of the 
men. It is therefore necessary that we should define more 
strictly, in an introductory form, what all conceive to be the 
precise rule and standard of honesty 

This rule and this standard should actuate the individual 
man in all the relations of life. Take, for instance, the mis- 
sion of the clergy, the profession of a lawyer, a physician, 
the calling of a tradesman, and indeed any other occupation, 
whether mental, artistic, physical, or manual, where each 
one's peculiar talent is called into requisition. Let us now 
apply our test to their several employments. 

First, with the advocate or lawyer : we find that all in that 
profession, who, by the common consent of the Bar, are ad- 
mitted to hold the first rank, scarcely ever disagree in pecu- 
niary matters, because their talents enable them to judge 
correctly of the pecuniary value of the service of those 
engaged in their line of employment with the nicest precis- 
ion. They know the time and the money, the wearisome 






FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 97 

days and sleepless nights, the anxiety of mind that must 
necessarily have been expended in the acquisition of that 
knowledge which has been called into requisition, and which 
forms, if we may so express it, the foundation-stone of his 
capital. They can judge correctly the amount of industry, 
the continued mental application necessary to render that 
capital available ; the many days, months, and years, that 
have passed in perfecting that particular talent by which he 
has at length gained celebrity, whether as a skilful attorney, 
a special pleader, or a discreet counsellor. Knowing all this, 
they are enabled to form, and always do form, where their 
personal interests alone are concerned, a very correct idea of 
the value of such services as may have been required to be 
performed. This judgment, moreover, is rarely ever ques- 
tioned by him, who, with like facilities for forming an 
unbiassed opinion, has given his service without stipulating 
a price. It is upon this principle, in the courts of law and 
equity, where one advocate is supposed to have made ex- 
travagant charges for his counsel and advice, as well as in 
the management of the case, the judge or chancellor appoints 
some discreet, conscientious and honorable man learned in 
the profession of the law, to tax the bill of costs. 

Now, that which is done in this last resort, the honest ad- 
vocate will do in the first place : he will not take advantage 
of the simplicity or -kind-heartedness of his client, to filch 
from him that which he deliberately knows he has not fairly 
and honestly earned. Nor will he give his client an opinion 



98 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

that be knows to be legalty unsound, for the express purpose 
of creating a business for himself, thereby wasting not only 
the time of him who depended on him for honest advice, 
but loading him blind-folded, as it were, into a mass of 
expenses that may cause his ruin. If he does, then we must 
rank him as the pettifogger, the cheat, and the swindler, in 
very truth — as that person who, whenever he looks into a 
glass, beholds the resemblance of a dishonored and dishonor- 
able man. 

As with the lawyers, so with all other professions and 
trades ; the buyer and seller in their relative positions, con- 
sidering honest dealing a commandment ke;"t by the few, 
broken by the many, but revered by all. 

Thus briefly have we introduced a subject of the greatest 
importance. The limits of this work will not admit of a 
more extended consideration of the subject, and the author is 
forced to content himself with these introductory remarks. 

The foregoing pages are the result of the author's expe- 
rience, covering nearly half a century, in this and other 
countries, and are sincerely offered to his fellow-citizens, 
particularly to the young, who have not yet entered the 
arena to fight the battle of life, and as a debt of gratitude to 
the system and institutions which enabled him, after landing 
on these shores a poor emigrant, to obtain a position of re- 
spectability and usefulness in the community which he 
delights to Berve, and to promote whose interest it has been 
his honor to dedicate the best days in his life. " This great 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 99 

land, '-shadowing with wings,' is but just commencing to 
receive within its embrace the disfranchised millions of the- 
older systems escaping thence to us, on the East and on the 
West. Commingled tongues and many creeds are fusing 
amicably together in this great interior receptacle of Amer- 
ica, and the boy of to-day may live to see an empire arise 
from it strong enough to dictate the law of humanity to the 
world, and enlightened and noble enough in its policy to win 
the willing homage of all nations." 



100 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



THE RELATION OF THE BUYER AND THE SELLER. 

" Lord Stafford mines for coal and salt, 
The Duke of Norfolk deals in malt, 

The Douglass in red herrings; 
And noble name and cultured land, 
Palace and park and vassal band, 
Are powerless to the notes of hand 

Of Rothschild or the Barrings." — Halleck. 

u Napoleon L not inaptly called England a nation of 
shop-keepers." How far the great Emperor was right in his 
assertion, is, and will be, a disputed point, especially among 
Englishmen. The author of this work, for the present, de- 
clines the idea of offending, or defending, Mr. John Bull ; 
for in either case the result would be a thankless task in the 
realm of fashion and dress. The French Emperor might 
have continued the sentence by saying, "perfkle Albion" 
always takes care of number one, even at the expense of 
despoiling her more polite or weaker neighbors. Unfortu- 
nately for the happiness of the honest portion of mankind, 
the world contains at the present day too many individuals 
and nations, who, when tested by the scales of justice and im- 
partial opinion, are nothing more nor less than legalized 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 101 

thieves, despoiling the honest man's peace and happiness. 
Having endeavored to show, in some of the preceding pages, 
the world's commendation of the honest man, in contradis- 
tinction to the villains who deal in false representations, 
weights and measures, and who by the corruption of wealth 
are protected by unjust laws; — the former is the hydra- 
headed monster, which must first be struck down to the 
earth, with all mental and bodily powers. Class legislation 
in favor of the few, and to suit unprincipled politicians, mo- 
nopolists and others, in the mal-administration of existing 
good laws, are some of the many ills that the downtrodden, 
toiling masses are doomed to . bear in this and other coun- 
tries, until patriotic liberators, victorious heroes, shall arise; 
11 first in peace, the first in war, and the first in the hearts 
of their countrymen," who will wage eternal and exterminat- 
ing war against corruption and fraud in high and low places, 
by creating a powerful and invincible legion of patriots, cre- 
ating an honest man's party, to wield the power of the pen 
ill the first instance, or the sword as the last resort,* aided, if 
needs be, by good and patriotic people, assembling in their 
might, to use, as an auxiliary power, strong hemp rope, 
round the neck of incurable villains, who are false to the 
community ; a short shrift and a hoist, dangling the evil- 
doers in the air higher than Haman. 

* The pen is more powerful than the sword ; we say the shears are more powerful 
than either or both ; because the shears conquer woman, and woman is the mother of all 
mankind. What "will a virtuous woman give to cover her nakedness? What will a 
bad woman do for fine dress ? Answer 



102 FASHION" AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

History repeats itself, " that necessity knows no law," and 
especially when it is of common occurrence for the unprin- 
cipled political judges who disgrace themselves, to the injury 
of our common country, by unscrupulously soiling the er- 
mine of the judiciary, in allowing the worst species of crim- 
inals to go un whipped of justice. 

The reader will perceive by the foregoing remarks that 
the basis of all fair dealings commences at the root of impar- 
tial justice ; and, like a mighty tree, its ramifications on 
earth are so multifarious that few people thoroughly un- 
derstand the relative duties of each, as buyer and seller ; the 
commonly received opinion that the party who receives a 
commodity is under no obligation to the deliverer on mu- 
tual settlement, and vice versa, thus rendering all inter- 
changes in trade as entirely selfish, doing away with any 
friendly interest between each other. This mode of usage 
is entirely wrong ; in proof, when a buyer and a seller receive 
each their respective considerations, this is the time to offer 
commercial civilities bordering on those of a social charac- 
ter. What can be more unreasonable than to suppose that 
a conscientious dealer has no other motive in serving the 
buyer with his best commodities, including his best services, 
unless he was acting under the belief that he is gaining your 
future patronage and friendship? Similar motives and a 
sense of duty ought to actuate the buyer in all honorable 
dealings, thereby rendering interchange of commodities of 



FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 103 

an agreeable and sincere character, performed in the courte- 
sies that are usually practised in polite society. 

It is hardly possible in the limits of this volume to give 
an idea of the incalculable pecuniary loss for the want of a 
proper foresight on the part of the buyer in guarding his 
his own actions from being made the basis of success by an 
expert counterfeiting knave, who assumes the role of a con- 
scientious trader. The successful defrauder generally adopts 
the outside appearance and manner of business that well be- 
fits the high tone and character of the man of commercial 
integrity. He also too often finds any number of persons 
whom he can plunder, to a great or less extent, without using 
much wit or exertion in so doing, for the best of all reasons 
those victims are in the majority of cases previously pre- 
pared by the confidence of unwarrantable and inconsiderato 
practices adopted in commercial usages on the adage "you 
must first risk before you can gain." 

How common it is in commercial dealings, and corres- 
pondingly in the social circle, to hear of the successful ef- 
forts of swindlers of every type, ingratiating themselves into 
the trust and confidence of their too confiding victims. The 
dealer's inordinate greed of gaining substance or renown are 
the chief resources of the designing knave ; they are in very 
truth the deceiver's stock in trade ; his tools whose leverage 
power in countless numbers of instances being the means of 
robbing the dealer out of the sweat of his brow, and the so- 
cial circle out of many of their chief ornaments. 



104 FASHION AND POLITE ADDRESS. 

It may here be very properly asked, how can these losses 
and annoyances be in some way prevented, alleviated or 
avoided ? This, indeed, is a question not easily or satisfacto- 
rily answered. It is so difficult to solve that, notwithstand- 
ing the author of these pages has been actively engaged in 
commercial life, commencing in the Old World as an orphan 
boy at the age of thirteen, graduating through all ranks of com- 
merce and events, the observation of royalty and formulas of 
Eepublics, being for the last twenty odd years an adopted citi- 
zen of the United States of America, an agreeable exchange 
in lieu of my birth-right, a so-called British subject, the son 
of an Irish rebel, a gentleman of unsullied integrity, the lat- 
ter in arms against that odious tyrant, George the Third. 

The author, with a dear-bought commercial experience of 
over forty years, and not a stranger to the usages of well- 
regulated society, regrets his inability to correctly advise the 
unwary how to avoid the dark designs of the swindler, 
sharper, the thief, including deep-dyeel villains of every 
type. Even ancient and modern history is so far unequal 
to the task. Therefore, all that can reasonably be expected 
from the author is to show the beacon lights of cosmopoli- 
tan experience, and the war of life's battle against the 
world's curse ; an abomination of the Lord's — the dishonest 
man. 



SUPPLEMENT. 



SERIES FROM 



EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN AUTHORS, 

ON 

DRESS AND FASHION, ANCIENT AND MODEM. 



Fashions that are now called new 
Have been worn by more than yon : 
Elder times have used the same, 
Though these new ones get the name. 

MIDDLETOFS MAYOR OF QUEENSBOROUGH. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 107 



DRESS AND FASHION FROM ENGLISH AUTHORS. 

Dress, considered merely as a covering for the body, and 
as a means of promoting warmth, needs no explanation. In 
the early age, it was simple as the manners of the people who 
invented it. Leaves, feathers, and skins formed the clothing 
of our first parents. As civilization gradually spread over 
the world, and as the invention and genius of man found 
means to change a raw hide into leather, the wool of sheep 
into cloth, the web of a worm into silk, flax and cotton into 
linen ; to extract from herbs, flowers, woods, minerals, and 
insects, dyes and colors that vie with the rainbow in rich- 
ness and variety — they quitted the simple garments of their 
forefathers, and gradually gave themselves up to an almost 
incredible degree of luxury and extravagance in the adorn- 
ment of their persons. * So extensively and so rapidly did 
this passion for dress spread over the world, that edicts, laws, 
and ordinances have been passed from time to time, by many 
nations, to arrest the growing evil ; an evil created by that 
desire for personal distinction which dwells more or less in 
every human breast, whether male or female, and which 
marks the untaught savage of the Sandwich Islands as well 
as the enlightened and well-educated inhabitant of Britain. 
It may appear incredible to those who have not dived into 



108 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

the mysteries of dress and fashion, to learn that revolutions 
have been caused at different times, and among different na- 
tions, from the determined resistance opposed to the various 
laws and decrees which have been directed against the too 
great love of dress and ornament ; and so powerfully has 
this passion exhibited itself in the human mind, that blood 
has actually been shed to support it. 

In the history of China, we find that even that meek, 
quiet people were roused to fury when their Tartar conquer- 
ors ordered their luxuriant tresses to be cut off, and so 
strenuously did they oppose the arbitrary decree, that in more 
than one instance the unfortunate Chinese preferred losing 
their heads to parting with their beloved ringlets. We are 
also told that the Tartars waged a long and bloody war with 
the Persians, and declared them to be infidels, because they 
would not clip their whiskers after the fashion of the 
former. 

Even so late as the eighteenth century, a very serious 
emeute took place in Madrid, on an attempt being made to 
banish the capa and sombrero ; and, marvellous as it may 
seem, the obstinate resistance opposed to those who wished 
to change the fashion of those cherished articles of dress 
caused the disgrace and flight of the prime minister. 

In our own country many laws and edicts have been made 
at different times to check, not only extravagance in dress 
itself, as regards the richness and splendor of its materials and 
ornaments that decorate it, but also to correct and regulate 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 109 

the shape of various parts of the apparel of both men and 
women. Several of our early kings waged war against the 
ridiculous and enormous length of j)iked shoes, and, by 
enacting a law restraining their points to a certain standard, 
hoped to correct the evil. But Fashion was not to be so 
ruled by the will of a monarch ; angry at her wishes being 
disobeyed, she immediately put it into the heads of her fol- 
lowers to invent a mode equally absurd ; the crakowes and 
poulaines disappeared, but were soon replaced by shoes of 
so extravagant a width, that another law was, ere long, 
found necessary to circumscribe their breadth. 

Queen Elizabeth, though herself so devoted a follower of 
fashion, and so passionately fond of dress, still made many 
laws respecting the attire of her subjects. She commanded 
the lower orders to wear on the Sabbath-day a cap of a pecu- 
liar shape ; and, perhaps to restrain the love of foreign 
fashions which had long been so prevalent in England, she 
enacted that this head-dress should be made of wool, knit, 
thicked, and dressed in Britain. She also made a decree to 
limit the size of the ruffs and swords worn by her courtiers 
to the standard she considered fitting for subjects to 
assume ; and, fearful that so arbitrary a law might be in 
some way or other evaded by the votaries of fashion, she 
appointed officers whose sole duty it was to break every 
man's sword exceeding the limited length, and clip all the 
ruffs whose size infringed upon her legal ordinance. 
Although the arbitrary laws caused some slight troubles at 



110 ANCIENT AND MODEBN FASHION. 

first among gallants who could not brook the shortening of 
their cherished weapons, still no serious consequences en- 
sued, and on the whole the English have ever borne the 
attacks made upon their dress with becoming sang froid. 
Elizabeth, too, busied herself in arranging the costume usu- 
ally worn in the Inns of Court, and particularized the shapes 
and colors of the garments and the embroideries she consid- 
ered befitting so grave an assembly. 

Under Elizabeth's successor a serious debate took place in 
parliament, concerning the enormous size of verdingles ; and 
some years afterwards laws were passed to put a stop to 
patching and painting. 

The Turks, despotic in everything, will not allow the 
Grecian ladies the poor privilege of wearing petticoats of 
the length that fashion in their country has declared to be 
proper and fitting ; they have officers whose duty it is to 
trim off as much of the jupe as ventures beyond the 
length fixed by their barbarous masters. 

The Turks also have laws by which none but their own 
august persons are allowed to wear yellow slippers ; and 
while their haughty brows were encircled with turbans of the 
finest and brightest-colored muslins, with silks of the richest 
dyes, or with shawls of the gayest tints and most delicate 
texture, their Grecian subjects were condemned to wear 
dark cotton caps, as a mark of their servitude ; the Arme- 
nians, too, they oblige to appear in ridiculous-looking bal- 
loon-shaped cappas ; and the crouching Jews look doubly 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. Ill 

-miserable when forced to ' bend to the Turkish law, which 
only permits their heads to be covered with brimless caps, 
much resembling inverted flower-pots. These despots hav e 
however themselves been, within the last few years, con- 
strained to bend to the decree of Sultan Mahmoud, who 
ordered that a red cloth fez, or military cap, should be worn 
by the followers of the faithful, instead of the lofty calpac 
or ample turban. This law was, however, received with the 
most determined and indignant remonstrances and opposi- 
tion, and so obnoxious to the Turkish feelings was this new- 
fashioned head-dress, that the discontented party set fire to 
the houses of those who were favorable to the change ; 
and though the Sultan's wishes passed into a law, his subjects 
are still highly disgusted with their forced adoption of any 
coiffure in the place of the turban so long worn by their 
forefathers. 

Besides the many decrees made by our monarchs concern- 
ing dress, a particular costume was arranged by Charles the 
Second and his council, for the nobility to appear in, and 
one in which great extravagance of gold, silver, lace, and 
jewels was not necessary ; for during his reign in England, 
the immense sums lavished upon dress and ornaments were 
almost incalculable. 

Gustavus of Sweden also invented, or at least ordered a 
court habiliment, in which all who wished to be admitted to 
his presence, both men and women, were obliged to appear ; 
and Bonaparte followed his example, to the no small disgust 



112 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

of his officers, and to the despair and anger of les belles Fran- 
coises. Even during the Eevolution, when blood, murder, 
and misery, were spread over devoted France — when the 
prisons echoed with the groans of the unfortunate victims 
of political despotism — when the scaffolds were crowded 
with the dead and the dying — dress was not forgotten, and 
stormy were the debates on this important subject held in 
the national convention ! 

In various countries of Europe sumptuary laws have at 
different times been enacted, to restrain extravagance in 
apparels. 

In Switzerland, Italy, and Germany, the legislature fre- 
quently found it necessary to interfere ; and for this reason, 
probably, the national costume still remains in full force 
among the peasantry, who hitherto have resisted the approach 
of Fashion, and her handmaids, Caprice and Vanity. While 
on this subject, we must not forget to mention the peculiar 
privileges relating to dress belonging to the family of 
Andrea Dona. When, owing to the luxury and profusion 
which characterized the Genoese of his day, the senate found 
it absolutely necessary to check the growing evil, and for- 
bade the wearing of jewels and brocade, the patriot admiral, 
doubtless to show his country's sense of the services he had 
rendered it, was allowed to expend what sums he pleased 
upon the adornment of his person ; and this privilege was 
afterward extended to his family. 

Woman is defined by an ancient writer to be an " animal 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 113 

that delights in finery ;." and it is to be feared the annals of 
dress in every land, the most savage as well as the most civ- 
ilized, will but prove the truth of the assertion. Certain it 
is that the peacock, in all its pride, does not glitter in more 
various and gaudy trappings than does a modern woman of 
fashion. But while thus speaking of woman's love of finery, 
which appears from the most ancient writers to have be- 
longed to her since the world began, we must not omit to 
mention that man also was, and in most countries still is,, as 
much devoted to this passion as the fair sex. Though in 
these days, at least in most civilized nations r it is considered 
effeminate for men to adorn their persons with, trinkets and 
embroidered garments, still those who peruse the " Book of 
Costume " will find that, however extravagant women have 
been in these respects, men have equalled, if not surpassed 
them in profusion and magnificence. Among savage na- 
tions, to this clay, the warriors deck their persons with all 
the finery they can procure — with feathers, shells, beads and 
paint ; while their wives are often obliged to content them- 
selves with their blanket-covering, and but few ornaments. 

In Exodus we read of the "jewels of silver, and jewels of 
gold," borrowed by the Israelites from the Egyptians. In 
Isaiah, also, we find a long account of female apparel in the 
time of the prophet. 

Having thus pointed to our readers the antiquity of the 
toilet, we will speak of Fashion, who, " sole arbitress of 
dress," with the caprice for which she is so celebrated, has 



11-i ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

enacted, that what is the proper standard for attire in one 
country, and at one time, shall be equally the contrary in 
other climes, and at other periods. 

Of all nations, the two that pay the most devoted atten- 
tion to the decrees of fashion, in the size, shape, and color 
of every trifle relating to the toilet, are the English and 
French, and it seems a reflection worthy the consideration of 
the philosopher, why these two (we may truly say the most 
enlightened nations of the world) should, of all others, be 
the most determined and devoted followers of this feather 
and flower decked goddess. — Annals of Fashion, London, 
1847. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 115 



DRESS AND FASHION— AMERICAN AUTHORS. 



FASHION. 

It was the ordinary remark of the fashionable Dr. Gra- 
ham (in the da} 7 s of Horace Walpole), when consulted by a 
patient, " Sir, your disease is very extraordinary, but it is 
common enough." This paradoxical definition may be very 
well applied as interpreting the word " Fashion." The lat- 
ter is doubtless an extraordinary thing commonly adopted. 
It will seem still further paradoxical to assert that what is 
" fashionable " is " vulgar ;" but when it is recollected that 
" vulgar " implies something popularly observed (the word 
being derived from " volk," " people"), the paradox is no 
longer apparent. The Latin terms vulgus and vulgaris, like 
our own translations of them, are not intended to convey 
anything complimentary in them. The designation vulgus 
was contemptuously flung at the ancient Germans by their 
Eoman antagonists. The sons of Herman accepted the 
name, and the German " volk " soon became the fashionable 
or popular equivalent for " patriots." 

In the term " mode " we have something of a similar 
meaning. It is derived from mos, a manner or custom. This 



11G ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION". 

word in its plural form, mores, signifies " morals," by which 
is meant manners, which, if not, ought to be in fashion. As 
in Latin the difference of number alters the signification, so 
in French does the change of gender. "Le moral," of a 
woman, is for instance, by no means the same thing as " sa 
morale." In deriving mode from " mos," we follow the 
lexicographer Boiste. We may add, however, that another 
Latin word, " modus," is not altogether to be set aside as the 
original of " mode." It implies a due proportion, neither 
more nor less; a just measure, or manner, and to be in 
the mode, according to this rendering of the original, is not 
to be extravagant — not to be in excess in anything. He 
who adopts this mode will find himself possessed of the most 
valuable of fashions — the true u factu nobilum ;" although 
Livy had not the same application in his mind when he 
wrote the words just quoted. 

The most ancient fashion with which we are acquainted 
is one which is just expiring. It commenced in Scythia, 
and is going out, after a long reign, in ISFew Zealand. We 
allude to " tattooing." It is, or was, the offspring of some 
strange conceit on the part of the ladies. These latter were 
Scythians, who, holding in their power some Thracians of 
the same sex, amused themselves, says Clearchus, by tracing 
very ridiculous figures on their bodies by means of needles. 
The poor Thracian ladies, when restored to freedom, exer- 
cised their ingenuity by concealing the absurd figures etched 
on their bodies, in a labyrinth of flourishes, circles, and most 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 117 

perplexing patterns. The design was immediately adopted 
as fashionable wear, and every Thracian lady appeared in 
public tattooed from the head to the loins. 

Since that period, the mode has been followed by various 
nations, and until very recently it was the characteristic of 
the New Zealand aristocracy. Of late years, however, the 
young chiefs look with something of contempt on their 
seniors so distinguished ; and very speedily a tattooed skin 
will be as rare a thing in the isles of the Southern Ocean as 
perukes and patches, clouded caves and farthingales in the 
public promenades of England. 

The fashions of the conqueror generally prevail over those 
of the conquered. Thus young British chieftains, despite 
the disgust of their sires, threw off their vesture of skins 
and put on the habits of their Roman victors. A conse- 
quence, only partially similar, followed the Norman invasion ; 
the Norman cavaliers took from the Saxons their "smock- 
frocks," and with a change of material and an addition of 
ornament, introduced the blouse. When not engaged in 
military duties, the same invaders doffed their iron head- 
pieces, and donned a wide-brimmed and easy covering of 
felt — this was nothing more than the modern " wide-awake." 
The couvre-chef of the lounging Norman has been stiffened 
into the peculiar head-gear of the Society of Friends ; but its 
chief glory consists in its having been, in a modified shape 
and a scarlet hue, patronized by the Church of Rome, and 
fixed upon the brows of her humble cardinals. 



118 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

Some one has defined "fashion " as being "the tyrant of 
fops and females.'' The definer might have added that the 
artificers in fashion's service are often the victims of fashion's 
slaves. There is nothing so powerful, so absolute, so impe- 
rious, and so transitory, as this same fashion. Napoleon 
himself was jealous even of this so-called goddess of fashion ; 
and he condescended to sneer at her votaries, by saying that 
nations are sheep-like, and ready to follow the first who set 
a strange example. The simile is ricketty, and is not en- 
tirely correct. "We have never heard of any one who fol- 
lowed the fashion set and advocated by Osclepiades, who 
tried to bring cheap locomotion into general favor, and who 
travelled about the world on a cow, living on her milk by 
the way. The above is an example set, whiteh. has never 
been followed. "We may cite, on the other hand, a fashion 
followed, the originating example for which no one has yet 
discovered. We allude to "smoking." Of course, at this 
word, the thoughts naturally revert to Sir Walter Raleigh 
and Yirginia tobacco. There were pipes, however, in our 
old monasteries, and the monks smoked "colt's foot" to 
keep the marsh air out of their stomachs. The fashion is 
probably of Eastern origin. That mention is not made 
thereof throughout the Arabian Nights, is no proofto the 
contrary ; for we believe that in that picturesque series the 
undeniably prevalent Eastern fashion of opium-eating is not 
even alluded to. 

* * * * # * * 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 119 

Finally, reverting to " fashion " as simply in connection 
with dress, its past history reveals to us the counterfeit pre- 
sentment of our ancestors ; its present history, to be found 
in various contemporary authors, will convey a reflection of 
ourselves to those who will succeed us. It is a subject 
which unceasingly occupies the fool, and only passingly con- 
cerns the philosopher. Diogenes was not anything the more 
of a philosopher for living in a tub. He affected to fly the 
fashions of the day ; but it has been truly remarked that 
while a fop is the slave of fashion, a philosopher surrenders 
himself to his tailor, whose duty lies in dressing him becom- 
ingly. He who entirely despises becomingness of attire, 
under an affected or an imaginary contempt for fashion, is 
as weak of head and mistaken in employment as he who sets 
all duties below the pleasure of watching the fashions and 
adopting them. These perish with daily perishing time, and, 
as the moralist of Dourdan sensibly remarks, " La vertu 
seule, si peu a la mode, va au-dela des temps." — Encyclope- 
dia Britannica, Boston, U. S. 



120 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 



DRESS AND FASHION— AMERICAN AUTHORS. 



COSTUME. 

Costume (Fr. costume, custom), the style of dress charac- 
teristic of an individual, community, class, or age. So va- 
rious and fickle are the modes of costume, that if the dressed 
man, and not the natural man, were the subject of science, 
and if men and women, like shells, minerals, flowers, and 
stars, were chiefly described and characterized by the way 
they strike the eye, rather than by more essential qualities, 
humanity would be the most complicated and perplexing 
branch of natural history. In an old poem, an English 
philosopher is represented as standing naked before a piece 
of cloth, with a pair of scissors in hand, trying in vain to 
decide in which of the various possible ways he shall clothe 
himself, and singing to himself : 

" Now I will wear this, and now I will wear that, 
And now I will wear I care not what." 

Though no thinker has developed a priori the laws of cos- 
tume, an observer of its phenomena in all ages would be 
able to reduce them to a few original types. 

There are but two places naturally fitted to be the points 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 121 

of support of the principal portions of dress : over the 
shoulders, and around the body above the hips. When at- 
tached by the shoulders, if no openings are made for the 
arms, or if the sleeves are so full and flowing as not to ap- 
pear distinct from the principal garment, some one of the 
varieties of cloak is produced, as the chlamys, toga, peplum, 
palum, shawl, cassock, robe, cope, dalmatica, surplice, pelisse, 
mantle, and mantilla. If the garment is closer, so that the 
arms project through it, and have free play outside of it, some 
species of the tunic, various in length and quality, is pro- 
duced, as the coat, waistcoat, frock coat, blouse, jacket, 
spencer, jerkin, doublet, super-tunic, surtout, gown, bodice, 
kirtle, chemise and shirt. Garments attached by the hips are 
distinguished into two classes, according as they envelop 
the legs, separately or together. Of the former class are all 
trouse, trousers, breeches, pantaloons, pantalettes, and draw- 
ers. Of the latter are the skirts or robes of gowns, aprons, 
and all the petticoats, as jupes, sous-jupes, joupons, kilts 
and farthingales. The peculiarities of different classes are 
often combined in the same garment, the skirt, which hanga 
from the waist, being united to a bodice, closely fitting the 
upper part of the body, and the lower garments being often 
suspended from the shoulders by straps. The coverings of 
the head, feet and hands are put on from the extremities, 
and are kept in place chiefly by being made close, though 
garters, shoe-buckles and strings, and occasionally straps, 
beneath the chin, are employed as fastenings ; they include 



122 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

caps, hats, hoods, bonnets, turbans, tiaras, mitres, crowns, 
chaperons, cauls, cowls, plumes, crests, veils, wimples, head- 
dresses {coiffures) commodes, chaplets, fillets, frontals, peri- 
wigs, perukes, ornamented combs, mufflers, stockings, hose, 
boots, greaves, buskins, thongs, shoes, slippers, moccasins, 
socks, gauntlets, gloves and mittens. The neck and wrists, 
and sometimes also the ankles, are regarded as natural 
sites for ornaments, such as collars, cravats, ties, gorgets, 
tippets, partlets, chains, bracelets, armlets and anklets. 
Tresses, ringlets, curls, ear-rings, finger-rings, watch-chains, 
and, rarely, nose jewels and tattooing make a part of cos- 
tume. The junction of different portions is effected by 
brooches, clasps, pins, buckles, buttons and button-holes, 
hooks and eyes, cords, ribbons and knots. 

Flowing garments are often brought close about the waist 
by a girdle, sash, belt, or zone. Every surface may be em- 
broidered, furbelowed, flounced, trolloped, or puffed, and 
every border may be furnished with fringes, lappets, tags, 
aigulet, frills, ruffs, tassels, scollops, slashes, or various other 
styles of finish. Among the accessories of costume are the 
fan and cane. Leaves, feathers, and skins, which were the 
first material of clothing, have been succeeded by an im- 
mense array of cloths and furs, the result of an important in- 
dustry in almost every part of the world, as various in tex- 
ture and color as are the shape and purpose of the habiliments 
into which they are manufactured. In Egyptian and He- 
brew history, the arts of weaving, dyeing, and embroidery 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 123 

were already in fashion. Egyptian workmen were clad with 
unrivalled simplicity, wearing generally only a short apron 
about the loins. They sometimes had also short drawers 
reaching half-way to the knee. The higher orders wore the 
same dress under an ample tunic of fine linen, reaching to 
the ankle, and provided with long sleeves. Only the outer 
and finer garments were worn by women. The priests 
usually wore the long robe of linen, of so fine texture as to 
be transparent, and over it a leopard-skin, as their costume 
of office. A wrapper was sometimes bound around the 
loose robe, covering the lower part of the body and falling 
in front below the knees ; and while bearing the sacred em- 
blems, the hierophants frequently wore a long full apron, 
tied in front with long bands, and supported by a strap over the 
shoulder. The head was also closely shaved, but sometimes 
covered with a wig, or tight cap. The texture of Egyptian 
linen, as proved by ancient representations, and by a piece 
recently discovered near Memphis, was equal to that of the 
finest now made. The Israelites were strictly commanded 
(Numb. xv. 38) to make fringes on the borders of their 
garments, adding a blue ribbon to the edge. A skirt or 
tunic to which a mantle was the outer covering, was their 
ordinary dress, and is still a frequent oriental costume. The 
Talmud enumerated eighteen garments which formed the 
clothing of the Jews from head to foot, among which are two 
sandals and two buskins. A figured girdle was worn around 
the waist, in which it was usual to carry a knife or poniard, 



124: ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

which men of literary occupations replaced by an inkhorn. 
Bells and pomegranates on the bottom of the robe were- 
ornaments peculiar to the high-priest. The dress of the 
"Women among the poorer classes seems to have consisted of 
loose trousers and a long gown ; while women of superior 
condition wore over their linen dress a mantle resembling 
that of the men, but more closely fitting the person. The 
hair was worn long, braided with numerous tresses, trinkets, 
and ribbons ; and the head-dress was adorned with jewels 
and pearls. Ear-rings and finger-rings were also fashion- 
able; the eyelids and finger nails were stained, small mirrors 
were hung about the person as ornaments (as is still the 
custom of the Moorish women of Barbary) ; and a nose jewel 
was among the presents sent by Abraham to Rebecca. The 
dress of the Babjdonians was a sort of flounced cylindrical 
robe, reaching from the neck to the feet. It appears some- 
times on the monuments to consist of two garments, a short 
jacket, and an under- robe or petticoat,both alike flounced. The 
hair was worn long, and either fell in copious tresses or was 
confined by several varieties of head-dresses. The national 
costume of the ancient Persians was a close-fitting tunic and 
trousers of leather. The Median dress, on the contrary, was 
a loose flowing robe, which was applauded, by Xenophon as 
concealing the form, and giving it an appearance of grandeur 
and elegance. A long frock, girdled with a cloak of thicker 
materials over it, was the dress of the early Greeks. The 
women were more closely robed in a tunic or shirt falling 






ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 125 

down to the feet, surrouuded by an ample shawl or scarf, 
which not only enveloped the whole body, but sometimes 
covered the head or trailed upon the ground. Flowers were 
usually intertwined with their hair. The Tyrian purple and 
embroidery of the Sidonian women were in repute in the 
Homeric age. From the time of Pericles, the tunic was the 
principal article of female attire. It was made of linen, with 
sleeves covering only the upper part of the arm, and, being 
usually longer than the body, was drawn up and overlapped 
at the girdle, so as to reach only to the feet. Hence resulted 
the horizontal and undulating folds below the bosom, joined 
with the perpendicular folds of the skirt, which was a pro- 
minent characteristic of Greek drapery. All of the Greek 
outer garments were loosely attached, their chlamys, pallium, 
(himation) and peplum being properly translated scarf, 
blanket, and shawl. Unlike all the nations by which they 
were encircled, they wore nothing resembling pantaloons. 
The national and peculiar garment of the Komans was the 
toga. It was a full semicircular robe of white woollen, 
thrown freely about the body, flowing into many folds, and 
worn in different styles by every age and rank, that for 
priests and magistrates being bordered or striped with purple. 
The corresponding female dress was the stola, which was 
only an outer and more elegant tunic, reaching to the ankles 
or feet, furnished with sleeves, and having a flounce at the 
bottom. Under the flowing toga and stola were worn one 
or often two girdled and close tunics, which were larger and 



12 G ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

longer for the females. The Eomans made their garments 
chiefly of linen and woollen, silk being unknown to them 
till after the close of the republic. There were celebrated 
Coan vestments made of muslin or gauze, so thin as hardly 
to conceal the form, and which were denominated by the 
satirists " woven wind." The Romans, like the Greeks, went 
with head uncovered, or with only a part of the toga drawn 
over it, when a cap, broad-brimmed hat (petasus), or helmet 
was worn. There were various coverings for the feet, those 
for the men being usually of black leather, those for the 
women white, or sometimes red, or yellow. 

Early in the 14th century, fashions began to travel from 
Italy through Paris to London. At that period were in- 
troduced caps and hats of various fantastic shapes, plumes, 
and garments of more delicate texture, and the women began 
to ornament the borders of their shifts around the bosom and 
arms with needle-work. The female costume which appears 
in the painting of Giotto and his contemporaries is a robe or 
super-tunic flowing in folds to the feet, and coming high up 
in the neck, where it was met by the wimple of white linen. 
The sleeves terminated at the elbow in lappets, showing the 
sleeve of the under garment, which fitted the body tightly. 
The dress of the ancient Saxon, Norman, Scottish, and 
Danish women was a long girdled robe, and a full flowing 
mantle fastened on the breast. Sleeves and veils had be- 
come so long in the reign of Henry I. that they were tied 
up in bows and festoons. Great extravagance in dress pre- 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 127 

vailed in the reign of Edward III., when the men wore silk 
hoods, parti-colored coats with deep sleeves and narrow 
waists, short hose, long-pointed shoes, a bushy beard before 
"and a tail of hair behind ; and the ladies of distinction wore 
a turban or lofty mitre, with ribbons floating from it like 
streamers, a tunic half of one color and half of another, and 
a deeply embroidered zone, in front of which two daggers were 
suspended. "The ladies," says a poet of the period, "are 
like peacocks and magpies." The petticoat is first men- 
tioned by this appellation in the 15th century, when it was 
worn by both sexes. Coat, or " cote," became a new name 
for a species of tunic about the same time. The kirtle, which 
is frequently alluded to in old romances, was the undergar- 
ment, white or more usually green, and sometimes laced close 
to the body like a bodice. Occasionally, in Anglo-Norman 
time, ladies in kirtle alone served in the hall ; and at the close 
of the 15th century it was a habit of penance, and was worn 
as such by Jane Shore. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
the Earl of Pembroke was the first who wore knit stockings 
in England, which were obtained from Mantua; and the 
Earl of Oxford brought also from Italy embroiderepl and 
perfumed gloves. The ladies wore farthingales and muffs 
of immense compass; and when the men introduced long 
swords and high ruffs, the jealous queen appointed officers 
to break every sword and clip every gentleman's ruff which 
was beyond a certain size. The breeches fell far short of the 
knees, the defect being supplied by long hose. The bodice 



128 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

of a lady's dress was made remarkably long. The fashion- 
able hat had a broad brim and a high crown, diminishing 
eonically upward. In the reign of James I. the cloak was 
more worn than it had been previously, and it continued to 
be in fashion after the restoration of Charles II. Silk garters 
j lulled in a large knot were worn below the knees, and knots 
or roses adorned the shoes. Yellow starch for ruffs, in- 
vented by the French, was introduced in this reign by the 
example of a lady who soon after " went to be hanged in a 
ruff of that color." Long coats were worn by boys till they 
were about eight years of age, the present costume of the 
blue-coat boys of London being that of the time when 
Christ's Hospital was founded. After the restoration the 
periwig was introduced into England from France ; and 
though preachers inveighed against it in their sermons, it 
soon became so much the reigning mode that a country 
gentleman is said to have employed a painter to place peri- 
wigs on the heads of several of Vandyke's portraits. In this 
reign the clerical habit assumed its present form ; and it was 
also the era of shoe-buckles, open sleeves, pantaloons, and 
shoulder-knots. The ladies often wore green stockings 
patched and painted their faces in imitation of the French, 
and affected a mean between dress and nakedness which 
excited the reprehension of ecclesiastics. Pepy's " Diary " 
gives many minute details of the costume of this period. 
In the reign of William and Mary, Dryden complains that 
" our snippers (tailors) go over once a year into France to bring 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 129 

back the newest mode. The coat worn by gentlemen at 
this period was cut straight before, laced, and often buttoned 
in front, with large cuffs, but no collar. It was often fringed 
with gold and silver, and adorned with tassels. The breeches 
were close, reaching below the knee, the shirt was ruffled, 
the shoes were square-toed, and the hats were cocked. The 
peruke, of French origin, had expanded to an enormous size 
at the court of Louis XIV., and was copied in England, 
where it was worn alike by beaux, barristers, and the clergy. 

* -X- -if * * * vf- 

Among the most important works treating of costume 
are the JRecherches sur les Costumes, by Mailot (Paris, 1804) ; 
the collection De Costumes, Armes, et Meubles, by Yiel Castel 
(Paris, 1828-33) ; the Moden und Trachten, by Hauff (Stutt- 
gart, 1810) ; the Trachten des Christlichen Mittelalters, by Hef- 
ner (Frankfort, 1847, et seq.); the Cootim Kunde, by Weiss 
(Stuttgart, 1856, etseq.) ; the "Complete yiew of the Dress 
and Habits of the People of England, from the establishment 
of the Saxons in Britain" (London, 1796-99); and the 
very complete work of Ferrario on Ancient and Modern Cos- 
tumes 2d edition), Florence, 1823-31. 

American Encyclopedia, N. Y. 
9 



130 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 



A STAR OF FASHION— ENGLISH BATH AND 
BEAU NASH. 



* * * " Sent Hermes to Bath in the shape of a beau. 

Long reign'd the great Nash, this omnipotent lord, 

Eespected by youth, and by parents adored ; 

For him not enough at a ball to preside — 

The unwary and beautiful nymph he would guide ; 

Oft tell her a tale, how the credulous maid 

By man, by perfidious man, is betrayed ; 

Taught charity's hand to relieve the distrest, 

While tears have his tender compassion exprest. 

But alas ! he is gone ! and the city can tell, 

How in years and in glory lamented he fell." 

" But whom have we here ? Who is this ? Eight regally 
he approaches, right royal is he in his appointment. His 
six spanking grays whirl his chariot along in dashing 
style. How animated look his train, his out-riders, and the 
fellows clustered leg and wing behind his carriage ! How 
enlivening the music of the band which accompanies him ! 
how brilliant the tone of those horns, which startle the air 
with their clangour ! How the people stop on every side to 
gaze on the cortege as it passes ! How ladies and gentlemen 
of all degrees offer him courteous homage, which he as 
courteously acknowledges." * * * 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 131 

This was the monarch of the eighteenth century, and an 
absolute monarch was he ; his laws were like those of 
the Medes and Persians, unalterable ; but it must be con- 
ceded to him that he never abused the "right divine." 
Survey we this monarch in his rule : — 

Though Nash governed as if born to empire, the throne of 
Bath was not his by right : he had no hereditary claim ; he 
was merely a citizen of the world ; he was summoned by 
the voices of people to take upon his shoulders the sovereignty 
of Bath. He obeyed the call, and, like the King of the French, 
became the King of the People. 

Like all the popular monarchs, King ISTash was a strenu- 
ous advocate of reform, and Bath promoted it with all the 
influence of his potential voice, and enforced it with all the 
weight of his supreme authority. His first care was to im- 
prove the accommodations of his seat of empire. "When he 
first undertook the government of Bath, it was a mean, dirty, 
and incommodious place ; the lodgings for visitors were 
shabby, dirty and expensive; the public rooms were des- 
ecrated by all sorts of vulgarity and rudeness. Under the 
direction and authority of their new monarch, the corpora- 
tion of Bath re-edified their city ; and noble streets, beautiful 
squares, verdant gardens, soon combined their attractions. * * 
He drew up a code of ceremonial laws which he rigidly en- 
forced, and which were implicitly submitted to by l the in- 
habitants and visitors of the city. 

Like all popular monarchs, he became very absolute. An 



132 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

intimation of his royal will carried with it the form of a 
mandate with all the gentle sex; the other was often refrac- 
tory. The King, however, was firm, and invariably, in the 
end, successful. Beau Nash had the unusual good fortune 
to be thrown by circumstances into the very position in 
which he was qualified to shine. The strictest etiquette 
was enforced, and the claims of precedence were rigidly ad- 
hered to. In the duead justment of these, Nash was unri- 
valled, and doubtless derived therefrom no small portion of 
the respect and deference with which he was ■ uniformly 
treated ; and a great addition was made to the comfort of the 
vast number of respectable middle classes who resorted to 
Bath, in the courteous treatment which the monarch of all 
exacted from them, from those titled individuals who had 
hitherto arrogated somewhat too much to themselves from 
the circumstance of their rank. 

At this time the bath itself was the first fashionable resort 
in the morning, whither the ladies were conveyed in chairs, 
attired in their bathing-dresses, but with their heads dressed 
as if for an evening assembly ; and while their bodies were 
receiving the benefit of the healing waters, their beaming 
countenances were turned to the surrounding gallery, whith- 
er the gentlemen duly repaired to pay their' morning compli- 
ments to the fair. Soft music played around ; and that no 
luxury might be wanting, no sense ungratified, each lady 
had a small floating-dish by her side, containing her pocket- 
handkerchief, nosegay and snuff-box. Could the gods in 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 133 

Elysium have more ? — Ye powers ! — a finely-dressed head 
a warm bath, a crowd of beaux, a band of music, a bunch of 
flowers, and a snuff-box ! 

Our readers need hardly be told that those were the days 
of minuets and country-dances. Quadrilles were unknown. 
Even the parent cotillion had not appeared. Grallopades 
were unheard of. Mazurkas were hidden in the womb of 
time. Polkas were an impossibility. And as to the exotic 
waltz, graceful though it be, young Englishwomen of those 
days, how wanting soever in some of the refining character- 
istics of these, had not learnt unblushingly to confide them- 
selves to the arms of mere acquaintances of the other sex ; 
to bear their close and not always, respectful gaze ; to feel 
their very breath on their necks, their cheeks, fanning the 
hair that strays on their face ! Englishwomen can do this 
now; aye, and deem themselves modest; but — it is the 
fashion. 

Amid a mass of frivolity and trifling, profusion and petty 
parade, many are the anecdotes recorded of Nash which 
would confer lustre on any man. He was a most shrewd 
and inveterate censor of slander and calumny ; this qualifi- 
cation was an invaluable one to the Master of the Ceremonies 
at a fashionable and frivolous watering-place. His heart was 
most kind, his generosity great ; and though himself a pro 
fessed gamester, he was never weary in his endeavors to pre- 
vent the young and inexperienced from gaining the habit, 
or from being the dupes of another. To the young of both 



134 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

sexes, but to the fair especially, be was at all times a kind, 
a cautious, and a disinterested adviser ; and the grave was 
not closer than himself, on any domestic secret committed 
to his keeping. * * * Nash's' rule became absolute, and 
he was in acts and in reality .what he was universally called 
— the King of Bath. 

To the sick poor, who congregated at Bath for the benefit 
of its healing waters, he was a generous and unfailing bene- 
factor ; if not in his own person, — for he had seldom money 
to give, — by his personal exertions and his great influence 
with others. He was the main engine in the erection of an 
hospital free to the poor of all England, who required the 
Bath waters. 

Surely this man should not descend to posterity as a mere 
beau — the peer only of Fielding and Brummell. — Chronicles 
of Fashion, London, 1845. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 135 



ESSAYS ON DRESS AND FASHION— 1790-1868. 



The formalities of the 18tli century received a severe 
blow, at the French Revolution ; and in the ten years from 
1790 to 1800, a more complete change was effected in dress, 
by the spontaneous action of the people, than had taken 
place at any previous period in a century. The change be- 
gan in France, partly to mark a contempt for old court 
usages, and partly in imitation of certain classes of persons 
in England whose costume the French mistook for that of the 
nation generally. Thus new French dress was introduced by 
the party who were styled the Sans Culottes. It consisted 
of a round hat, a short coat, a light waistcoat, and pantaloons, 
a handkerchief was tied loosely round the neck, with the 
ends long, and hanging down, and showing the shirt-collar 
above ; the hair was cut short, without powder, d la Titus ; 
and the shoes were tied with strings. 

The comparatively simple form of dress of the Sans Cu- 
lottes found many admirers in England, and soon became 
common among young men ; a change from the antique 
fashions was also greatly helped by the imposition of a tax 
on the use of hair-powder, which was henceforth usually 



136 AXCIENT AND MODERN" FASHION". 

abandoned. Pantaloons which fitted close to the legs re- 
mained in very common use by those persons who had 
adopted them, till about the year 1814, when the wearing 
of trousers, already introduced into the army, became fash- 
ionable. It is proper, however, to mention that trousers had, 
for the previous fifteen or twenty years, been used by boys and 
were perhaps from them adopted by the army. Previous to 
the French Revolution, the dress of boys was almost the 
same as that of men. Although trousers — called by the 
Americans pants — -were generally worn after 1815, many 
elderly persons still held out in knee-breeches against all in- 
novations ; and of the present day, an aged gentleman may 
occasionally be seen clinging to this 18th century form of 
dress. The general use of white neckcloths continued, not- 
withstanding the introduction of the standing collar, till the 
reign of George IV., when this monarch's taste for wearing 
a black silk kerchief or stock, and also the use of black 
stocks in the army, caused a remarkably quick abandonment 
of white neckcloths, and the adoption of black instead. The 
year 1825, or thereabouts, was the era of this signal improve- 
ment in costume. 

While these leading changes were effecting, other altera- 
tions of a less conspicuous nature were from time to time 
taking place. The disbanding of the army after the Peace 
of 1815, led to various transformations besides those we 
have mentioned. While pantaloons were the fashionable 
dress, it became customary to wear Hessian boots ; these, 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 137 

■which had originated among the Hessian troops, were 
without tops, and were worn with small silk tassels dangling 
from a cut in front, being drawn over the lower part of the 
pantaloons. They had a neat appearance ; but the keeping of 
them clean formed a torment that prevented their universal 
use. * * "When trousers were introduced from the 
practice of the army, the use of Wellington boots to go 
beneath them also became common. Referring to the era of 
1815 to 1825, as that in which trousers, Wellington boots, 
and black neckcloths or stocks came into vogue, we may 
place the introduction of surtout in the same period of his- 
tory. From the time when the collarless and broad-skirted 
coat had disappeared, about the commencement of the Cen- 
tury, the fashion of coats had changed in various ways till 
the above-named era, when the loose frock-coat or surtout 
was added to the list of garments. 

Such is a general account of the progress of fashion in 
England, until nearly the present day. In these fashions, 
the Welsh, Irish, and Scotch have participated ; and there is 
now little to distinguish the inhabitants of one part of the 
United Kingdom from another. 

Some differences exist in particular localities, as, for in- 
stance, the round hats of the women in Wales, the checked 
gray plaid of the Lowland Scottish peasantry, and the kilts 
of the Highlanders, f * * 

The general simplifying of dress subsequent to 1815 was 
not accompanied by an expiring effort to sustain a high 



13 > 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 



style of fashion. The macaroni, or highly dressed beau of 
the 18th century, was succeeded by the dandy, who, with 
mincing, affected manners, prided himself on his starched 
collars, his trouser-straps, and the flashy bunch of seals 
which dangled from his watch-chain. 

The Eegency was the era of this kind of supreme dandy- 
ism, but it continued till later times, and characterized a 
number of leading public personages, of whom notices occur 
in " Eaikes's Reminiscences" from 1831 to 1851. In the 
present day may be noted a kind of breakdown of every- 
thing like formality in gentlemen's walking costume ; plain 
cloths, of divers hues, called tweeds have almost super- 
seded materials of a superior quality. Cloth caps, or 
soft felted hats, called wide-awakes, cover the heads ; 
and the feet are covered with short ankle boots instead 
of Wellingtons. In the evening or dinner costume, how- 
ever, the old etiquette of dress coats and white neckcloths 
is still maintained. Among the changes that are taking 
place in the morning or walking dress, none is so remarkable 
as the growing fashion of wearing Knickerbockers. 

These are wide loose trousers to below the knee, leaving 
the lower part of the leg only stockinged or covered with 
leggings. This fashion, which has been copied more imme- 
diately from the French Zouaves, and partly perhaps 
from the common practice of stuffing the lower parts 
of the trousers roughly into boots in the western regions 
of the United States, is very much a resumption of the cos- 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 139 

tumes seen in old Dutch prints. Should it become general, 
leg-gaiters or boots will come again into use, and the present 
generation may live to see the fashion of male attire work 
once more round to the knee-breeches of the 18th century. 
In female as well as in male costume, fashion seems to have 
a tendency to work in a circle ; of this the resumption of 
the farthingale or hoop, under the name of crinoline, * * * 
offers a sufficient example, besides affording a ludicrous 
instance of the unreasoning manner in which extravagances 
in dress are usually followed. It is to be observed, however? 
that Englishwomen, chargeable as they are with this ab- 
surdity, set a most creditable example to their sex all over 
the world, in allowing no fantastic change of fashion to pre- 
vent them from taking out-door exercise in all weathers, to 
which a recent introduction of India-rubber goloshes 
has materially aided. 

As to tlie moral view that may be taken of the whimsi 
calities of female fashions, we might refer to the numerous 
papers of Steele, in the Taller and Specia tor, and also the 
writings of other 18th century essayists. Passing these over, 
it is enough to quote the words of Hazlitt, a more recent 
essayist. " Fashion," he says, " constantly begins and ends 
in two things it abhors most — singularity and vulgarity. 
It is the perpetual setting up, and then disowning a certain 
standard of taste, elegance, and refinement, which has no 
other formation or authority than that it is the prevailing 
distraction of the moment, which was yesterday ridiculous 



140 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

from its being new, and to-morrow it will be odious from 
its being common. It is one of the most slight and insig- 
nificant of all things. It cannot be lasting, for it depends 
on the constant change and shifting of its own harlequin 
disguises ; it cannot be sterling, for, if it were, it could not 
depend on the breath of caprice ; it must be superficial to 
produce its immediate effect on the gaping crowd, and 
frivolous to admit of its being assumed at pleasure, by the 
number of those who affect to be in fashion, to be distin. 
guishecl from the rest of the world. It is not anything in 
itself, nor the sign of anything, but the folly and vanity of 
those who rely upon it as their greatest pride and ornament. 
It takes the firmest hold of weak, flimsy, and narrow minds ; 
of those whose emptiness conceives of nothing excellent 
but what is thought so by others. That which is good for 
anything is the better for being widely diffused. But fash- 
ion is the abortive issue of vain ostentation and exclusive 
egotism ; it is haughty, trifling, affected, servile, despotic, 
mean and ambitious, precise and fantastical, all in a breath; 
tied to no rule, and bound to conform to every rule of the 
minute." For a large variety of amusing particulars con- 
cerning fashions, with stars of fashion, etc., during the 
past two centuries, we refer to Mrs. Stone's Chronicles of 
Fashion (Lond. 2 vols. 1845). — Chambers's Encylopedia, 
1868. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 141 



FASHION AND ITS LEADERS. 



"A story," says an eminent writer, "is never too old to 
tell, if it be made to sound new." If this be true, I may be 
excused for relating the following veritable history : — 

In an Indian jungle there once resided a tawny jackal, a 
member, as all those animals are, of a jackal club, which 
met at night in the said jungle. It was the custom for the 
different subscribers to separate early in the evening on pre- 
datory excursions ; and on one occasion, the individual in 
question having dined very sparingly that day on a leg of 
horse, ventured, in hopes of a supper, within the precincts 
of a neighboring town. It happened that while employed 
in the prowling distinctive of his kind, he fell into a sunken 
vat filled with indigo, and when he had contrived to strug- 
gle out again, discovered, by the light of the moon, that his 
coat had assumed a brilliant blue tinge. In vain he rolled 
himself on the grass ; in vain rubbed his sides against the 
bushes of the jungle, to which he speedily returned. The 
blue stuck to him ; and so, with the acuteness with which 
jackals are renowned, he determined to "stick to" it. 



142 ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 

Shame, indeed, would have overcome him, ridicule have 
driven him to despair, when he rejoined his club, but for 
this resolution. That very morning he appeared among his 
kind, whisking his tail with glee, and holding his head 
erect, A titter, of course, welcomed him, and before long you 
would have thought that every jackal present had been 
turned into a laughing hyena. Our hero was nothing 
abashed. " Gentlemen," said he, in the dialect of Hindus- 
tan, peculiar to his kind, "I have been to town, and bring 
you the last new fashion." The laughter changed to respect- 
ful admiration. One by one, the members of the club stole 
up to him, and inquired where he had met with the color- 
ing, just as George IV. asked Brummell what tailor had 
made that coat. The address was imparted, and if on the 
following evening, not all of the prowling beasts appeared 
in a blue coat, it was only because three of them had been 
drowned in the attempt to procure it. — Habits of Good 
Society, K Y., 1869. 

Dress and sin came in together, and have kept good fel- 
lowship ever since. If we could doubt, as some have done, 
the authenticity of the Pentateuch, we should have to admit 
that its author was at least the shrewdest observer of man- 
kind, inasmuch as he makes a love of dress the first conse- 
quences of the fall. That it really was so, we can be certain 
from the fact that it has always accompanied an absence of 
goodness. The best dressers of every age have always been 
the worst men and women. We do not pretend that 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 148 

the converse is true, and that the best people always 
dressed the worst. Plato was at once a beau and a philoso- 
pher, and Descartes was the former before he aspired to be 
the latter. But the love of dress, take it as you will, 
can only arise from one of two closely-allied sins, vanity and 
pride ; and when in excess, as in the miserable heaux of dif- 
ferent ages, it becomes as ridiculous in a man as the glee of 
a South Sea Islander over a handful of worthless glass 
beads. No life can be more contemptible than one of which 
the Helicon is a tailor's shop, and its paradise the park; no 
man more truly wretched than he whose mind is only a mir- 
ror of his body, and whose soul can fly no higher than a 
hat or a necktie; who strangles ambition with a yard- 
measure, and suffocates glory in a book. But this puny 
peacockism always brings its own punishment. The fop 
ruins himself by his vanity, and ends a sloven, like Good- 
man, first a well-dressed student of Cambridge, then an 
actor, then a highwayman, who was at last reduced to share 
a shirt with a fellow-fool, and had to keep his room on the 
days when the other wore it. 

* * * " To be well dressed is to be dressed precisely 
as the occasion, place, weather, your height, figure, position, 
age — and remember it — your means, require. It is to be 
clothed without peculiarity, pretension, or eccentricity ; 
without violent colors, elaborate ornament, or senseless fash- 
ions, introduced often by tailors for their own profit. Good 



l-i-i ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

i 1 ressing is to wear as little jewelry as possible, to be scrupu- 
lously neat, clean and fresh, and to carry your clothes as if 
you did not give them a thought.'' — Ibid. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 145 



OF TEE BEAUTY OF COLORS. 



The greatest part of colors are connected with, a kind of 
established imagery in our minds, and are considered as 
expressive of many very pleasing and affecting qualities. 

These associations may perhaps be included in the follow- 
ing enumeration : 1st, Such as arise from the nature of the 
objects thus permanently colored. 2dly, such as arise from 
some analogy between certain colors, and certain dispositions 
of mind ; and, 3dly, such as arise from accidental connections, 
whether national or particular. 

1. When we have been accustomed to see any object ca- 
pable of exciting emotion, distinguished by some fixed or 
permanent color, we are apt to extend to the color the qual- 
ities of the object thus colored ; and to feel from it, when 
separated, some degree of the same emotion, which is prop- 
erly excited by the object itself. Instances of this kind are 
are within every person's observation. White, as it is the 
color of day, is expressive to us of the cheerfulness or gaiety 
which the return of day brings. Black is the color of dark- 
ness, and is expressive of gloom and melancholy. The color of 
10 



146 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

the heavens, in serene weather, is blue; blue is therefore 
expressive to us of somewhat of the same pleasing and tem- 
perate character. Green is the color of the earth in spring ; 
it is consequently expressive to us of some of those delight- 
ful images which we associate with the season. The colors of 
the vegetables and minerals acquire, in the same manner, a 
kind of character, from the character of the species which 
they distinguish. The expression of those colors, which are 
signs of particular passions in the human countenance, and 
which, from this connection, derive their effect, everyone is 
acquainted with. 2. There are many colors which derive 
expression from some analogy we discover between them 
and certain affections of the human mind. Soft or strong, 
mild or bold, gay or gloomy, cheerful or solemn, etc., are 
terms obviously metaphorical, and the use, which indicates 
their connection with particular qualities of the mind. In 
the same manner, different degrees or shades of the same 
color have similar character, as strong, or temperate 
or gentle, etc. In consequence of this association, which is 
in truth so strong that it is to be found among all mankind, 
such colors derive a character from this semblance, and pro- 
duce in our minds some faint degree of the same emotion, 
which, the qualities they express are fitted to produce. 
3. Many colors acquire character from accidental associa- 
tion. Purple, for instance, has acquired a character of dig- 
nity, from its accidental connection with the dress of kings. 
The colors of ermine have a similar character, from the 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 147 

same cause. The colors in every country which distinguish 
the dress of magistrates, judges, etc., acquire dignity in the 
same manner. Scarlet, in this country, as the color which 
distinguishes the dress of the army, has, in some measure, a 
character correspondent to its employment, and it was per- 
haps this association, though unknown to himself, that in- 
duced the blind man, mentioned by Mr. Locke, to liken his 
notion of scarlet to the sound of a trumpet. Every person 
will, in the same manner, probably recollect the particular 
colors which are pleasing to him, from their having been 
worn by people whom he loved, or from some other acciden- 
tal association. In these several ways, colors become sig- 
nificant to us of many interesting or affecting qualities, and 
excite in us some degree of the emotions which such qualities 
in themselves are fitted to produce. Whether some colors 
may not of themselves produce agreeable sensations, and 
others disagreeable sensations, I am not anxious to dispute ; 
but whatever colors are felt, as producing the emotion of 
beauty, that it is by means of their expression, and not 
from any original fitness in the colors themselves to pro- 
duce this effect, may perhaps be obvious. 



148 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 



FORM, EXPRESSION, ATTITUDE. 



It is very easy to see that the most different forms of fea- 
ture are actually beautiful, and that their beauty uniformly 
arises from the expressions of which they are significant to 
us. The open forehead is expressive to us of candor and 
generosity, and suits a countenance which has that expres- 
sion. The low forehead, on the contrary, is expressive to 
us of thought, of gloom, or melancholy. It becomes, there- 
fore, a different expression of countenance. The full and 
blooming cheek suits the countenance of youth and mirth, 
and female lovliness ; the sunken and faded cheek, the face 
of sensibility or grief, or of penitence ; the raised lip, the 
elevated brow, the rapid motion of the eye, are all the con- 
comitants of joyous beauty. The reverse of all these — the 
depressed lip, the contracted eyebrow, the slow and languid 
motion of the eye — are the circumstances which we expect 
and require in the countenance of sorrow or of sensibility. 
Change any of the conformations, give to the open and can- 
did countenance the low forehead, to the face of grief the 
fresh and blooming cheek of joy, to the mourner the raised 
lip, or the elevated eyebrow, which are expressive to us of 
cheerful or joyous passions, and the picture becomes a mon- 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 149 

ster, from which, even the most vulgar taste would fly as 
from something unnatural and disgusting. If there were 
any real and original beauty in such conformations, nothing 
of this kind, could happen ; and however discordant were 
our emotions of beauty and of sentiment, we should still 
feel these conformations beautiful, just as we perceive, under 
all circumstances, colors to be permanently colors, or forms 
to be forms. 

The slight illustrations which I have now offered, seems 
to me sufficient to convince those who will prosecute them, 
that there is no original beauty in any peculiar or distinct 
forms of the human features. There is another illustration 
which perhaps may still more strongly show the real origin 
of such beauty to consist in the expressions of which they 
are significant, viz. : That the same form of feature is beau- 
tiful or not, just as it is expressive or not of qualities of 
mind which are amiable or interesting to us. With regard 
to the permanent features, every one must have remarked, 
that the same form of feature which is beautiful in the one 
sex, is not beautiful in the other; that, as there is a different 
expression, there are different signs by which we expect them 
to be signified ; and that, in consequence, the same signs are 
productive of very different emotions, when they are thus 
significant of improper or of unamiable expressions. They 
who are conversant in the productions of the fine arts, must 
have equally observed, that the forms and proportions of 
features which the sculptor and the painter have given to 



150 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

their works, are very different, according to the nature of 
the character they represent, and the emotion they wish to 
excite. The form of proportions of the features of Jove are 
different from those of Hercules ; those of Apollo from those 
of Ganymede ; those of the Faun from those of the Gladia- 
tor. In female beauty, the form and proportions in the fea- 
tures of Juno are very different from those of Yenus ; those 
of Minerva from those of Diana ; those of Niobe from those 
of the Graces. All, however, are beautiful, because all are 
adapted with exquisite taste to the characters they wish the 
countenance to express. Let the theorist change them, and 
substitute for this varied and significant beauty the forms 
which he chooses to consider as solely beautiful, and the 
experiment will very soon show that the beauty of these 
forms is not original and independent, but relative and sig- 
nificant, and that, when they cease to be expressive of the 
character we expect, they cease in the same moment to be 
beautiful. 

* ****** 

Of this second theory, therefore, " that there are certain re- 
lations or proportions of the different parts of the human 
form, which are originally and essentially beautiful, and from 
the perception of which all our sentiment of beauty in this 
respect arises " — it is, I trust, now unnecessary for me to enter 
into any lengthened refutation. Yet, as some opinions of 
this kind yet linger among connoisseurs and men of taste, 
and as the anxiety for some definite rules of judgment is 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 151 

ever more prevalent among such men than the desire of in- 
vestigating their truth, it may not be unuseful to suggest the 
following very simple considerations, which every one of 
my intelligent readers must fully have anticipated. 

If there were any definite proportions of the parts of the 
human form, which, by the constitution of our nature, were 
solely and essentially beautiful, it must inevitably have fol- 
lowed, that the beauty of these proportions must have been 
as positively and definitely settled as the relations of justice 
or of geometry. 

To take an original sense for granted, and at the same 
time to suppose that the indications of this sense are varia- 
ble, or contradictory, is a solecism in reasoning which no 
man will venture to support. If such a sense is supposed, 
then the universal opinion of mankind ought to be found 
to agree in some precise and definite proportion of the parts 
of the human form. If the opinions of mankind do not 
agree in such certain and definite proportion, then no pecu- 
liar sense can be supposed to exist, by which these senti- 
ments are received. 

That not only the sentiments of mankind do not agree 
upon this subject, but that the sentiments of the same indi- 
vidual differ in a most material manner, is a truth very sus- 
ceptible of illustration. There is no form, perhaps, in nature 
which admits of such variety, both in appearance and pro- 
portion of parts, as the body of man, and which, therefore, 
seems so little capable of being reduced to any definite sys- 



152 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

tem of proportion. The proportions of the form of the 
infant are different from those of youth; these again, from 
those of manhood ; and these again, perhaps, still more from 
those of old age and decay. If there were any instinctive 
sense of beauty in form in this long history, there would be 
one age only in which this sense could be gratified. Yet 
every one knows, not only that each of these periods is sus- 
ceptible of beautiful form, but, what is much more, that the 
actual beauty in every period consists in the preservation of 
the proportions peculiar to that period, and that these differ 
in every article almost from those that are beautiful- in other 
periods of the life of the same individual. The same obser- 
vation is yet still more obvious with regard to the difference 
of sex. In every part of the form, the proportions which are 
beautiful in the two sexes are different, and the application 
of the proportions of the one to the form of the other is 
everywhere felt as painful and disgusting. If, however, 
there were any original and essential beauty in some definite 
proportion of parts, such, effects could never happen. This 
definite proportion in every case would be solely beautiful, 
and every variation from it would affect us as a deviation or 
opposition to the genuine form of beauty. It may be ob- 
served in the same manner, that if the beauty of form con- 
sisted in any original proportion, the productions of the fine 
arts would everywhere have testified it ; and that in the works 
of the statuary and the painter, we should have found only 
this sole and sacred system of proportion. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 153 

The fact, however, is (and every one knows), that in such 
productions, no such rule is observed ; that there is no one 
proportion of parts which belongs to the most beautiful pro- 
ductions of these arts ; that the proportions of the Apollo, 
for instance, are different from those of the Hercules ; the 
Antinous, from the Gladiator, etc.; and that there are not, in 
the whole catalogue of ancient statues, two, perhaps, of which 
the proportions are the same. Against the hypothesis of an 
instinctive beauty in proportion, no fact can be so decisive 
as this. If there were any original beauty in peculiar pro- 
portions of the human form, the artists of antiquity must 
have perceived it when it was so easy a matter to ascertain 
it only by the labor of measurement and calculation ; and 
that their productions are independent of such definite pro- 
portions, and that their effect is still produced, amid all this 
variation of proportion, are irrefragable proofs not only that 
the beauty of their works is not dependent upon such a 
theory of proportion, but that it arises from some higher 
causes and from some more profound attention to those feel- 
ings of human nature in which the sentiment of beauty is to 
be found. 

If there were any original beauty in certain proportions of 
the human form (independent of all other considerations), 
then it must necessarily follow, that the same proportions of 
that form would, in all cases, be beautiful, and that all other 
proportions would affect us with sentiments of pain or of 
displeasure. If such a theory were maintained, let the 



154 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

philosopher state with accuracy the proportions that are thus 
instinctively beautiful. Let him then examine whether 
this doctrine corresponds with the most obvious facts in na- 
ture. The various ages of man are in some cases, and in all 
cases may be made beautiful by the genius of the painter or 
statuary. Are the rules of proportion applicable to all these 
cases? and do we admire the form of the child, the youth, 
the man, and the aged man, because they retain, amid all 
their changes, the same proportions ? Is the beauty of the 
female form demonstrable only because it contains the same 
proportions with that of man ? and is everything that deviates 
from the male proportion a blemish and a deviation from 
beauty in the female ? These are obvious considerations. 
The pursuit of them, however, will lead every one that is 
capable of observation to still more satisfactory conclusion. 
If it is still further supposed, in aid of this infant theory, 
that there are certain proportions in sex, and in the various 
ages of human life, which are originally beautiful, it will not 
be easily supposed or maintained that there are similar in- 
stincts correspondent to the casual occupations of mankind, 
and that in every age, in the progress of society, and into 
every society which civilized man is formed, new or acci- 
dental instincts must be given, by which alone he can per- 
ceive the beauty of the forms around him. Yet all this must 
be supposed before, upon these principles, it is possible to 
account for the sentiments we every day feel, and for the 
illustrations which the artist every day gives us, with regard 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 155 

to the beauty of proportion. We see^ every day around us 
some forms of our species which affect us with sentiments of 
beauty. In our own sex, we see the forms of the legislator, 
the man of rank, the general, the man of science, the private 
soldier, the sailor, the laborer, the beggar, etc. In the other 
sex we see the forms of the matron, the widow, the young 
woman, the nurse, the domestic servant, etc. Is it by the 
principle of proportion alone, that in all these cases our sen- 
' timent of beauty is determined ? Are the proportions the 
same in all these cases ? Is not, in fact, our sentiment of 
beauty determined by the difference of these proportions ; 
and would not the application of the same principles to each, 
destroy altogether the characteristic beauty which we expect 
and look for in such different cases ? It is obviously the 
same in the arts of imitation. We expect different propor- 
tions of form from the painter, in his representation of a 
warrior and of a shepherd, of a senator and of a peasant, of 
a wrestler and of a boatman, of a savage and of a man of 
cultivated manners. We expect, in the same manner, from 
the statuary, very different proportions in the forms of Jove 
and of Apollo, of Hercules and of Antinoiis, of a Grace and 
of Andromache, of a Bachanal and of Minerva, etc. 

The same attitude of gaiety which we feel as beautiful 
in the young, we should feel as disgraceful in the mature. 
The same gesture of joy which we should approve in the 
thoughtful and the old, we should consider as tame and un- 
feeling in the young. The grief of a young woman we ex- 



156 ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 

pect to be expressed by greater violenee of gesture than we 
should approve in a character of matron firmness ; and the 
calm and subdued gesture of matron grief would, in the 
same manner, be painful or unsatisfactory to us in the form 
of the former. In pursuing this observation, it will be found 
that not on\y age, but profession, occupation, character of 
form, character of countenance, and a thousand other cir- 
cumstances, determine our sentiments of the beauty of atti- 
tude or gesture, by determining the nature of the expression 
we expect from the individual we contemplate .; and that the 
same gesture is beautiful or otherwise, precisely as it ac- 
cords, or does not accord with the character we attribute to 
the form. 

The severe and thoughtful gravity we admire in the atti- 
tude of a judge, would be absurd in a young lawyer. The 
step of dignity, the attitude of command which we love in 
the general of an army, would be ludicrous in a subaltern 
officer, etc. The same gestures or attitudes which we feel as 
beautiful or sublime in tragic imitation upon the stage, would 
be ludicrous, if they were employed even in the higher 
comedy, nor would they even be permitted by good taste in 
the inferior and less interesting characters of tragedy. It is 
unnecessary to say that the most approved or fascinating 
gestures of comedy would be altogether insufferable if they 
were employed in tragic representations. I shall only fur- 
ther request my readers to call to their remembrance the 
attitudes and gestures which they have so often admired in 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 157 

classic sculpture, and to ask themselves, whether the same 
gestures, etc., would be beautiful in all characters (as would 
necessarily be the case if beauty in this respect arose from 
any definite conformations) ; whether the gestures of the 
Apollo would be beautiful in the Hercules or in the Jupiter ; 
or the attitudes of the Venus beautiful in the forms of Juno 
or Minerva? Even in the lowest employment of the art of 
painting (in portrait painting), we feel the necessity of this 
correspondence of attitude to character ; and we blame the 
painter whenever he chooses any attitude or position which 
appears to us inconsistent with the character of mind which 
is expressed by the countenance. In feeling and in express- 
ing, on the contrary, this correspondence, in selecting the 
attitude or gesture which suits best with the character he 
represents, consists one of the chief evidences of the genius 
of the artist ; and by this means the portrait of an obscure 
individual may sometimes possess the value of an original 
composition. 

The conclusion, therefore, in which I wish to rest is, that 
the beauty and sublimity which is felt in the various appearances 
of matter, are finally to be ascribed to their expression of mind; 
or to their being, either directly or indirectly, the signs of those 
qualities of mind which are fitted, by the constitution of our 
nature, to affect us with pleasing or interesting emotion. 

Aechibald Allison, LL. B., F. E, S., London. 



158 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

" The best plrysical discipline is to be found in regular 
and cheerful exercises in the open air. Those sports which 
are often termed manly — but are not less womanly — as riding, 
boating, ball-playing, and brisk walking, are the best means of 
not only giving strength to the body, but enduing it with 
grace of form and motion. 

" Such is the intimate relation between the body and mind, 
that it is impossible to do any good to either, unless the 
actions of both are kept in harmony. This truth is well 
demonstrated by the utter uselessness of all physical exercise 
for health's sake, and, we may say, for beauty's sake too, 
unless accompanied by a wholesome mental activity. Let 
any one, while depressed in mind, test his muscular power, 
and he will soon find how little able and disposed he is to 
use it. On the other hand, if he exerts his physical strength 
when under animating influence of pleasurable emotions, he 
is scarcely conscious of effort. If physical exercise is per- 
sisted in with the indisposition and incapacity for it that 
come from mental depression, the result is an excessive pros- 
tration, which is, of course, injurious to the health of the 
body. On the contrary, the exertion of the muscular force, 
stimulated and supported by a cheerful mind, can be con- 
tinued almost indefinitely, with the good effect of giving in- 
creased vigor to the whole human system." 

Booh of Decorum. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 159 



DRESS AND FASHION. 



LORD CHESTERFIELD TO HIS SON. — SENTENCES AND MAXIMS. 
REVISED BY C. A. SAINTE BEUVE, DE l'ACADEMIE FRAN- 
CAISE. 

Montesquieu, after the publication of " L'Esprit des Lois," 
wrote to the Abbe de Guasco, who was then in England — 
" Tell my Lord Chesterfield that nothing is so flattering to 
me as his approbation ; but that, though he is reading my 
work for the third time, he will only be in a better position 
to point out to me what wants correcting and rectifying in 
it ; nothing could be more instructive to me than his obser- 
vations and his critique." It was Chesterfield, who, speak- 
ing to Montesquieu, one day, of the readiness of the French 
for revolutions, and their impatience at slow reforms, spoke 
this sentence, which is a resume of our whole history : " You 
French know how to make barricades, but you never raise 
barriers." 

Chesterfield had already said, more than twenty years pre- 
viously, writing to the younger Crebillon, a singular corres- 
pondent and a singular confidant in point of morality, — Vol- 
taire was under consideration, on account of his tragedy of 



160 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

" Mahomet " and the daring ideas it contained, — " What I do 
not pardon him for, and that which is not deserving of par- 
don in him," wrote Chesterfield to Crebillon, " is his desire to 
propagate a doctrine as pernicious to domestic society, as con- 
trary to the common religion of all countries. I strongly doubt 
whether it is permissible for a man to write against the wor- 
ship and belief of his country, even if he be fully persuaded 
of its error, on account of the trouble and disorder it might 
cause ; but I am sure that it is in no wise allowable to attack 
the foundations of true morality, and to break necessary 
bonds which are already too weak to keep men in the path 
of duty." 

And it is precisely this sacred fire, this lightning that 
makes the Achilles, the Alexanders, and the Caesars, to be 
the first in every undertaking, this motto of noble hearts, and 
of eminent men of all kinds, that nature had primarily neg- 
lected to place in the honest but thoroughly mediocre soul 
of the younger Stanhope. " You appear to want," said his 
father, " that vivida vis animi which excites the majority of 
young men to please, to strive, and to out-do others." 
" When I was your age," he says again, " I should have 
been ashamed for another to know his lesson better, or to 
have been before me in a game, and I should have had no 
rest till I had regained the advantage." 

"Human nature is the same all over the world ; but its 
operations are so varied by education and custom that we 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 161 

ought to see it in all its aspects to get an intimate knowledge 
of it." 

" Almost all men are born with every passion, to some 
extent, but there is hardly a man who has not a dominant 
passion to which the others are subordinate. Discover this 
governing passion in every individual ; search into the re- 
cesses of his heart, and observe the different effects of the 
same passion in different people. And when you have found 
the master passion of a man, remember never to trust to him 
where that passion is concerned." 

" If you wish particularly to gain the good graces and af- 
fection of certain people, men or women, try to discover their 
most striking merit, if they have one, and their dominant 
weakness, — for every one has his own — then do justice to 
the one, and a little more than justice to the other." 

He warned his son from the beginning against the idea 

that the French are entirely frivolous. " The cold inhabitants 

of the North look upon the French as a frivolous people 

who sing, and whistle, and dance perpetually ; this is very 

far from being the truth, though the army of fops seem to 

justify it. But these fops, ripened by age and experience, 

often turn into very able men." The ideal, according to 

him, would be to unite the merits of the two nations ; but 

in this mixture he still seems to lean towards France. "I 

have said many times, and I really think, that a Frenchman 

who joins to a good foundation of virtue, learning, and good 

sense, the manners and politeness of his country, has attained 
11 



162 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

the perfection of human nature." He unites sufficiently 
well in himself the advantages of the two nations, with one 
characteristic which belongs exclusively to his race — there is 
imagination even in his wit. Hamilton himself has this dis- 
tinctive characteristic, and introduces it into French wit. 
Bacon, the great moralist, is almost a poet by expression. 
One cannot say so much of Lord Chesterfield; nevertheless, 
he has more imagination in his sallies and in the expression 
of his wit than one meets with in Saint Evremond and our 
acute moralists in general. He resembles his friend Montes- 
quieu in this respect. 

" Enjoy an honorable and happy old age, after having passed 
through the trials of life. Enjoy your wit and preserve the 
health of your body. Of the five senses with which we are 
provided, you have only one enfeebled, and Lord Hunting- 
don assures me that you have a good stomach, which is 
worth a pair of ears. It will be perhaps my place to decide 
which is the most sorrowful, to be deaf or blind, or have no 
digestion. I can judge of all these three conditions with 
a knowledge of the cause ; but it is a long time since I 
ventured to decide upon trifles, least of all upon things 
so important. I confine myself to the belief that, if you 
have sun in the beautiful house that you have built, you 
will spend some tolerable moments ; that is all we can hope 
for at our age. Cicero wrote a beautiful treatise upon old 
age, but he did not verify his words by deeds ; his last years 
were very unhappy. You have lived longer and more 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 163 

happily than he did. You have had to do neither with 
perpetual dictators nor with triumvirs. Your lot has been 
and still is, one of the most desirable in that great lottery 
where good tickets are so scarce, and where the great prize 
of continual happiness has never been gained by any one. 
Your philosophy has never been upset by chimeras which 
have sometimes perplexed tolerably good brains. You have 
never been in any sense a charlatan, nor the dupe of charla- 
tans, and that I reckon as a rare merit, which adds some- 
thing to the shadow of happiness that we are allowed 
to taste of in this short life." 

The Art of Speaking. — "You cannot but be convinced, 
that a man who speaks and writes with elegance and grace, 
who makes choice of good words, and adorns and em- 
bellishes the subject upon which he either speaks or writes, 
will persuade better, and succeed more easily in obtaining 
what he wishes, than a man who does not explain himself 
clearly, speaks his language ill, or makes use of low 
and vulgar expressions, and who has neither grace nor 
elegance in anything that he says. Now it is by rhet- 
oric that the art of speaking eloquently is taught ; and, 
though I cannot think of grounding you in it as yet, 
I would wish, however, to give you an idea of it suitable to 
your age." 

Keep Your Word. — " I am sure you know that breaking of 
your word is a folly, a dishonor, and a crime. It is a folly,, 
because nobody will trust you afterwards ; and it is both a 



164 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

dishonor and a crime, truth being the first duty of religion 
and morality ; and whoever has not truth cannot be 
supposed to have any one good quality, and must be- 
come the detestation of God and man. Therefore I expect 
from your truth and your honor, that you will do that 
which, independently of our promise, your own interest 
and ambition ought to incline you to do ; that is, to excel in 
everything you undertake. 

Inattention. — " There is no surer sign in the world, of 
a little, weak mind, than inattention. "Whatever is worth 
doing at all is worth doing well ; and nothing can be 
done well without attention. It is the sure answer of a fool 
when you ask him about anything that was said or 
done, where he was present, that ' truly he did not mind 
it.' And why did not the fool mind it? What had 
he else to do there, but to mind what was doing ? A 
man of sense sees, hears, and retains everything that 
passes where he is. I desire I may never hear you talk of 
not minding, nor complain, as most fools do, of a treacher- 
ous memory. Mind not only what people say, but how 
they say it; and, if you have any sagacity, you may 
discover more truth by your eyes than your ears. People 
can say what they will, but they cannot look what they 
will, and their looks frequently discover what their 
words are calculated to conceal. The most material knowl- 
edge of all— I mean the knowledge of the world — is not to 
be acquired without great attention. 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 165 

" The Well-Bred Man feels himself firm and easy in all 
companies; is modest without being bashful, and steady- 
without being impudent ; if he is a stranger, he observes, 
with care, the manners and ways of the people the most es- 
teemed at that place, and conforms to them with complai- 
sance. Instead of finding fault with the customs of that 
place, and telling the people that the English ones are a 
thousand times better (as my countrymen are very apt to 
do) he commends their table, their dress, their houses, and 
their manners, a little more, it may be, than he really thinks 
they deserve. But this degree of complaisance is neither 
criminal nor abject, and is but a small price to pay for the 
good will and affection of the people you converse with. As 
the generality of people are weak enough to be pleased with 
these little things, those who refuse to please them, so 
cheaply, are, in my mind, weaker than they. 

Insults and Injuries. — " However frivolous a company may 
be, still, while you are among them, do not show them, by 
your inattention, that you think them so ; but rather take their 
tone, and conform in some degree to their weakness, instead 
of manifesting your contempt for them. There is nothing 
that people bear more impatiently, or forgive less, than con- 
tempt; and an injury is much sooner forgotten than an 
insult. 

Lying. — '■ I really know nothing more criminal, more 
mean, and more ridiculous, than lying. It is the production 
either of malice, cowardice, or vanity ; and generally misses 



166 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

of its aim in every one of these views ; for lies are always 
detected, sooner or later. 

" If I tell a malicious lie, in order to affect any man's for- 
tune or character, I may indeed injure him for some time; 
fout 1 shall be sure to be the greatest sufferer myself at last ; 
■for as^oon as ever I am detected (and detected I most cer- 
tainly shall be), I am blasted for the infamous attempt ; and 
whatever is said afterwards, to the disadvantage of that per- 
son, however true, passes for calumny. If I lie or equivo- 
cate, for it is the same thing, in order to excuse myself for 
something that I have said or done, and to avoid the dan- 
ger or shame that I apprehend from it, I discover at once 
my fear, as well as my falsehood, and only increase, instead 
of avoiding the danger and the shame ; I show myself to be 
the lowest and meanest of mankind, and am sure to be al- 
ways treated as such. Fear, instead of avoiding, invites dan- 
ger ; for concealed cowards will insult known ones. If one 
has had the misfortune to be in the wrong, there is something 
noble in frankly owning it ; it is the only way of atoning for 
it, and the only way of being forgiven. Equivocating, evad- 
ing, shuffling, in order to remove a present danger or incon- 
venience, is something so mean, and betrays so much fear> 
that whoever practises them, always deserves to be, and 
often will be kicked. There is another sort of lies, inoffen- 
sive enough in themselves, but wonderfully ridiculous ; I mean 
those lies which a mistaken vanity suggests — that defeat the 
very end for which they are calculated, and terminate in the 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 167 

humiliation and confusion of their author, who is sure to be 
detected. These are chiefly narratives and historical lies, all 
intended to do infinite honor to their author. He is always 
the hero of his own romances ; he has been in dangers from 
which nobody but himself ever escaped ; he has seen with 
his own eyes whatever other people have heard or read of; 
he has had more bonnes fortunes than ever he knew wo- 
men ; and has ridden more miles post, in one day, than ever 
courier went in two. He is soon discovered and as soon be- 
comes the object of universal contempt and ridicule. 

" Eemember, then, as long as you live, that nothing but 
strict truth can carry you through the world, with either 
your conscience or your honor unwounded. It is not only 
your duty, but your interest ; as a proof of which, you may 
always observe, that the greatest fools are the greatest liars. 
For my own part, I judge of every man's truth by his de- 
gree^of understanding. 

Action/ Action/ — " Eemember the adage : do what you 
are about, be that what it will ; it is either worth doing well 
or not at all. Whoever you are, have (as the low, vulgar 
expression is) your ears and your eyes about you. Listen 
to everything that is said, and see everything that is done. 
Observe the looks and countenances of those who speak, 
which is often a surer way of discovering the truth than 
from what they say." 

Vulgar Scoffers. — " Eeligion is one of their favorite topics; 
it is all priestcraft, and an invention contrived and carried 



168 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

on by priests, of all religions, for their own power and 
profit. From this absurd and false principle flow the com- 
monplace insipid jokes and insults upon the clergy. 

" With these peojjle, every priest of every religion is either 
a public or a concealed unbeliever, drunkard, and whore- 
master, whereas I conceive that priests are extremely like 
other men, and neither the better nor the worse for wearing 
a gown or a surplice; but if they are different from other 
people, probably it is rather on the side of religion and mo- 
rality, or at least decency, from their education and manner 
of life. 

Advantage of Manners. — " Manners, though the last, and it 
may be the least ingredient of real merit, are, however, very 
far from being useless in its composition. They adorn and 
give an additional force and lustre to both virtue and knowl- 
edge. They prepare and smooth the way for the progress 
of both, and are, I fear, with the bulk of mankind, more en- 
gaging than either. 

" Eemember, then, the infinite advantage of manners ; 
cultivate and improve your own to the utmost : good sense 
will suggest the great rules to you, good company will do 
the rest." 

How to be Considerable. — " Upon the whole, if you have a 
mind to be considerable, and to shine hereafter, you must 
labor hard now. No quickness of parts, no vivacity, will do 
long or go far, without a solid fund of knowledge ; and that 
fund of knowledge will amply repay all the pains that you 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 169 

can take in acquiring it. Eeflect seriously, within yourself, 
upon all this, and ask yourself whether I can have any 
view but your interest in all that I recommend to you. 

No one Contemptible. — " Be convinced that there are no 
persons so insignificant and inconsiderable, but may some 
time or other, and in some thing or other, have it in their 
power to be of use to you ; which they certainly will not, if 
you have once shown them contempt. 

Woman. — " As women are a considerable, or at least a 
pretty numerous part of company, and as their suffrages go 
a great way towards establishing a man's character, in the 
fashionable part of the world (which is of great importance 
to the fortune and figure he proposes to make in it), it is 
necessary to please them. I will, therefore, upon this sub- 
ject, let you into certain arcana that will be very useful for 
you to know, but which you must, with the utmost care, 
conceal and never seem to know. Women, then, are only 
children of a larger growth ; they have an entertaining tattle 
and sometimes wit, but for solid, reasoning good sense, I 
never in my life knew one that had it, or who reasoned or 
acted consequentially for four and twenty hours together. 

" Some little passion or humor always breaks in upon 
their best resolutions. Their beauty neglected or contro- 
verted, their age increased, or their supposed understanding 
depreciated, instantly kindles their little passions, and over- 
turns any system of consequential conduct, that in their 
most reasonable moments they might have been capable of 



170 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

forming. A man of sense only trifles with them, plays with 
them, humors and flatters them, as he does with a sprightly, 
forward child ; but he neither consults them about, nor trusts 
them with serious matters; though he often makes them be- 
lieve that he does both, which is the thing in the world that 
they are proud of, for they love mightily to be dabbling in 
business (which, by the way, they always spoil) ; and being 
justly distrustful that men in general look upon them in a 
trifling light, they almost adore that man who talks more 
seriously to them, and who seems to consult and trust them. 
I say, who seems — for weak men really do, but wise ones 
only seem to do it. No flattery is either too high or too low 
for them. They will greedily swallow the highest, and 
gratefully accept the lowest, and you may safely flatter 
any woman, from her understanding down to the exquisite 
taste of her fan. Women who are indisputably beautiful or 
indisputably ugly, are best flattered upon the score of their 
understandings ;, but those who are in a state of mediocrity 
are best flattered upon their beauty, or. at least their graces, 
for every woman who is not absolutely ugly thinks herself 
handsome, but, not hearing often that she is so, is the more 
grateful and the more obliged to the few who tell her so; 
whereas a decided and conscious beauty looks upon the 
tribute paid to her beauty only as her due, but wants to 
shine and to be considered on the side of her understanding; 
and a woman who is ugly enough to know that she is so 
knows that she has got nothing left for it but her under- 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 171 

standing, which, is consequently (and probably in more senses 
than one) her weak side. But these are secrets which you 
must keep inviolably, if you would not, like Orpheus, be 
torn to pieces by the whole sex. On the contrary, a man 
who thinks of living in the great world must be gallant, po- 
lite and attentive to please the women. They have, from the 
weakness of men, more or less influence in all courts ; they 
absolutely stamp every man's character in the heart monde, 
and make it either current or cry it down, and stop it in 
payments. It is, therefore, absolutely necessary to manage, 
please and flatter them ; and never to discover the least mark 
of contempt, which is what they never forgive ; but in this 
they are not singular, for it is the same with men, who will 
much sooner forgive an injustice than an insult. 

Affectation. — "Any affectation whatsoever, in dress, implies, 
in my mind, a flaw in the understanding. Most of our young 
fellows, here, display some character or other by their dress ; 
some affect the tremendous, and wear a great and fiercely 
cocked hat, an enormous sword, a short waistcoat and a black 
cravat. These I should be almost tempted to swear the peace 
against, in my own defence, if I were not convinced that they 
are but meek asses in lions' skins. Others go in brown 
frocks, leather breeches, great oaken cudgels in their hands, 
their hats uncocked, their hair unpowdered ; and imitate 
grooms, stage-coachmen and country bumpkins so well in 
their outsides, that I do not make the least doubt of their re- 
sembling them equally in their in sides. A man of sense 



172 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

carefully avoids any particular character in his dress ; 
he is accurately clean for his own sake, but all the rest is for 
the other people's. He dresses as well, and in the same 
manner, as the people of sense and fashion of the pHce 
where he is. If he dresses better, as he thinks, that is, more 
than they, he is a fop ; but if he dresses worse, he is unpar- 
donably negligent ; but of the two, I would rather have a 
young fellow too much than too little dressed ; the excess on 
that side will wear off, with a little age and reflection ; but if 
he is negligent at twenty, he will be a sloven at forty, and 
stink at fifty years old. Dress yourself fine, where others 
are fine, and plain where others are plain, but take care al- 
ways that your clothes are well made and fit you, for otherwise 
they will give you a very awkward air. When you are once 
well dressed, for the day, think no more of it afterwards ; 
and, without any stiffness for fear of discomposing that dress, 
let all your motions be as easy and natural as if you had no 
clothes on at all. So much for dress, which I maintain to be 
a thing of consequence in the polite world. 

Temper. — " The principal of these things, is the mastery 
of one's temper, and that coolness of mind and serenity of 
countenance which hinder us from discovering, by words, 
actions, or even looks, those passions or sentiments by which 
we are inwardly moved or agitated ; and the discovery of 
which gives cooler and abler people such infinite advantages 
over us, not only in great business, but in all the most com- 
mon occurrences of life. A man who does not possess him- 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 173 

self enough to hear disagreeable things, without visible marks 
of anger and change of countenance, or agreeable ones with- 
out sudden bursts of joy and expansion of countenance, is at 
the mercy of every artful knave, or pert coxcomb ; the for- 
mer will provoke or please you by design, to catch unguarded 
words or looks, by which he will easily decipher the secrets 
'of your heart, of which you should keep the key yourself 
and trust it with no man living. 

A Father's Object. — " Dear boy, from the time that you 
have had life, it has been the principal and favorite object 
of mine, to make you as perfect as the imperfections of hu- 
man nature will allow. In this view, I have grudged no pains 
nor expense in your education, convinced that education, 
more than nature, is the cause of that great difference which 
we see in the characters of men. While you were a child, 
I endeavored to form your heart habitually to virtue and 
honor, before your understanding was capable of showing 
you their beauty and utility. Those principles, which you 
then got like your grammar rules only by rote, are now, I 
am pursuaded, fixed and confirmed by reason, and indeed 
they are so plain and clear, that they require but a very 
moderate degree of understanding, either to comprehend or 
practice them. Lord Shaftesbury says, very prettily, that he 
would be virtuous for his own sake, though nobody were to 
know it, as he would be clean for his own sake, though no- 
body were to see him. I have therefore, since you have had 
the use of your reason, never written to you upon those sub- 



174 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

jects. They speak best for themselves ; and I should, now, 
just as soon think of warning you gravely not to fall into the 
dirt or the fire, as into dishonor or vice. 

Learning and Politeness. — " I have often asserted, that 
the profoundest learning and the politest manners were by 
no means incompatible, though so seldom found united 
in the same person, and I have engaged myself to 
exhibit you as a proof of the truth of this assertion. 
Should you, instead of that, happen to disprove me, the 
concern indeed will be mine, but the loss will be yours. 
Lord Bolingbroke is a strong instance on my side of 
the question ; he joins, to the deepest erudition, the 
most elegant politeness and good-breeding that ever any 
courtier and man of the world was adorned with. And 
Pope very justly called him all-accomplished St. John, with 
regard to his knowledge and his manners. He had, it 
is true, his faults, which proceeded from unbounded 
ambition and impetuous passions ; but they have now 
subsided by age and experience ; and I can wish you 
nothing better than to be what he is now, without being 
what he has been formerly. His address pre-engages, 
his eloquence persuades, and his knowledge informs all 
who approach him. Upon the whole, I do desire and 
insist that from after dinner till you go to bed, you 
make good-breeding, address, and manners your serious ob- 
ject and your only care. Without them, you will be 
nobody ; with them, you may be anything. 



ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 175 

Hampden a Lesson. — " Lord Clarendon, in his history, says 
of Mr. John Hampden, that he had a head to contrive, 
a tongue to persuade, and a hand to execute, any mischief. 
I shall not now enter into the justness of this charac- 
ter of Mr. Hampden, to whose brave stand against the 
illegal demand of ship-money we owe our present liberties, 
but I mention it to you as the character, which, with the al- 
teration of one single word, good, instead of mischief, 
I would have you aspire to and use your utmost endeavors 
to deserve. The head to contrive, God must to a certain 
degree have given you ; but it is in your own power greatly 
to improve it, by study, observation and reflection. As for 
the tongue to pursuade, it wholly depends upon your- 
self ; and without it the best head will contrive to very little 
purpose. The hand to execute depends likewise, in my 
opinion, in a great measure upon yourself. Serious reflec- 
tion will always give courage in a good cause ; and the 
courage arising from reflection is of a much superior nature 
to the animal and constitutional courage of a foot sol- 
dier. The former is steady and unshaken, where the 
nodus is dignus vindice ; the latter is oftener improperly than 
properly exerted, but always brutally." 

Moral Character. — " Your moral character must be not only 
pure, but, like Caesar's wife, unsuspected. The least speck 
or blemish upon it is fatal. Nothing degrades and vilifies 
more, for it excites and unites detestation and contempt. 
There are, however, wretches in the world profligate enough 



176 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

to explode all notions of moral good and evil ; to maintain 
that they are merely local, and depend entirely upon 
the customs and fashions of different countries : nay, 
there are still, if possible, more unaccountable wretches ; 
I mean, those who affect to preach and propagate such 
absurd and infamous notions without believing them them- 
selves. These are the devil's hypocrites. Avoid as much 
as possible the company of such people, who reflect a 
degree of discredit and infamy upon all who converse with 
them. But as you may sometimes, by , accident, fall 
into such company, take great care that no complaisance, no 
good humor, no warmth of festal mirth, ever make 
you seem even to acquiesce, much less to approve or 
applaud, such infamous doctrines. On the other hand, 
do not debate nor enter into serious argument upon a' 
subject so much below it, but content yourself with telling 
these apostles, that you know they are not serious; that you 
have a much better opinion of them than they would 
have you have ; and that, you are very sure, they would not 
practice the doctrine they preach. But put your private 
mark upon them, and shun them for ever afterwards." 

Necessary Accomplishments. — "I here subjoin a list of 
all those necessary, ornamental accomplishments (without 
which no man living can either please or rise in the world) 
which hitherto I fear you want, and which only require 
your care and attention to possess. 

"To speak elegantly whatever language you speak in; 



ANCIENT AND MODEKN FASHION. 177 

without which nobody will hear you with pleasure, and, 
consequently, you will speak to very little purpose. 

"An agreeable and distinct elocution ; without which no- 
body will hear you with patience ; this everybody may 
acquire, who is not born with some imperfection in 
the organs of speech. You are not; and therefore it is 
wholly in your power. You need take much less pains for 
it than Demosthenes did. 

" A distinguished politeness of manners and address ; 
which common sense, observation, good company, and 
imitation, will infallibly give you, if you will accept of it. 

" A genteel carriage, and graceful motions, with the air of a 
man of fashion. A good dancing-master, with some care on 
your part, and some imitation of those who excel, will soon 
bring this about. 

" To be extremely clean in your person, and perfectly well 
dressed, according to the fashion, be that what it will. 
Your negligence of dress, while you were a schoolboy, 
was pardonable, but would not be so now. 

" Upon the whole, take it for granted, that, without these 
accomplishments, all you know, and all you can do, 
will avail you very little. Adieu. 

Aim High. — "Aim at perfection in everything, though in 

most things it is unattainable ; however, they who aim at it, 

and persevere, will come much nearer it than those 

whose laziness and despondency make them give it up 

as unattainable. Magnis tamen excidit ausis is a degree 
12 



178 ANCIENT AND MODERN FASHION. 

of praise which will always attend a noble and shining te- 
merity, and a much better sign in a young fellow, than 
serpere humi lulus nnniam timidusque procellce, for men 
as well as women." 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 179 



THE EMIGRANT— THE ADOPTED CITIZEN OF 
THE UNITED STATES, &c. 



"Good heav'n, what sorrows gloom'd that parting day, 
That call'd them from their native walks away, 
When the poor exiles ev'ry pleasure part, 
Hang round the bowers and wish'd in vaia 
For like these beyond the western main, 
And shuddering still to face the distant deep, 
Returned and wept, and still returned to weep." 

— Goldsmith's Deserted Village. 

" Take heed what you say, sir! an hundred honest men ? Why if there 
were so many in the city, 'twere enough to forfeit their city charter." 

— Shirley's Gamester. 

Perhaps there is no previous chapter in this book that 
requires more study, and which is more difficult to define, 
than the one that heads this article. In the first place, the 
newly-arrived emigrant in the United States, as a general 
thing, is dissatisfied with the country he has left. The 
hardships of the voj^age across the ocean, even in the most 
favorable time of the year, sorely tries the temper and dispo- 
sition of the cabin passenger, and, in a tenfold degree, the 
steerage voyager, as the worst of all berths aboard-ship is of 
course the steerage. The dissatisfaction of the emigrant is 
heightened beyond comparison at the unfeeling, and often- 



180 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 

times cruel usage that " the old country " (greenhorn) passen- 
ger has to endure, at the hands of the lower classes of the bad 
portion of the sovereign people of this Eepublic. Instead 
of giving a kindly greeting and welcome to the newly -landed 
stranger, his person and effects are looked upon as so much 
lawful plunder, and by the time he runs the gauntlet of the 
baggage smasher, bummers, thieves, dock runners, black- 
legs, gamblers, the emigrant boarding-house keepers, the 
swindling ticket agents, and bogus employment and ex- 
change offices, and countless other harpies, who systemati- 
cally defraud the luckless stranger, the greenhorn emi- 
grant frequently finds himself, very shortly after landing, 
worse than nothing ; jaded in spirits, fleeced of all money 
and worldly goods, thereby becoming a low, degraded pau- 
per. The emigrant passes through this unhappy state of ex- 
istence while living, or when dead is buried in some Potter's 
Field, unwept, unknown and uncared for. If the emigrant 
escapes these hardships and wishes to make this country his fu- 
ture home, he must carefully avoid the land pirates (generally 
his own countrymen) as he would a deadly pestilence. No 
matter how shrewd or courageous he was in the old country, 
he must get away with all speed from these infamous land- 
sharks. He will find oftentimes, when it is too late, that he 
has been victimized out of his last piece of money, by the 
specious pretences of the confidence and other swindling 
games of some scoundrels in disguise, who pass themselves 
off as the American friends to the emigrant. The latter 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 181 

miscreants are more to be dreaded than some unseen sunken 
rock, or the coast- wrecker, who holds out false signals or 
beacon lights to the storm-tossed mariner, in order that they 
may glut their desire for plunder when the vessel is wrecked. 
The politician and fourth of July stump orators, when 
they wish to flatter the adopted citizen and obtain his vote, 
assert that every emigrant that lands in America is a gain 
of $1,000 to the country of his adoption, even if he has not 
a cent in his pocket If this assertion be true, the Ameri- 
cans have a strange and very extravagant way of using and 
taking care of the emigrant, who lands on the American 
shore ; for the vital statistics too plainly show the sickness 
and burial of tens of thousands of emigrants, mainly brought 
about by the brutal and unfeeling ill-usage on land and sea. 
It is therefore to be sincerely hoped that the Northern people 
who waged the most destructive civil war on record, desolat- 
ing the sunny South to emancipate the black race, will with 
equal firmness make some laudable effort to save the lives 
and scanty property of the unfortunate emigrant white race, 
on the principles of impartial justice and equality before the 
law, " in the land of the free and the home of the brave." 
This is no exaggerated statement, but, on the contrary, is of 
a worse description than here described. Such scenes can 
be witnessed daily at any of the emigrant seaport landings 
of this Union. It is much to be deplored that up to the 
present time, no effective remedy appears to exist in sum- 
marily punishing the unconvicted criminals, who thrive 



182 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 

and prosper in setting all law, human and divine, at defi- 
ance, by robbing and cheating the defenceless emigrant, in- 
cluding the widow and orphans. Notwithstanding it is uni- 
versally acknowledged to be one of the most serious stig- 
mas that disgrace this great country. Is it to be wondered 
that the effete aristocracy points the finger of scorn at the 
young and old democracy of the New World ? How long 
this lamentable state of affairs will continue it is hard to 
state, from the fact that for many years past, our local and 
national legislators have been principally engaged in fram- 
ing questionable laws to elevate the African race on the 
one hand, and levy tax upon tax, and pile obnoxious tariff 
upon tariff, on the principle of how much can we personally 
make, because the so-called sovereign people have no rights 
which we are bound to respect. "What do we care, so long 
as we can enjoy a good fat office, and the emoluments there- 
of, for the suffering, laboring classes, the high cost of living, 
the stagnation of commerce, the annihilation of American- 
built shipping, an irredeemable paper currency, huge na- 
tional debt, the neglected laws that ought to protect the 
public, and swiftly punish defaulting government officials, 
and others who unblushing! y defraud the government to the 
extent of untold millions of dollars?" The majority of our 
present law-makers will answer all these allegations by their 
acts, but not expressed in words : What do we care as long 
as the people are our subservient tools, who vote for us and 
allow us to enjoy office ? How often do we hear the Ameri- 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 183 

can of the patriotic class, to the manor born, exclaim, that 
the teachings of George "Washington and the early revolu- 
tionary Fathers appear to be of no account nowadays. 
The adopted citizen of many years adds his voice in unison 
with the pure American sentiment — "Give me the country 
as I found it, not as it is," It being now the most oppres- 
sively taxed country in the world ; articles of luxury bear 
the smallest amount of tax, while indispensable products in 
daily consumption by the hard-working community bear, be- 
yond all odds, the larger share, in accordance with dishon- 
orable legislation, favoring the rich at the expense of the 
poor. The unprincipled law-maker, who will sell his coun- 
try for his country's gold, impliedly answers by his acts : 
What do we care about the sovereign people's rights so long 
as we can retain office, with its emoluments ? 

" Why should the sacred character of virtue 
Shine on a villain's countenance? Ye powers ! 
Why fixed you not a brand on treason's front, 
That we might know t' avoid perfidious monsters ?'"' — Dennis. 

This dissertation may appear to the reader to be wander- 
ing from the title of this chapter. "We say no, for, to use a 
vulgar phrase, it is simply letting the cat out of the bag by 
relating unpalatable truths, however unpleasant to the wily 
politician of an unscrupulous order, or, what may be better 
understood, radically striking at the root of evil that aims to 
cut out some of the many ulcers that grievously afflict the 
body politic of this magnificent yet shamefully misused 



184 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 

country. The more enlightened emigrant will at once per- 
ceive that the latter portion of this chapter is not a divul- 
gence from its title, but, on the contrary, important informa- 
tion for him by which to govern his course, if he intends to 
remain an adopted citizen of this country. Fortunately for 
the Americans, to the manor born, and their fellow-citizens by 
adoption, all the ills herein alluded to are of a transitory 
character, that can be remedied to a more or less degree by 
the unanimous uprising of the people, and doing their duty 
with the ballot in lieu of using the bullet. It is said the 
darkest hour is the one before the dawn.* It is hard work 
to bring daylight out of the darkness which appears to over- 
spread this land, where exists so much corruption and 
fraud. In very truth, if ever sacred history repeats itself, 
the comparison, in the author's opinion, holds good where 
our blessed Saviour whipped the thieves and money-chan- 
gers out of the Temple. A similar remedy of a more 
extended description is absolutely needed in this country, 
by banishing some of the well-known plunderers of the 
people's treasure. 

We join our voice in unison with that of an adopted 
citizen soldier who fought many a hard contested battle in 
the Union army, and say, " Let us have peace — and less 
taxes." 

* N. B. Form a new Political Honest Party, to be known and called 
the " Cosmopolitan Party." 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 185 

It is a very common mistake for the newly-arrived emi- 
grant to suppose that this is a land flowing with milk and 
honey, and that he will have little or no exertion to obtain 
the same. This is a delusion, for in nine cases out of ten he 
will have to work harder in this country than in the one he 
left. Another egregious mistake is apt to be made, that the 
manners, customs and dress of the country he has left are 
superior in pattern to those of his new acquaintances here. 
The sooner he obliterates these ideas the better. " When in 
Eome do as Eome does," is a good maxim to observe, so 
far as changing his personal attire to the fashion of the 
Americans. 

A stupid error is frequently made by the new-comer, in 
hanging around, spending his time and money in large 
cities that do not want his presence, while the more sparsely 
populated parts of the Union are always in want of the ser- 
vices of the industrious emigrant, and probably at a higher 
reward than he could obtain in the country he left, or the 
over-crowded American cities. 

The Commissioners of Emigration and the Commissioners 
of Charity and Correction, are twin Institutions, established 
for the benefit of the emigrant and the poor, but in reality so 
distorted and mismanaged that they are nothing more nor 
less than so many monopolizing political machines. The 
proper care of the poor emigrant, sick and insane, is quite a 
secondary consideration with them, and has become a very 
convenient hypocritical cloak, like many other public insti- 



186 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 

tutions, especially situated in the cities of New York, 
Albany, and the National Capitol, Washington, D. C. 

The mismanagement of the public institutions referred to, 
too unaptly are in fact the direct cause which compel 
the emigrant and poor to subsist as " at the Emigration, 
Ward's Island," on the lowest description of rations, and 
which has debarred them under pretended economy. To 
such an extent of tyranny has this become, that miserable 
humanity frequently arises in revolt " against the powers that 
be." The aristocratic nabob commissioners, under the 
feigned name of benefactors of the poor, quickly put down, 
with the aid of the Metropolitan police force, the outbreak, 
punishing the mutineers for their audacity in demanding the 
just enforcement of laws and the proper expenditure of the 
people's money. A portion of these assertions can be sub- 
stantiated by visiting and examining the internal working 
and system of the Castle Garden Emigrant Depot, the Office 
of Outdoor Eelief, Third Avenue ; Bellevue Hospital, Black- 
well's Island Penitentiary, Lunatic Asylum, &c, Ward's, Ran- 
dall's and Hart's Islands, and various institutions of charity 
and correction. These being a few of the many public insti- 
tutions where the people's money is so lavishly misapplied 
in j)aying large salaries and sub rosa contracts, &c. 

It is commonly remarked by distinguished foreigners, 
citizens, and others who have been invited and accepted the 
princely hospitalities of the city fathers, that the above in- 
stitutions are evidently established for the benefit, profit and 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 187 

luxurious ease of the said commissioners and their political 
partisans. 

The emigrant, pauper, and others, who have occasion to 
traverse this great continent, will find to their sorrow that 
many of the guardians of the poor are like the rich man of 
old (as described in Scripture), and that the supplicant for 
relief, like Lazarus, will only receive the crumbs that fall 
from the rich man's table ; therefore let them not believe 
that they will meet many true friends. The conclusion will 
evidently be forced upon them that their best friend is 
money, aided by their working brains and toiling hands, 
being the natural gifts from God to the rich and poor alike. 

The reader of the preceding pages, as a matter of course, 
will infer that the denunciatory remarks of corruption and 
fraud practised in high places, tyrannical oppression, and 
especially in the collection of taxes and the management of 
various institutions of a public character, are all of a quali- 
fied form, andean be easily abated by the voice and votes of 
the people — the whole country being ripe for a change in 
the administration of public affairs, the basis of the change 
to be fair dealing between man and man, in view of the 
corruption practised and unblushingly advocated by a few 
dare-devil spirits (not forgetting gold-gamblers, railroad and 
fraudulent stock speculators) who overawe and circumvent 
their better-meaning and more honest associates. It is to be 
hoped that this change will soon transpire for the sake of 
millions of people who now inhabit, and millions more who 



188 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 

would flock in increased numbers to this country, and gladly 
become citizens in upholding the flag and the glorious insti- 
tutions of our common country. When the emigrant has 
adopted the enterprising spirit of the Americans, and has 
concluded to make this Union his permanent home, carefully 
preparing his plans accordingly, he will find plenty of room 
for skill and energy in all the legitimate walks of life, pro- 
vided he maintains the dignified character of being a steady, 
sober, law-abiding citizen. The native Americans are not 
unlike the aborigines, for neither race place a very high 
value on land as compared with the Europeans. It is not to 
be wondered at, considering the almost unlimited expanse of 
this vast continent. One of the most popular rules in this 
country is "When you are sure you are right go ahead; 
never give up the ship ;" try until you succeed in selecting 
the most suitable and profitable occupation, and remember 
Grod assists those who assist themselves. An enterprising 
adopted citizen willingly devotes his attention and money 
to the purchase of real estate. Singular to relate, that when 
he once secures a settlement in his new home, he frequently 
astonishes the American natives at his marvellous success, 
and is looked upon by his admiring fellow-citizens as a 
wonderfully smart fellow, or, as the Irish jestingly say, " Now 
that I have got a pig and a cow, everybody says good-mor- 
row." The adopted citizen, who probably never owned an 
inch of land in the old country, finds himself, after reason- 
able exertion, in the possession of fixed property, say, a 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 189 

house and lot, a farm, a mammoth store, or broad acres, 

comprising a lordly domain in the New World. 

" Freedom of the press ; freedom of person and protection of habeas 
corpus, and trial by juries impartially selected." — Jeffersoh. 

Liberty ! Charity ! Correction ! Oh ! what numerous 
crimes and humbugs are committed in thy name. Our 
English cousins, and others of the Caucasian race, will 
perhaps be a little surprised to learn that in the City 
and State of New York there are two separate and distinct 
forms of laws, one that upholds the principles of the consti- 
tution, combined with the freedom, justice, and protec- 
tion conferred by Magna Charta; the more modern law, 
surreptitiously enacted, abolishes the fundamental principles 
of both those laws, the latter so revered by the English, 
who are, if possible, outrivalled by the law-abiding 
classes of the Americans who love and revere both those 
famed laws. 

Notwithstanding " to make odious laws more odious," 
is to enforce them, it is further asserted that the war is over, 
yet unlawful arbitrary arrests still continue. In proof, any 
contemptible scoundrel and evil-disposed villain can, in 
company with another of equal turpitude and atrociousness, 
go before various presiding magistrates and make complaint 
under sworn affidavits, and ask for a committal warrant 
to arrest his innocent victim, under the pretence that he 
is an habitual, confirmed drunkard ; on the mere fact of 
an ipse dixit of the complainant, the law-abiding citizen 



190 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 

is forcibly arrested, deprived of the possession of his liberty 
and property, and incarcerated in one of the Inebriate 
asylums of the State, there to remain at the pleasure of his 
unprincipled persecutors, in order that they may, in 
many instances during his absence, despoil him more or less 
of his worldly goods, &c. The prisoner, a victim of false 
imprisonment by means of false oaths, is not examined 
under these circumstances, by any committing magistrate, 
nor does he receive the common privileges accorded to 
the greatest criminal, or the one that is guilty of the 
smallest crime. 

All these high-handed outrages are, we may say, perpetra- 
ted and. abetted under the jurisdiction and. knowledge of 
the Commissioners of Charity and Correction ; while 
the generality of the people suppose they are administering 
impartial justice and Christian charity to their unfortunate 
fellow-mortals ! To such an extent has this villainous 
tyranny become that oftentimes all communications are 
rigidly excluded from the prisoner, thereby preventing him 
from the assistance of friends, or the advice of counsel 
whose duty it is to cause a writ of habeas corpus to be 
served upon said Commissioners to bring their prisoner 
before a just magistrate for examination — a proceeding 
attended with considerable expense and loss of time to 
the falsely imprisoned, which frequently terminates in sick- 
ness and death of the unfortunate prisoner. " Facts are stub- 
born things," and it behooves the enlightened community to 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 191 

rigidly investigate and, if possible, do away with these 
untold villainies. The same maltreatment the alleged 
inebriate receives under a false oatb, and the obtaining of a 
committal warrant, is also applicable to the sane and insane 
who are unceremoniously sent to any of the Insane 
Asylums that the interested persecutors may desire. In 
immuring the sane with the insane on the principles of the 
letters di cachet, in any of these modern Bastiles, according to 
the form of arbitrary laws, it is necessary that the certificate 
be signed by two honorable or unprincipled physicians, as 
the case maybe, by the interested complainants, to suit their 
nefarious ends, by the absence and restraint of the 
kidnapped individual. Such are some of the expedients 
that are unfortunately resorted to as law in this free and en- 
lightened country. 

It is alleged that fashion is like a great tyrant 
who governs all. We therefore take the liberty ot 
reproducing an early quotation of this work : " Wher- 
ever we go, whatever we do, whatever we are, 
Fashion holds the wand of power over us, more 
blandly, but not less imperiously than the sceptre of empire 
was swayed by the Caesars.'" If this quotation is correct 
in principle, the author, viz., "Cosmopolitan the First," 
claims the prerogative to introduce any subject within 
his grasp and to delineate it by the power of the pen, 
aided by his professional sceptre., the shears, in cutting 
out passages from sacred, profane, and modern history. 



192 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 

It will be observed from the dissertation just given upon 
the Emigrant, that, philosophically speaking, are we all 
in this migratory world emigrants. What has been the 
foundation of any nation or communities of people, but 
emigrants? It is therefore of the highest importance 
in the advancement and well-being of all nations that the 
emigrant should be hospitably received and taken care of 
according to his usefulness and deserts, and not, as is the 
common usage, treated with cold indifference on his arrival 
in this country. Instead of trying to make him a useful 
member of society, he is more frequently treated as if 
he were a criminal. The emigrant has hardly recovered 
from the mortifications and sorrows that previously sur- 
rounded his path, when another pang, more severe than all 
previous ones, stabs his very heart — especially if he is 
the parent of a young family. He will wonder, with more 
than ordinary amazement, how quickly his children have re- 
ceived the poison, and followed the pernicious example and 
unfilial manner with which insolent portions of "Young 
America " too often treat their parents. In the composition 
of this work, the reader will always understand commen- 
dable exceptions offer a bright example to the civilized 
world, how the junior American loves, reveres, and delights 
in obeying the lawful commands of his parents. It is a 
singular fact, and probably, when more minutely studied by 
the emigrant, who has been brought up in the land of his 
birth to rigidly obey and revere his parents, the reverse is 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 193 

too often the case in this great Republic, whose fundamental 
doctrine is that "all men are bora free and equal,'' a senti- 
ment that is very laudable and noble in inspiration, but, un- 
fortunately for the good intentions of the founders of 
this republican system, it is one of the rocks upon which 
rising generations too frequently split. Their love of inde- 
pendence is so abused that it unknowingly descends into the 
vilest impudence and ingratitude. It is therefore not to be 
wondered at that he is the first to hear the hiss of the 

serpent, 

" How sharper than a serpent's tooth it is 
To have a thankless child !" 

— King Lear. 

or feel the scorpion's sting from the child, to its parent. 
"Shame! oh shame ! where is thy blush ?" To the refined 
mind and sensitive heart, what can be more distressing in 
attempting to realize the countless evils that this destructive 
cancer brings? It too frequently reverses and undermines 
the natural affections and benign principles of our natuie; 
the disrespectful and undutiful conduct that many ignorant 
children, especially in this country, show their parents, of- 
tentimes accompanied with the most unnatural, hard-hearted 
treatment, instead of being the natural support and protec- 
tors of their parents, they are often the first to do them a 
wrong, deride, and insolently scoff at their kind advice and 
lawful authority. 

" Train np a child in the way he should go, and when he is old he will 
not depart from it." — PiiOV. 22 : 6. 

13 



194 THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN. 

It is not to be wondered at, so long as the prevailing prac- 
tice sanctions ignorant young America to disregard with in- 
difference and contempt the teachings of their seniors, as 
being old fogy ideas, and unworthy of their notice and 
respect. 

In' support of the latter remarks, the writer quotes from a 
modern American author : * 

"The great reason of the failure of a broad, glowing 
friendship between parents and children — a failure so de- 
plorable in our homes — is the lack in their characters of 
of that wealth, nobleness, sweetness, patience, aspirations, 
which would irresistibly draw them to each other in natural 
honor, love, and joy. The only remedy for this unhappy 
failure is the cure of its unhappier cause. Whatever makes 
characters deep, rich, pure, and gentle in themselves, tends 
to make them pleasing to each other. It is absurd to sup- 
pose that many hateful and miserable sauls will love each 
other simply because they are connected by ties of consan- 
guinity, of interest or duty. Whatever makes us suffer, 
especially whatever injures our finer emotions — even a 
mother, a son, a father, a daughter, may become such an 
object, as is illustrated with melancholy frequency. But 
when parents and children possess those higher qualities of 
soul, which naturally give pleasure, create affection, and 
evoke homage ; and when they are not separated, or too 

* William Eounsville Alffer. 



THE EMIGRANT — THE ADOPTED CITIZEN". 195 

much distracted in alien pursuits, a firm and ardent friend- 
ship must spring up between them. * * * * 

"To honor one's parents is the first Scriptural command- 
ment with promise. It is a habit which no one will ever re- 
gret. But, alas ! how many a man, how many a woman, 
has knelt on the grave where father or mother lay moulder- 
ing, and has lamented, with burning tears of shame and sor- 
row, the disobedience, disrespect, unkindness, and neglect 
shown in earlier years. How have they longed to lift up 
the faded forms from their coffins, to reanimate them, and to 
have them again in their homes, that, by unwearied minis- 
trations of tenderness, they might atone for the upbraiding 

past. 

" ' Mother ! tliou art mother still, 

Only the body dies ; 
Such love as bound thy heart to me, 

Death only purifies,' " 



CORRESPONDENCE. 
TRIBUTES FROM THE LIVING, 

AND 

MEMENTOES FEOM THE DEPARTED. 



CORRESPONDENCE. 

Copied. Verbatim from tlie Original -Ajutograplis 

IN THE POSSESSION OF 

GrEORG-E r». FOX. 



Letters from the late DANIEL WEBSTER. 

Astor House, May 28, 1852. 
Dear Sir : 

If my K'kaban is done, I should be glad it might be sent to me this 
morning, as I need it for travelling, this warm weather. 
I leave the city at 1 o'clock to-day. 

Trs. respectfully, 



DANIEL WEBSTER. 



Geo. P. Fox, Esq. 



Boston, May 22, 1852. 

Geo. P. Fox, Esq., New York : 

Dear Sir, — I have received your letter of the 21st inst., in relation to 
my summer paletot. I shall be in New York in the course of next week, 
and will call as you suggest at your establishment, if I feel able, but I 
would prefer that you should send it to the Astor House on Tuesday 
forenoon, 

Yours, truly, 

DANIEL WEBSTER 



200 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Washington, April 30, 1852. 
Dear Sir : 

The suit of clothes you were so kind as to send me, fitted admirably 
well. They are exceedingly handsomely made, of fine material, and are 
really elegant — too elegant, I fear, for me. The K'haban is a very nice 
article, and I like it much. I wish yon to furnish me one of lighter mate- 
rial, and lighter color, and sleeves not so deep, for spring and summer 
use. I expect to be at the Astor House on Monday, and shall pass the 
afternoon there, and should be glad if you would send me a few patterns, 
gray, drab, or some other color, from which I can make a selection. 

Yours, truly, 

DANIEL WEBSTER. 
George P. Fox, Esq., Merchant Tailor, New York. 



Washington, June 8, 1852. 
Geotjge. P. Fox, Esq., New York : 

Dear Sir, — I have received the K'haban, which you sent me a few days 
ago, and am much pleased with it. It is the most comfortable and easy- 
fitting summer garment that I have ever worn. 
I am, Sir, your 

Obed't. Serv't., 

DANIEL WEBSTER. 



Letters from G. J. ABBOT, Esq., the Private Secketary to the 
late Honorable DANIEL WEBSTER. 

Washington, D. C, Nov. 28, 1852. 
Dear Sir: 

In reply to your note received a few days since, I have to inform you 

that Mr. Webster was interred in his best blue coat, being the one which 

he had received from your establishment, as I understood, a short time 

previous to his de?„th. 

Yours, very respectfully, 

G. J. ABBOT. 

George P. Fox, Esq., New York. 



LIVING- AND DEPARTED. 201 

Washington, Dee, 3. 1852. 
Erastus Brooks, Esq.: 

My Dear Sir, — I enclose a letter to Mr. Fox, which I hope is satisfac- 
tory. 

When Mr. Webster was writing- his Historical Address, he received 
from Mr. Fox his card, handsomely engraved, on which was the figure of 
a fox running, and the motto "faire sans dire" I was struck with the 
appearance of the card, and placed it in a conspicuous situation, so that it 
should attract Mr. Webster's attention. He was dictating to me one of 
his most carefully prepared passages, that on the 37th page. He was 
walking backwards and forwards, and had got as far as the words " long 
foresight," when he paused to consider now to complete the sentence. 
At that moment his eye fell on Mr. Fox's card. He took it up, looked at- 
tentively at it, and then added, in a loud tone, what follows on that page 
down to "dire," bursting at the same time into a loud, ringing laugh, re- 
marked, " Thank Mr. Fox for that idea," When he received his K'haban, 
after trying it on and admiring its easy and genteel fit, I asked him if I 
should acknowledge the receipt of it. He said he would dictate the letter 
himself I gave the pen to an attendant, and he dictated the three lines 
which afterwards appeared in Mr. Fox's advertisement. This letter after- 
wards became famous again by an article in the Boston Courier of Octo- 
ber 18th or 20th, as the identical Blatchford Letter, to which I hope yo.a 
will call Mr. Fox's attention. 

Yours, truly, 

G. J. ABBOT. 
Erastus Brooks, Esq:, Editor New York Express, 



Washington, June 28, 1854. 
G. P. Fox, Esq. ; 

Dear Sir, — I enclose herewith a private note to our consul, Mr. Saun- 
ders, bespeaking for you his kindly services. 

Fours, truly, 

G. J. ABBOT. 



202 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Extract from Mr. WEBSTER'S Address before the New York 
Histor'Cax Society. 

The following most eloquent extract is the one in which Mr. Webster 
in his celebrated address before the N. Y. Historical Society, Feb. 23d, 
1853, introduced Mr. Fox's motto as above related : 

" Let this day ever be remembered. It saw assembled from the several 
colonies, those great men whose names have come down to us and will 
descend to all posterity. 

" Their proceedings are remarkable for simplicity, dignity, and un- 
equaled ability. At that day, probably, there could have been convened 
on no part of this globe an equal number of men, possessing greater 
talents and ability, or animated by a higher or more patriotic motive. 
They were men, full of the spirit of the occasion, imbued deeply with the 
general sentiment of the country, of large comprehension, of long fore- 
sight, and of few words. They made no speeches for ostentation, they 
sat with closed doors, and their great maxim was 'faire sans dire.' 

"It is true, they only wrote; but the issuing of such writings, on such 
authority, and at such a crisis, was action, — high, decisive, national ac- 
tion. They knew the history of the past ; they were alive to all the diffi- 
culties and all the duties of the present, and they acted from the first, as 
if the future were all open before them. Peyton Randolph was unani- 
mously chosen President, and Charles Thompson was appointed Secretary. 
In such a constellation, it would be invidious to point out the bright par- 
ticular stars. Let me only say, what none can consider injustice to others, 
that George Washington was one of the number." 



The Dress in which WEBSTER was Entombed. 

Daniel Webster, like some other gifted men that have brightened the 

age they have lived in, was great in everything. He respected the 

opinions and the customs of his country and of his time, in all points that 

merited his observation. But he would never change materially his style 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 203 

of dress while lie lived, nor would lie allow it to be done after he was 
dead. He left special directions to have. his body after decease clothed in 
the garments he used to wear in the Senate of the United States; and 
those who bent over his coffin recognized that mighty form, robed in the 
same vest and the same blue dress coat, with the velvet collar and gold- 
wove cloth buttons, that he had last worn when he sat at the head of his 
own table, and was diffusing joy and beneficence around the glad circle 
gathered there to enjoy his hospitality. Nearly all the celebrated tailors 
of the country sought the privilege, at some period of his life, of making 
for him something to wear ; but no one seems to have suited his taste so 
perfectly as Mr. George P. Fox ; for not long before he died, Mr. Webster 
had ordered from him this same chaste, but richly made blue dress coat, 
and it was his desire that he might wear it to his tomb. Mr. Fox has re- 
ceived many compliments for the matchless skill he displays in his art — 
and he has studied it as an art, like an artist ; but the highest honor that 
has ever been paid to his genius as a costumer, was paid by the great de- 
parted statesman of Marshfleld. — New York paper. 



Deposition of GEORGE P. FOX, taken before Mayor TIEMANN, 
of the City of New York. 

City and County of New York, ss. 

George P. Fox, being duly sworn, deposes and says, that the piece of 
cloth hereto annexed is part of the same piece from which deponent made 
a blue dress coat to order for the late Hon. Daniel Webster, on the 25th 
February, 1852 ; and deponent has been informed by letter, by G. J. Abbot, 
Esq., the Private Secretary of Mr. Webster, that the said coat was worn 
by Mr. Webster in his lifetime,, together with a buff vest and black cassi- 
mere pantaloons, and in accordance with the request of Mr. Webster on 
his death-bed, he was buried in the said suit of clothes of deponent's manu- 
facture as above set forth. 

Sworn to before me, this [ 
12th day of August, 1 859. \ 

DANIEL F. TIEMANN, Mayor. 



204: CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Letters from MILLARD FILLMORE, Ex-President op the 
United States. 

Washington, July 3, 1851. 
Sir: 

On my return from a sliort trip to Virginia, I liad the pleasure to receive 
your favor of the 17th June, together with a fine specimen of black cassi- 
mere, which you have kindly presented for my acceptance, and for which 
I beg to return my acknowledgments. 

I should be very happy to avail myself of your kind offer to make me a 
pair of pantaloons, but the truth is, I have found it more difficult to pro- 
cure a perfectly fitting pair of pantaloons than any other garment, and on 
that account I have no pair which I should be willing to send on as a 
pattern. My son, to whom I have shown your letter, desires me to say 
that his stays, when passing through New York, have generally been very 
short, but he hopes at some time to give you a call. 

Yours truly, 

MILLARD FILLMORE. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., New York. 



Washington, July 15, 1851. 
Sir: 

I am this morning in receipt of your favor of the 12th inst., and shall 
be pleased to comply with your request to retain the cassimere I received 
from you, until your next visit to Washington, that you may be enabled 
to make it up. 

Very truly yours, 

MILLARD FILLMORE. 

George P. Fox, Esq., New York. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 205 

Washington, Feb. 4, 1853. 
George P. Fox, Esq., Merchant Tailor, New York : 

Sir,— As it is possible that I may go South instead of North, at the close 
of my administration, I should be pleased to receive the suit of clothes 
which you are to make for me, at your earliest convenience, that any 
defect may be remedied before I leave this city. 

Respectfully yours, 

MILLARD FILLMORE. 



Washington, Feb. 8, 1853. 
Me. Geo. P. Fox, New York : 

Sir, — Your letter of the 5th came to hand this morning', and in reply to 
your suggestion I would say, that I should be happy to see yourself and 
your foreman at your earliest convenience, in reference to the fitting of the 
suit of clothes which you are to make for me. 

I am 

Respectfully yours, 

MILLARD FILLMORE. 



Letters prom Genl. FRANKLIN PIERCE, Ex-President op the 
United States. 

Washington, D. C., 18th July, 1853. 
My dear Sir : 

The President found your note of the 9th inst. awaiting, with many 
others, his return from New Yoik, and he desires me to express to you 
the extreme mortification he feels to learn that the reception of your 
tasteful suit of clothes, forwarded some months since, has not been ac- 
knowledged. 

The garments were all admirably adapted to the figure, considering 
the circumstances under which they were made, and will not require any 
alteration. * 

* Was measured and fitted by Mr. Fox, simply by the eye. 



206 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

The President desires me to assure you that lie appreciates the kind- 
ness and generosity which prompted so handsome a gift. 
With high regard, I am, 

Yr. friend and servant, 

SIDNEY WEBSTER. 

Geo. P. Fox, Esq., Merchant Tailor, Broadway, 

New York City. 



Washington, D. C, 17 th May, 1854. 

George P. Fox, Esq. : 

Sir, — The President's coachman and footman are in need of box coats 
for summer. I wish you to send, as early as possible, coats suitable for 
them in material and size. The cloth should be wool, but as thin as a 
regard for strength and durability will allow. The color I wish to be 
more distinct and decided than that of the coats you made in the winter. 
It must be a handsome blue, not light blue, nor very dark, but a medium. 
As to size, they should be cut to wear without any other coats under 
them. The buttons to be plain black. The length of skirt, I suppose 
need not be much longer than an ordinary frock coat. Perhaps you may 
like to put pocket-flaps upon the hips, to give the coat a distinctive char- 
acter as a box coat. It should be made of as thin goods as will bear the 
pxilling on and off, which strong men always subject their garments to 
when in haste. 

Also, you may send for them each a pair of pants of the same material, 
or perhaps thinner, if you can get it, of the same color. Send me bill, for 
the President, with goods. 

Truly yours, 

SIDNEY WEBSTER. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 207 

Washington, D. C IWi July, 1855. 
Dear Sir: 

I return the sample of the goods selected for the coat. Probably no 
suggestion concerning the style or make of the garments is necessary. 
As it is to be a dress coat, the style will be the same, I suppose, as ,a dress 
coat of cloth. As it is to be for summer wear, and of light goods, it 
should be made up as light as possible, consistent with neatness of fit to 
the person. Would not nice grass cloth, or very fine hair cloth, be the 
best for stiffening about the chest, instead of heavy cloth ? 

As to-day is Thursday, I hope you will be able to forward the coat by 

the middle of next week. 

Truly, yours, 

SIDNEY WEBSTER. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., New York. 



Washington, D. C, 21st July, 1853. 
My dear Sir: 

The black overcoat, to which you refer, was a most excellent fit, consider- 
ing the circumstances under which it was made, and is considered by the 
President a most appropriate and a tasteful garment. 

If I can be of any further service to you in any way, you must not fail 
to command me. It will give me pleasure to serve you always. 
With high regard, 

Your friend and obed't. serv't., 

SIDNEY WEBSTER. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., Merchant Tailor. 



AN INCIDENT IN THE LIFE OF THE AUTHOR. 
On the receipt of the above note, the late ever-tobe-lamented Senator 
James, of Rhode Island, a kind friend and customer of the author, the 
very embodiment of the fully formed, developed man, being present 



208 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

giving liis order for clothes, in tlie author's establishment, No. 333 
Broadway, we handed him the open letter, at the same time asking 
him for his opinion and verbal reply to its contents. [All must know 
the late senator, who unfortunately lost his life in the prime of man- 
hood, by the explosion of an ordnance gun of his own invention.] 
He replied, " Why, Fox, your fortunes are made in advance ; all that you 
have to do is to go on to Washington, D. C, and call upon the President, 
Franklin Pierce. Rest assured that whatever office, in his gift, and that 
you think yourself qualified to fill, you can obtain, including the emolu- 
ments and pay of the same." 

The author replied, " My name is Fox, one that walks on two legs ; 
but it seems to me that you take me to be a jackass. Do you think I 
would be such a fool as to accept any office in the gift of the people? Sir, I 
have a good office of my own, a good wife, and fine stalwart children, and 
a prosperous mercantile business. I, therefore, decline to subject myself 
to the loss of a permanent, profitable business, and risk being turned 
out of office on the incoming of the next unknown administration." And 
so we say up to the present time. Furthermore this deponent saith not. 



Correspondence with the Hon. STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS. 

Washington, D. C, July, 31, 1852. 
My dear Sir : 

Herewith you will find a draft by Selden, Withers & Co., on the Bank 
of Commerce, in your favor, in full for your bill. 

Respectfully, your obed't serv't, 

S. A. DOUGLAS. 

Mr. George P. Fox, New York. 
P. S. — Please acknowledge receipt. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 209 

Correspondence with the NAVY DEPARTMENT. 

Nayt Department, June 26, 1852. 

Sir: 

In reply to your letter of the 25tli inst., addressed to the Chief Clerk of 

the Department, I have to inform you that the patterns referred to in the 

Uniform Regulations will probably be received in a few days, when a copy 

will be sent to you. 

I am, respectfully, 

Tour obed't serv't, 

WM. A. GRAHAM. 
Mr. Geokge P. Fox, 

Broadway, New York. 



Correspondence with the late Commodore MATHEW C. PERRY 
and GEORGE P. FOX. 

Navy School, Annapolis, Md., 

June 3, 1852. 
Dear Sir: — 

If you have not yet put the lace on my coat and pantaloons, I will 

thank you not to do so until my return to New York, as I have some 

doubt whether it will not be better to use English imported lace. 

Respectfully, 

Your obed't serv't, 

M. C. PERRY. 
George P. Fox, 

Broadway, New York. 



Will Mr. Brown, at the Naval Store-keeper's office at the Navy Yard, 

please give to Mr. Fox the name of the Contractor for blue flannel for the 

Navy? 

M. C. PERRY. 

14 



210 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Mr. Horseman : — 

Please deliver to the bearer (Mr. G. P. Fox) my cap. 

M. C. PERRY. 
June 23d, 1852. 



Mr. Gustavtts A. Ratz : 

Please deliver to Mr. George P. Fox, or liis order, my new sword-belt 
and epaulets. 

M. C. PERRY. 
At Mr. Belmont's office, 

corner of Beaver and Hanover streets. 



Correspondence with the DEPARTMENT OF STATE. 

Department of State, Washington, 
October 2d, 1852. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., 

333 Broadway, N. Y. 
Sir, — As requested in your note of the 29th ult., I send herein a de- 
scription of the uniform for U. S. Consuls, recommended in the instructions 
from the Department. It is proper to state that it is not obligatory upon 
Consuls to adhere closely to the same, but they are left free to adopt such 
other dress as may be suited to the place of their respective residence. 
The Department has never caused any drawings to be made of a Consul's 
full dress, otherwise they should have accompanied the inclosed. 
I am, Sir, respectfully, 

Your obed't serv't, 

C. M. CONRAD, 
Acting Secretary. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 211 

Washington, January 28, 1854. 

Dear Sir : — 

I have been requested by Mr. G. P. Fox, a highly respectable person 

who is engaged in an extensive business in New Vork, as a merchant 

tailor, to address you a line in behalf of his son, who is about to visit 

Europe on matters connected with business, and to express the hope tha 

you may be able, without inconvenience, to facilitate the objects he has 

in view. I take occasion to inclose a Consular list corrected to date. 

I remain, sir, 

Very respectfully, 

Your obed't serv't, 

GEORGE I. ABBOT, 

Consular Bureau. 
George N. Sanders, Esq., 

IT. S. Consul, London, England. 



Letter of the Hon. THOMAS CORWIN, Introducing Mr. Geo. 
P. Fox to Gen'l. Winfield Scott. 

Washington, D. C, Dec. 22cl, 1852. 
Dear General : — 

This note will be presented to you by Geo. P. Fox, emperor of all the 

wide-world dominion of Tailordom. Mr. Fox furnishes all the clothing 

in vogue for civil and military gentlemen, and begs of me the favor of 

this note of introduction. 

Very truly yours, 

THOS. CORWIN. 
Major Gen'l. Scott. 



Correspondence with the Hon. EDWARD EVERETT. 
It would be convenient to Mr. Everett to receive the garments ordered 
of Mr. Fox some weeks since. 
Washington, Feb. 14, 1853. 
Mr. George P. Fox, Broadway, New York. 



212 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Correspondence with the IIon. HORACE GREELEY, Editor of 

toe New York Tribune. 
Mr. Fox-.— 

I di \ not receive your bill with my clothes. Please send it by bearer, 

and oblige 

Yours, 

HORACE GREELEY. 
Geo. P. Fox, Broadway, 

New York, July 7, 1854. 



Letter from ROBERT BEALE, formerly Sergeant-at-Arms of 
the United States Senate. 

Senate Chamber, Feb. 18, 1852. 
Dear Sir: 

I bave seen a variety of specimens of the work of Mr. Fox, who bears 

this, and I take great pleasure in introducing him as a gentleman who 

stands at the head of his profession. He is very appropriately styled the 

Leader of Fashion. He is here for the purpose of getting orders from 

gentlemen who desire to have garments made fashionable, durable, and 

tasteful. I have given him an order for a suit for myself, which I was 

induced to do from examining the neatness, and, indeed, beauty of the 

mechanical execution of his work. 

ROBERT BEALE, 
To George P. Fox, Esq., 

333 Broadway, New York. 

Senate Chamber, March 15, 1852. 
My Dear Sir :— 

I acknowledge with great pleasure the receipt of the suit you made for 

me ; it suits me exactly ; in point of material, quality, color, fit, finish, 

and neatness of execution nothing can be more perfect ; they fit with all 

the ease of an old suit, Avhile they exhibit all the polish of a new. I 

would not have the alteration of a hair in any one of the vestments, and 

I beg you to preserve my measure. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 213 

You will be good enough to make a summer suit at your convenience ; 

the material, color, and, in short, all that appertains to them, I leave to 

your superior taste and judgment. A lady complimented you by saying 

my suit was neatly beautiful. 

With my best wishes, I remain, 

Your friend and obed't serv't, 

ROBERT BEALE. 
To George P. Fox, Esq., 

833 Broadway, New York. 

Correspondence with the Hon. G. W. WRIGHT, ex-Member op 
Congress prom California. 

House op Reps., Washington, D. C, 

December 4, 1850. 
My Dear Sir : — 

Please get me up a bona fide Navy blue dress coat, first quality, gilt 
buttons, and a pair of first quality black doeskin pants, and forward the 
same forthwith by Adams' Express. 

Please send us a few of your cards. 

Very respectfully, 

G. W. WRIGHT. 
Mr. Fox, Merchant Tailor, 

Broadway, N Y. 



Willard's Hotel, Washington, D. C„ 

January 22, 1853. * 
My Dear Fox : — 

Your very kind favor of the 15th inst., under cover to Senator Gwin, 
was duly received, and- would have received my immediate attention but 
for the fact that I was hourly expecting to hear from your city. My long 
delay, however, has only proven the necessity of a still longer stay, and I 
now write this line to inform you that I shall leave here either on Thurs- 
day or Friday next. 



214 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

I shall avail myself of the pleasure of an immediate call upon you upon 
my arrival. I had but an hour or two while in New York last, and found 
it impossible to pay my respects to the Napoleon of America. 

I have mauy things to say, and a few orders to be filled. I leave for 
California on the 20 th of March, or the 5 th of April ; meantime, I trust I 
shall have the pleasure of presenting to you many of my friends who are 
bound to occupy prominent positions in the new administration, and of 
course we shall both feel great pride in seeing them dressed like gentle- 
men, to say the least. 

Very respectfully, 

Your devoted friend, 

G. W. WRIGHT. 
Geo. P. Fox,, 

Broadway, New York. 



Extract of Presentation of the Speeches of T. F. MEAGHER 
Esq., the Distinguished Irish Orator to Geo. P. Fox. 
Presented to G. P. Fox, Esq., by T. F. Meagher, in most friendly acknowl- 
edgment of the very handsome and costly gift he gave rne the 10th of 
January, 1853, the anniversary of my escape from Van Dieman's Land ; 
in acknowledgment, moreover, of his unvarying attention to me ever 
since my arrival in America, and with the heartiest wishes for his contin- 
ued success in that profession which his honesty, patriotism, and great 
ability has adorned. 



Letter from an Unknown Correspondent. 

Dayton, Ohio, Oct. 11, 1852. 
Mr. George P. Fox : — 

Dear Sir — Inclosed you will find $50, for which I want you to make me, 

as soon as possible, an Oriental K'haban of black or blue. Make it to 

suit your own taste, except the sleeves, which I want in overcoat style. 

Direct to me, Burnet House, Cincinnati, care of John L. Cassiday. 

Yours, &c, 

A. MASON. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 215 

Letter from the Most Rev. THEOBALD MATHEW, the Great 
Apostle op Temperance. 

My Dear Mr. Fox :— 

Accept my sincere thanks for your exceeding generosity, in presenting 

me, unsolicited, with a superb suit of black cloth clothes. The delicate 

manner in which you conferred this favor much enhances the value of the 

gift. 

Believe me, 

Tour grateful friend, 

THEOBALD MATHEW. 

New York, Oct., 25, 1851. 



Correspondence with JENNY LIND. 

G. P. Fox will please take Miss Lind's instructions for making a gen- 
tleman's morning-wrapper, and oblige 

JNO. F. KING. 
(Countersigned) Jenny Lind. 



Letter prom Sib H. L. BULWER, formerly Ambassador from Eng- 
land to the United States, now her Britannic Majesty's Am- 
bassador to Constantinople. 

Sir:— 

I will call on you to-day, and there are a few small alterations in the 
trowsers which I will suggest. 

Yours very truly, 

H. L. BULWER. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., &c, &c, &c. 



216 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

(A.) 
Letters froji B. LYTTON, the Son op Sir Edward Bulwer Lyt- 
ton, Bart., formerly Attache to the British Legation at Wash- 
ington, AND NOW CELEBRATED FOR HIS POETICAL REPUTATION AS 

" Owen Meredith." 

I beg to testify to Mr. Fox's ability as an artist of great genius botli 

in tlie conception and execution of every work and branch of a profession 

of which he is rightly entitled " the President." 

BULWER LYTTON. 
British Legation, Washington, 

February, 1852. 

(B.) 

British Legation, Dec. 5, '51. 
Dear Sir : — 

As the 1st of January is approaching, and I shall be in want of my uni- 
form on that day, I have availed myself of Mr. Moore, one of H. M. Mes- 
sengers, being in New York, to request him to bring it with him on his 
return to Washington. I would, therefore, be obliged to you if you would 
give it to him or Lis order. 

The waistcoat you sent me I received quite safely — it is not the exact 
color which I thought I had mentioned, but is very well made, and jits 
well. 
* * -x- * -x- -x- -x- * 

I should be glad to know if you think you are likely to be in Washing- 
ton during the winter, as if I remain in this country the whole of that 
season, I shall be in want of some winter clothes, and would wait till 
I could see you before getting them, if you are likely to be here then. 

I should also be glad if you would inform me, if you are not 

coming up here, I could send you the amount of your bill to New York. 

Your obed't servant, 

B. LYTTON. 
To Geoege P. Fox, Esq., 

New York City. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 217 

Letter from Col. SCOTT CUNNINGHAM, Paymaster U. S. N. 

Washington, Oct. 8, 1862. 

My Dear Fox : — 

On Wednesday last, I visited the tomb of Washington, at Mount Ver- 
non, and brought away a stick suitable for a walking cane, which I shall 
take pleasure in offering for your acceptance. The wood is yet in too 
green a state to admit of being mounted with head and ferrule. It should 
be allowed some months seasoning, and I shall therefore send it to you 
" in the rough," with all its hallowed associations. You are a jmtriot and 
will duly appreciate it. 

I was delayed in getting to New York on the 1st. I shall probably 
leave here nest Wednesday or so. 

Thine truly, 

JOHN SCOTT CUNNINGHAM. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., 

333 Broadway, N. Y. 

The cane above referred to has been beautifully mounted, and encased 
in the head, under a glass cover, is a piece of the identical uniform blue 
coat, and a piece of the buff cassimere of General Washington's vest and 
small clothes, in which he surrendered his commission at Annapolis, in 
1783. 



Letter prom the Gallant Capt. BLAKE, U. S. Navy. 

Mr. Fox has made for me a uniform which has given me the most en- 
tire satisfaction. I can safely recommend him to the officers of the Navy. 

GEORGE S. BLAKE, U. S. N. 

New York, 2d Jan., 1857. 

To Captain Hudson, Steamer Niagara. 



218 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Letter from an Appreciative Valued Friend and Customer. 

Jefferson, Chemung Co., Jan. 23cZ, 1852. 
George P. Fox, Esq. : 

Dear Sir, — I received the coat you sent me by express tins morning. 
Also your letter and bill. I have just paid the bill ($40) to Mr. Rich- 
mond, express agent here, and you will doubtless receive the amount 
simultaneously with the letter. 

I have now received all the articles of clothing I ordered, and it is with 
pleasure that I express myself not only satisfied, but highly gratified at 
the manner in which you have fulfilled my expectations. True, Mrs. 
Watkins may have aided in the selection of the goods, but I think, it is 
only George P. Fox who could have turned out articles made from these 
goods in such perfect taste and finished style. The coat is a neat, easy, 
and perfect fit ; so with the other articles. Had I been personally pres. 
ent, and measured and re-measured, you could not have succeeded better. 

It follows that you are sure of my patronage and good offices, so far as 
others are concerned. Though the patronage of one individual is small, 
yet it is small parts of which great and mighty wholes are composed. I 
shall probably be in the city in about a month, when I shall do myself 
the pleasure to make you a short call. Meantime I am truly yours, &c. 

GEO. G. FREER. 



From a facetious Western Friend and Customer. 
We publish the following humorous correspondence (per U. S. mail) 
of an original description, between a well-known fashionable Broadway 
tailor and one of his admiring customers, now temporarily sojourning in 
one of the Western States, for the reader's amusement. The letters be- 
speak, in part, the spirit of the times. Some people, at all hazards, wish 
to dress, and will dress, becomingly. They get tired of " old clothes," 
notwithstanding the war, and the more dismal hue and cry of " hard 
times." 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 219 

Madison, Wisconsin, Jan. 22d, 1862. 
My Bear Sir,— I regret that I liave kept you waiting- for the enclosed 
draft. I have been in daily expectancy of seeing you soon in New York, 
and scarcely thought it worth while to send so small a sum, when it 
would do just as well to give it to you personally. 

I would give you an order for some new editions of your " beautifying 
in cloth," but really anything does to wear out here in the West, and I'll 
reserve my new skin till the animal gets where civilization can gaze 
upon him and appreciate the genius of " Fox." Here the talent of ten 
thousand Foxes is lightly held in esteem. A fur cap, a rough coat, and 
a pair of moccasins, being as nearly as possible full dress. 

May your store be thronged, your be purse full, and your prosperity be 
plenteous, throughout 1862, and on through the century. 
Faithfully yours, 

E. P. H * * * * * * 
To Geo. P. Fox, Esq , Architect in cloth, 

824 Broadway, New York City. 



824 Bkoadway, New York, Jan. 29, 1862. 

My Dear Sir, — Your kind favor of the 22d inst. is to hand this day 
covering draft for the amount of your account to date, as per enclosed 
receipt, and for which please accept my most sincere thanks. 

I cordially approve of your desire to give me an order for some new 
editions of beautifying clothes, on your return to civilized New York. A 
philosopher may attempt to write, but never could fully describe how de 
jected and miserable a refined disposition like yours must at present feel, 
whilst vegetating as you are, and moulting your feathers, and rusting 
out your existence, in that out of the way place, Wisconsin. 

Only imagine E. P. H * * * * * * *, " a gentleman and scholar, the 
painter and sculptor by times," clad in a fur cap, a rough coat, and a 
pair of moccasins, and this is the only possible full dress in that unfash- 



220 CORRESPONDENCE OP THE 

ionable region of our land, the "far West." They say "fine feathers 
don't make fine birds," but rest assured, when Geo. P. Fox gets hold of the 
now animal E. P. II * * * * * * * 's rough outer skin, he will tear it to 
pieces with the voracity of a four-legged sly fox, and re-adorn the Apollo- 
like figure of E. P. H * * * * * * *, Esq., with " fine feathers," viz., a 
combination of fine broadcloth, with silk, satin, velvet, and net cassimere. 
There now, friend, is not this a " Roland for your Oliver ?" Do not your 
facetious compliments pale before the effectual fire of my rejoinder? 

I am yours respectfully, ever grateful and obliged, 

G. P. F. 
To E. P. H * * * * * * * Esq. Briggs' Hotel, 
Chicago, 111. 



Letter feom a Member of the French Legation at Washing- 
ton, D. C. 

Washington, le 17 Fev., '52. 
Mr. Geo. P. Fox: 

Monsieur, — J'ai recu le pantalon que vous m'avez envoye en justifiant 
parfaitement votre devise Faire sans dire. Malheureusement, il ne m'allait 
pas, ou qni n'a rien d'etonnant puisque vous ne m'avez jamais vu. Mon 
colligue de Richmond, M. Henri Tabouelle, le trouvant a son gout et a 
la taille l'a pris et m'a charge de vous prier de lui envoyer le bill, au 
Louis de la Legation de France. 

Je m'adresserai a vous avec plaisir a l'occasion. Agriez, Monsieur, l'as- 
surance de ma parfait consideration. 

L. DEJARDIN. 



LIVING AND DEPAETED. 221 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
State of New York. 
City and County of Neio York, ss. : 

Be it remembered, That on the sixteenth day of October, in the year 
of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, George Patrick 
Fox (late of Great Britain) appeared in the Court of Common Pleas, for 
the City and County of New York, the said Court being a Court of Rec- 
ord, having common law jurisdiction, and a clerk and seal, and applied to 
the said Court, to be admitted to become a Citizen of the United 
States of America, pursuant to the directions of the Act of Congress of 
the United States of America, entitled " an Act to establish an uniform 
rule of naturalization, and to repeal the Acts heretofore passed on that 
subject," passed April 14th, 1802; and the Act entitled "an Act for the 
regulation of seamen on board the public and private vessels of the Uni- 
ted States," passed March 3d, 1813 ; and the " Act relative to evidences 
in case of naturalization," passed 22d March, 1816; and the Act entitled 
"an Act in further addition to an Act to establish an uniform rule of nat- 
uralization, and to repeal the Acts heretofore passed on that subject," 
passed May 26th, 1824 ; and an Act entitled " an Act to amend the Acts 
concerning naturalization," passed May 24th, 1828 ; and the said appli- 
cant, having thereupon produced to the Court such evidence, made such 
declaration and renunciation, and taking such oaths, as are by the said 
Acts required, Thereupon, it was ordered by the said Court, that the 
said applicant be admitted, and he was accordingly admitted to be a Cit- 
izen of the United States of America. 

In testimony wliereof, the Seal of the said Court is hereto affixed, this six- 
teenth day of October, 1856, and the eightieth year of the Independence 
of the United States. 

[Seal.] By the Court. 

BENJ. H. JARVIS, Clerk. 



222 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Letters from Sir JOHN F. CRAMPTON, formerly British Am 

BASSADOR TO THE UNITED STATES, NOW H. B. MAJESTY'S AMBASSA- 
DOR TO ST. PETERSBURGn, RUSSIA. 

Washington, May 5, 1852. 
Sir :— 

I inclose you a check for the amount of a bill against Mr. Lytton. 
* * * * * * * * * * * * # 

If you will be good enough to send me the receipt I will forward it to 

him. 



Geo. P. Fox, Esq., 
New York. 



Your obed't serv't, 

JOHN F. CRAMPTON. 



Washington, June 16, 1852. 
Sir:— 

I inclose herewith a check for your bill. Please send me a receipt for 

the same. 

Your most obed't serv't, 

JOHN F. CRAMPTON. 
G. P. Fox, Esq., 

New York. 



Letter op ISAAC V. FOWLER, Esq., Postmaster of New York. 

Post Office, New York, 

March 16, 1859. 
Dear Sir : — 

Permit me to introduce to you Mr. George P. Fox, of New Jersey, who 
wishes to see you on a matter of business connected with the department. 

He is a gentleman of character and position, and you can implicitly 
rely upon the correctness of any statements made by him. 

Very respectfully yours, 

„ ISAAC V. FOWLER. 

Horatio King, Esq., 

Assistant Postmaster- General, 

Washington, D. C. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 223 

Correspondence with the WAR DEPARTMENT. 

Adjutant-General's Office, 
Washington, Feb. 17, 1860. 
Sir:— 

Your letter of the 9th inst., to the Secretary of War, has been referred 
to this Office, and in partial compliance with your request, a copy of the 
Army Register for 1860 has been transmitted to your address. 

A revised edition of the regulations respecting the dress of the army 
is now in preparation for the press. A copy will be furnished you at the 
earliest moment practicable. 

Very respectfully, 

Your obed't serv't, 

S. COOPER. 

Adjutant- Gen eral. 
To Geo. P. Fox, Esq., 

No. 824 Broadway, N. Y. 



Letters from Members of the French Legation at 
Washington, D. C. 

New York, le 30 Janr., 1862. 

MON CHER AMI : 

Mr. George P. Fox, tailleur fashionable de New York, m'a fait un 
uniforme, une habit de soiree et une Redingotte habillee a ma tres grande 
satisfaction. II a un coupeur francais, dont je fais grand cas. 

Mr. Fox se rendant a Washington pour solliciter des ordres me prie de 
le recommander a quelqu'un de la Legation. Etant content de lui, je lui 
donne cette lettre pour vous, dans le cas ou. vous ayez besoin de ses services, 
Neuilly le recommander a les messieurs de la Legation. 

Je vous rendour elle, cher ami, l'assurance de ma bien bonne amitie. 

M't tout affec. 

JS. BORER. 



224 CORRESPONDENCE OP THE 

J'ai ete a, memo d'apprecier l'elegance des vetements faits par Mr. Geo. 

P. Fox et le recommande a. M. M. Aluecar, Jom de Bertodanos 

Ariaga. 

Washington, 1 Mai, 18G2. 

L. DEJARDIN. 

431 14tli Street. 



Washington, May 22, 1866. 

Dear Sir, — You Lave not sent your bill. I hope it is not growing. 
Please send it. 

Can you make me three nice suits of very light and comfortable 
summer clothing, say one black, one white, and one soine mixed, but 
light color ? 

If some other color than pure black or white will be a better taste, 
please advise me, also if the coat, half way between sack and frock, should 
be of different color for part suit ; I shall rely on your taste to have 
everything j ust right. 

Make one suit immediately that I may try fit and style before the 

others are made. 

Please answer immediately, 

Yours truly, 

S. P. CHASE. 
G. P. Fox, 

Merchant Tailor. 



Washington, May 7, 1866. 

My Dear Sir, — I return you samples here and pinned together which 
seem to nie best, but I have so poor an opinion of my judgment in such 
matters that I shall be glad to have you exercise your own without regard 
much to mine. 

Instead of one of the three, say the darkest, would it not be better to 
have a pura black suit ? What goods do you use for black ? 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 225 

What I insist on chiefly is lightness and comfort in warm weather. 
The question of having coat, pants, and vest of the same, or different 
colors, I leave to you. 

First, Please make the white suit, or white except coat as you think best, 
and if possible let me have it this week. If you come to Washington 
perhaps you will bring it, and then we can decide as to the vest. 

It is probable that I sball leave town nest week early, perhaps Monday. 

Yours truly, 

S. P. CHASE. 

Mr. G. P. Fox. 



Providence, R. I. Sept. 1, 1866. 

Bear Sir, — Your bill of $557, also $212, reached me here yesterday. 
Inclosed is check for balance for $345. Please send bill receipted to 
Washington, where I expect to be after a few days. 

Yours respectfully, 

S. P. CHASE. 
Mr. G. P. Fox. 

Merchant Tailor. 



Washington, Bee. 4, 1866. 

Bear Sir, — The clothes meet general approbation. The shirts, though 
not expected, did not yet arrive. 

Yours respectfully, 

S. P. CHASE. 
Mr. G. P. Fox. 
15 



226 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Navy Department, 
Washington, March 31, 1870. 

Sir, — Agreeably to your request, which was referred to this Department 
by the Hon. James Brooks, I transmit herewith a copy of the Naval 
Uniform Regulations. A Register will be sent to you as soon as 
published. 

For the other books named in your request, your letter has been 
referred to the War Department, who will doubtless forward publications 
which you desired. 

Very respectfully, 

HOLMES E. OFFEY, 
Chief Clerk. 
George P. Fox, Esq. 

No. 47 Amity Street, New York. 



Adjutant General's Office, 
Washington, April 6, 1870. 

Hon. James Brooks, M. C, 

•V . 
Washington, D. C. 

Sir, — I have to return herewith communication from Geo. P. Fox, Esq. 
No. 47 Amity Street, New York City, together with a copy of the latest 
edition of the Regular Army Register, and to inform you that there are 
no copies of the Revised Army Regulations on hand for distribution, the 
last edition having been exhausted. 

I am very respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

E. D. TOWNSEND, 
Adjutant General. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 227 

Department op State, 
Washington, April, 19, 1870. 

Sir, — The Secretary of State desires me to acknowledge the receipt of 
your two letters, bearing date the 22d ultimo, and 16th inst. respectively, 
and to say in reply that it is not the province of this Department to 
determine questions of law, such as that propounded in your letter. The 
information you seek can probably be obtained by application to a 
competent lawyer. 

The accompaniment of your letter of the 22d ultimo is herewith 
returned. 

I am, Sir, 

Your obedient servant 

R. BL CHE# 1/ 
CMef Clerk. 

George P. Fox, Esq.. 

47 Amity Street, New York. 



V' Attorney-General's Office. 

, Washington, April 25, 1870. 

Sir, — I have received your letter of the 22d inst. 

The law does not permit me to give you an official opinion upon the 
question you ask. 

Very respectfully, 

E. R. HOAR, 
Attorney- General. 
George P, Fox, Esq., 

No. 47 Amity Street, New York. 



228 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

Executive Mansion, 
Washington, D. C, May, 1G, 1870. 

Sir, — Your letter was referred to the Secretary of State with, whom you 

should communicate in regard to your emblem flag as a trade mark. 

I am Sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

HORACE PORTER. 

Secretary. 
George P. Fox, Esq., 

47 Amity Street, New York. 

Department of State, 

Washington, Sept. 9, 1871. 
Geo. P. Fox, Esq., 

47 Amity Street, New York. 
Sir, — In reply to your letter of the 5th instant, I have to state that, by 
a resolution of Congress of the 27th of March, 1867, all persons in the 
diplomatic service of the United States are prohibited from wearing any 
uniform or official costume. 

I am, Sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

W. HUNTER. 
Acting SecPetary. 

Correspondence from the HON. SUN SET COX, 

Member of Congress from the City of New York. 

My Dear Sir, — I am just at home from California. 

I have yours of 28th June and have (unless too late) written for the 

information you desire. 

With regards, 

s. s. COX. 
To Mr. Geo. P. Fox. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 229 

If it is proper for the Dept. to give the information, you will get it 

direct. If you do not get it, it is because the Dept. wont give it for 

State reasons. 

New York, 13 E. 12th Street, 

Sept. 17, 1871. 



Department op State, 
Washington, 22d Sept., 1871. 
My Dear Mr. Cox: — 

We should be very glad to provide your friend Mr. Fox with a descrip- 
tion of the uniform of the diplomatic and consular servants of the Repub- 
lic ; and so far as we are able it is given in the inclosed ; but the laws 
you helped to make, as you perceive, allow only those diplomatic and 
consular officers who have served in the armies of the United States to 
wear any uniform. Those who have so served may, if they desire, wear 
any uniform proper for their military rank or brevet rank. 

DIPLOMATIC SERVICE. 
Instructions, Acts of Congress, &c, to July 28th, 1866. 

§ XXII. Ministers and officers of the several grades in the diplomatic 
service of the United States are hereby instructed to conform to the re- 
quirements of the joint resolution of Congress approved on the 27th of 
March, 1867, prohibiting them from wearing any uniform or official cos- 
tume not previously authorized by Congress. 

The 34th section of an act approved the 28th of July, 1866, authorizes 
all officers who have served during the rebellion as volunteers in the 
armies of the United States to bear the official title, and, upon occasions 
of ceremony, to wear the uniform of the highest grade they have held by 
brevet or other commissions in the volunteer service. This section consti- 



230 COEEESPONDENCE OF THE 

tutes tlie exceptiou made in the prohibitory resolution above referred to, 
and is in full force and effect in its application to persons in the diplomatic 
or any other branch of the civil service of the United States who may 
have served in our armies in the manner therein described. 

The test of the joint resolution an I section before named is as follows : 

["Public Resolution — No. 15.] 

"A Resolution concerning the uniform of persons in the diplomatic 

service of the United States. 

" Resolved by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United 
States of America in Congress assembled, That all persons in the diplomatic 
service of the United States are prohibited from wearing any uniform or 
official costume not previously authorized by Congress. 

" Approved March 27, 1867." 

" Sec. 34. And be it further enacted, That all officers who have served 
during the rebellion as volunteers in the armies of the United States, and 
who have been, or may hereafter be, honorably mustered out of the 
volunteer service, shall be entitled to bear the official title, and, upon oc- 
casions of ceremony, to wear the uniform of the highest grade they have 
held by brevet or other commissions in the volunteer service. In case of 
officers of the regular army, the volunteer rank shall be entered upon the 
official army register : Provided, That these privileges shall not entitle 
any officer to command, pay, or emoluments.' 7 

There was in former years a uniform designed to meet the usages of 
European courts. At that time, on the recommendation of the mission 
to Ghent, a description of which is as follows : 

MEMORANDUM OF THE DRESS OF AN AMERICAN MINISTER 
AS FIXED BY THE MISSION TO GHENT. 

A blue coat, lined with white silk ; straight standing cape, embroi- 
dered with gold, single breasted, straight or round button-holes, slightly 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 231 

embroidered. Buttons, plain, or, if they can be had, with the artillerists' 
eagle stamped upon them — i. e., an eagle flying, with a wreath in its 
mouth, grasping lightning in one of its talons. Cuffs embroidered in the 
manner of the cape ; white cassimere breeches ; gold knee-buckles ; white 
silk stockings ; and gold or gilt shoe buckles. A three-cornered chapeau- 
bras, not so large as those used by the French, nor so small as those of 
the English. A black cockade, to which lately an eagle has been at- 
tached. Sword, &c, corresponding. 

The Secretaries have the same costume, with the exception that their 
coats have less embroidery than that of the Minister. 

It is usual, at all European courts, on what are called gala days, such as 
birthdays of the Sovereign, marriages of Princes of his family, and other 
extraordinary occasions, for the foreign Ministers, as well as other per- 
sons of distinction, connected with the court, to appear in uniforms more 
splendid with embroidery, than upon occasions of ordinary levees, draw- 
ing-rooms, and diplomatic circles. A decent respect for the usages of the 
courts, and a suitable compliance with forms there established, make it 
proper that the Minister of the United States should adopt this custom, 
and wear, on those occasions, a coat, similar to that above described, but 
embroidered round the skirts, and down the breasts, as well as at the cuffs 
and cape — all the other parts of the dress remaining the same. The coats 
to be distinguished as the great and the small uniform. There should be 
a white ostrich feather, or plumet, in the Minister's hat, not standing 
erect, but sewed round the brim. 

All the persons attached to the legation, wear the same uniform as the 
Secretary, and need to have only one. 

Department of State, Nov. 6th, 1817. 

Governor Marcy, however, in 1853, (June 1st), issued a circular, doing 
away with such uniforms in a great degree. 



232 COERESPONDENCE OF THE 

(circular.) 

Department of State, 
Washington, June 1, 1853. 

In addition to the " Personal Instructions to the Diplomatic Agents of 
the United States in Foreign Countries," the following are hereafter to 
be observed : 

In performing the ceremonies observed upon the occasion of his recep- 
tion, the Representative of the United States will conform, as far as is 
consistent with a joist sense of his devotion to republican institutions, to 
the customs of the country wherein he is to reside, and with the rules 
prescribed for Representatives of his rank ; but the Department would 
encourage, as far as practicable, without impairing his usefulness to his 
■country, his appearance at court in the simple dress of an American citi- 
zen. Should there be cases where this cannot be done, owing to the 
character of the Foreign Government, without detriment to the public 
interest, the nearest approach to it compatible with the due per- 
formance of his duties is earnestly recommended. The simplicity of 
our usages and the tone of feeling among our people is much more in ac- 
cordance with the example of our first and most distinguished Represen- 
tative at a royal court than the practice which has since prevailed. 
It is to be regretted that there was ever any departure in this respect 
from the example of Dr. Franklin. History has recorded and commended 
this example, so congenial to the spirit of our political institutions. The 
Department is desirous of removing all obstacles to a return to the sim 
pie and unostentatious course which was deemed so proper and was so 
much approved in the earliest days of the Republic. It is our purpose to 
cultivate the most amicable relations with all countries, and this we 
believe can be effectually clone without requiring our diplomatic agents 
abroad to depart in this respect from what is suited to the general senti. 
ments of our fellow-citizens at home. All instructions in regard to what is 
called diplomatic uniform or court-dress being withdrawn, each of our 



LIVING AND DEPAKTED. 233 

Representatives in other countries will be left to regulate this matter ac- 
cording to his own sense of propriety, and with a due respect to the 
views of his Government as herein expressed. 

It is desirable that the Minister or Charge d' Affairs should establish 
the Legation in as central a position as may be convenient of the Metrop- 
olis near the Government to which he is sent. It will be his duty to see 
that it is kept open every day, except Sundays and fete days, from 
9 o'clock in the forenoon until 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The Secretary 
attached to it, if there be one, must perform, in person, all the services 
which properly devolve upon him, except in cases of sickness or leave of 
absence. In such cases, it is enjoined upon the Minister to appoint an 
American citizen to represent him, if it can be done. There is an obvious 
impropriety in devolving upon a foreigner the duties which belong to the 
Secretary. It is necessary to be thus specific in these instructions ; for it 
has frequently occurred, of latter years, that Secretaries of Legation have, 
as tins Department is informed, employed clerks whose allegiance was 
foreign to copy dispatches and do other official duties which pertained to 
themselves. This practice, which it is feared is upon the increase, is so 
obviously wrong, that the President is resolved to cause it to be discon- 
tinued. The correspondence between the Government and the Legations 
of the United States must be guarded with the utmost secrecy even as 
relates to our own citizens. To submit it to the examination of a for- 
eigner will be regarded as an indiscretion in the offender demanding im- 
mediate deprivation of office. The first duty of a subject is considered to 
be fidelity to his Sovereign. Foreign clerks may justly be regarded as 
unsafe depositaries of the secrets of our diplomacy in the Legation where 
they are employed. The possibility that a revelation of our secret State 
papers may occur in this manner is sufficient to excite fears on the sub- 
ject and require the strict observance of the above instructions. 

Ministers of the United States and Charges d' Affairs are requested to 
authenticate, by their own signatures, with the seal of the Legation, the 



234 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

passports of American citizens, and not permit Secretaries to perform this 
duty when they themselves are at their posts.- 

W. L. MARCY. 
Then, in 1867, Congress brought its wisdom to bear on the question, 
and prohibited all but military uniforms, as above stated, as you will see 
by reference to inclosure. 

I leave it with you to settle the question with your friend Fox, who, I 
am afraid, will be disappointed as to the extent of the field for supplying 
diplomatic costume. 

Always truly yours, 

R. S. CHEW. 
The Honorable S. S. Cox, 
New York City. 



CRITICISMS OF AMERICAN AND ENGLISH JOURNALS. 

notices op the press on the present and former editions of this 
work, &c, &c — fashion and politics in washington — from an 
occasional correspondent, "new york express." 

Washington, Jan. — , 1861. 

Another week of excitement has passed, and the country is still com- 
paratively safe. How long this sense of security will remain, depends 
upon an immediate decisive convention and a delegation to Washington 
of the sovereign people of all the States — East, West, North and South, 
and somewhat upon our representatives (query mis representatives) in 
Congress, the politicians out of it, and the developments of time and 
future events. Notwithstanding the distractions which have come upon 
us, the people in this metropolis seem prone to enjoy the usual festivities 
of this season of the year, just as if the secession movement had never 
been talked of, and as if there was no embarrassment at all to our national 
prosperity. The President's series of levees was inaugurated on the loth, 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 235 

in a style of brilliancy equal to any which have preceded it, and a large 
company entered into the gaieties of the occasion with a zest equal to the 
best days of that democratic institution, a social reunion at the Presiden- 
tial mansion. The President seemed in excellent spirits, a fact which 
appeared to give satisfactory evidence to his visitors that he, at least, does 
not yet despair of bringing the ship of State safely into the haven of 
peace, and all in good season. The Cabinet was represented by Secretary 
Black and lady, Attorney-General Stanton, and Secretary Holt, and Hon. 
Horatio King. The Diplomatic corps were out in full force, the represen- 
tatives from the Courts of St. James, Russia, Austria, Prussia, Belgium, 
Sweden, Brazil, Spain, and other ministers being present. 

Among the distinguished civilians present, Mr. Geo. P. Fox, the 
celebrated tailor of New York, and leader of Fashion, attracted attention 
by his gentlemanly bearing and the unequalled magnificence of his attire. 
Mr. Fox proved himself upon this occasion, as he has always done on 
every other, pre-eminently the Leader of Fashion ; and a description of 
his tout ensemble may prove interesting even in these days of war's alarms 
and disagreeable sensations. In this connection I may mention that Mr. 
Fox had already created a sensation in fashionable circles before his 
appearance at the levee, by the princely order of his street costume, 
appearing alternately in some instances in half a dozen different fashion- 
able suits of clothes in the course of a day. There has appeared to be no 
end to the variety, extent and richness of his wardrobe, and it became 
really a matter of speculation whether he could produce anything new 
for the gathering at the Presidential levee. Some one, a wag undoubt- 
edly, intimated that Mr. Fox would be obliged to appear in a shroud at 
the levee, for it seemed as if he had exhausted all the novelty in the way 
of mundane habiliments, and would be obliged to have recourse to the 
outre garb alluded to, to produce a further sensation. Strange to relate, 
the Leader of Fashion did attend the levee in the material of a shroud, 
being clothed in a blue cloth dress-coat, manufactured from the identical 



236 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

piece from which Mr. Fox formed the citizen dress, while living, and the 
grave-clothes, after death, of the patriotic Webster ; this garment was d 
la mode, with blue velvet skirt linings, and ornamented with gold buttons. 
The rest of the costume was in keeping, and was as follows : brimstone 
buff satin dress-vest ; black dress cassimere pantaloons ; frill shirt, with 
ruffle sleeves ; white neck-tie, with Valencia ends ; white kid gloves, black 
silk stockings, dress pumps. In addition to this beautiful attire, Mr. Fox 
wore to the White House a military scarlet K'haban envelope, lined with 
scarlet silk and velvet, richly trimmed with gold and ermine fur collar 
and cuffs ; United States officer's chapeau, with a plume of red. white, blue 
and buff feathers ; United States regulation sword and belt. Such was 
the Leader of Fashion's attractive and extremely tasteful outfit for the gay 
assemblage at the White House, and is it at all singular that the Wearer 
should have been the observed of all observers, even in that throng where 
the great effort has always been to see who shall appear to the best 
advantage? While on this subject of dress, I may mention that Mr. Fox 
has appeared here, dressed in the distinctive costumes of the Diplomatic 
corps, and in that of the Army and Navy officers, as well as in the 
ordinary garb of the gentleman of taste of the present day. 

This advent of Mr. Fox, who was driven to the White House in a 
magnificent carriage drawn by splendid gray horses, to and from Willard's 
Hotel, created at once a sensation. Politics gave way to fashion, and the 
leaders of party seemed instinctively to bow in admiration of the genius 
of the man who could thus create a sentiment which surmounted even 
the asperities of political antagonism. Mr. Fox was presented to the 
President by Deputy Marshal Phillips, and after an exchange of those 
courtesies usual on the occasion, was introduced to Miss Lane by Com- 
missioner Blake. To Miss L. Mr. Fox presented a beautiful bouquet, 
somewhat to her embarrassment, it appeared, for she already held in her 
hand another bunch of culled sweets. But with that delicacy and tact 
which is her leading characteristic, she blushed, and passed to a lady 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 237 

friend the bouquet which she had, and retained the pleasing gift of 
fashion's leader.* 

To the bouquet was attached a card containing the following impromptu 
effusion : 

"For flowers like these three maids divine contended ; 
For flowers like these Eve's glorious hours were ended. 
Had you been there, the contest ne'er had pended ; 
Had you been there, the angel had relented." 

On the obverse appeared the following patriotic sentiment : 

"MOKE MEANT THAN MEETS THE EAR. 

" Let fashion and fashioners frown down, and immediately try to avert 
all and every malign influence that at the present time endangers the 
peace, progress and prosperity of the United States." 

Beneath this sentiment was drawn a symbol of our Union, a perfect 
circle, with the four important chronological events in our nation's 
history, viz : 1492, the discovery of the country ; 1782, the birth of 
Washington ; 177G, the Declaration of Independence, and the present 
year, 1861 ; inside the Union circle appeared the cardinal points of the 
compass. The gift was very appropriate, and afforded the fair recipient 
much pleasure. The Diplomatic corps, the gentlemen acquaintances and 
lady friends of Miss Lane, found much food for conversation and enjoy- 
ment in this incident of the levee. The former were struck with the 
masterly stroke of diplomacy, which secured so much attention, and were 
little inclined to be envious, but they bore their defeat becomingly, and 
universally admitted that the act was perfectly in keeping, and worthy of 
the man. The ladies appeared to covet the gift, and seemed divided in 
their admiration of the compliment to Miss L., and the delicacy of the 
conception which dictated it. 

*It was the patriotic bouquet of the season. In the centre were apple-blossoms, 
an emblem of the garden of Eden ; while around the centre appeared the olive, the 
carmel, the almond, the heliotrope, all significant of the glory of the country, and a 
trust in the ultimate obliteration of all our national troubles, through a peaceful 
victory. 



238 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

In the course of his sojourn in this city, Mr. Fox has been in familiar 
conversation with a large number of our most eminent statesmen and 
citizens, who were quite as anxious to gather views upon the existing 
complications in our government, as upon the various topics connected 
with the world of fashion. Coming so freshly from the people, Mr. F. 
lias been enabled to impart such correct information in regard to the 
public sentiment in New York, as has been, no doubt, acceptable and 
valuable to many of our national legislators, officials and others. Among 
these I may mention the President and Vice-President, Senators Critten- 
den, Douglas, Gwin, Sumner, King and Latham ; the Secretary of the 
Navy, Hon. Horatio King, Hon. John A. Dix, General Cass, Hon. J. B. 
Adrain, Hon. John L. N. Stratton, Hon. John Cochrane, Hon. Dwight 
Loomis, Hon. John Woodruff, Hon. Reverdy Johnson, Col. Kane, Commis- 
sioner from South Carolina; General Harney, U. S. A.; Col. Cooper. Adj. 
Gen. U. S. A. ; Col. Keys, Military Secretary to Lt. Gen. Scott ; Hon. John 
A. Gurley, Hon. John Sherman, Professor S. F. Baird, and many others. I 
allude to these merely to show how actively the time of Mr. Fox has been 
employed, and that he has had opportunity to turn attention to the affairs 
of our suffering country, as well as to the duties of his peculiar and 
honorable profession. 

On Saturday morning Mr. Fox paid another visit to the White House, 
and had a more unconstrained interview with the President and Miss 
Lane. The former expressed his gratification at the call, while the latter 
uttered her unrestrained pleasure at the compliment at the levee. Mr. F. 
made a tour of the White House, the conservatory, &c, in company with 
other distinguished citizens, and departed after a most pleasant inter- 
change of sentiment. On this occasion Mr. F. was dressed in the usual 
costume of a gentleman making a morning call — morning promenade 
coat, fancy cassimere vest, and pantaloons seemingly coarse, yet of the 
finest material. A little episode occurred at this visit, which is worth 
relating. As Mr. Fox entered the White House, Mr. A. T. Stewart, of 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 239 

New York, "the Emperor of the rag trade," as lie is sometimes called, 
was leaving. Mutual recognition and exchange of courtesies took place 
between the leader and one of his chief aids, and the former passed in as 
the other passed out. On Sunday, Mr. Fox dined at Willard's, and feasted 
like an old Roman, but with commendable moderation. 

I have devoted this much of my letter to the famous leader of fashion, 
because he is, just now, the sensation here, and has completely divided 
attention with the national crisis. Mr. Fox is no ordinary individual. He 
is a man of fine literary ability, and has given to the world an essay on 
Modern Dress and Fashion of transcendent merit. He may be termed an 
enthusiast in his profession, somewhat transcendental in the beauty and 
originality of his ideas, yet strong and vigorous in his conceptions and 
their execution. In view of Mr. Fox's accomplishments, one may readily 
believe that, if Cotton is King, Fashion is Supreme ; and thus closes my 
essay on Fashion and Politics in the Federal Metropolis. 

E. PLURIBUS UNUM. 



[From the London Saturday Eeview.] 
A TRANSCENDENTAL TAILOR. 

We have long been aware of the perfection to which the Americans 
have brought advertising. Englishmen may admire their own Moses so 
long as they remain in Europe, but they must cross the Atlantic if they 
would behold the highest triumphs of the art of puffing. " The Presi- 
dent of Fashion," Mr. George P. Fox, of New York, does this sort of thing 
in a style which ought to teach Moses & Sons humility. The " Philos- 
ophy of Modern Dress " is not indeed a poem, nor does it appear that Mr. 
Fox's extensive and admirably-organized establishment contains a poet. 
But perhaps elegant prose is more likely to command general attention. 
And, besides, Mr. Fox treats his subject in a more enlightened spirit than 
the firm of Moses. According to them, dress is everything; but Mr. Fox 
more wisely says that dress with education makes the gentleman. " The 



240 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

air of good Society cannot be given except by education, aided by the 
artistic band of a genuine tailor." Thoughtful men will be attracted to 
an "institution," as Mr. Fox calls it, which puts forward its claims thus 
moderately, Avhile they will see through the fallacy of the bolder state- 
ment that a dress suit from Moses & Sons at £5 5s. will at once turn the 
purchaser into a gentleman. With education, and " such an outfit as em- 
anates from the popular emporium" of Mr. Fox, you are promised " a de- 
lightful sense of social security," and you feel that such a promise may 
be relied on. You are, perhaps, a little astounded to hear of an " outfit 
emanating " from an emporium ; but if you are, that is a proof that your 
education has been neglected, and therefore, if your social success should 
be incomplete, you will know that the fault is in yourself, and not in the 
" artistic hand " which made your clothes. And, even if you cannot at 
once scale the highest pinnacle of fashion, there is still much to be gained 
by putting yourself under Mr. Fox's care. 

"ISTo civilized man is apt to commit a crime in a good suit of clothes." 
Here is a security against roguery offered in an unexpected quarter. It 
has often been asked — What is to be done to check the course of enor- 
mous commercial frauds ? How can a board of directors trust its secretary 
or manager, whom it is powerless to control ? The answer is — By requir- 
ing him to be fashionably dressed. We sometimes hear a demand for a 
Government inspection of joint-stock banks. Let us rather employ the 
Surveyor of the Board of Trade to inspect the garments of the cashiers. 
" Arrayed iu a fine and elegant costume, with the consummate polish of 
appearance, which it is equally the duty and the pride of the conscientious 
artist to impart, a man feels his responsibilities as a citizen, is inspired 
with the love of order, becomes refined and elevated in his tastes, is filled 
with respect for law, decorum, and propriety, and finds in his own charac- 
ter a guarantee against temptation." Surely this is as convincing as it is 
eloquent. Do we need Mr. Fox's further assurance that no customer of 
his lias ever been convicted of a crime ? He gently complains in another 



LIVING- AND DEPARTED. 241 

place that men sometimes speak inconsiderately of tailors. We are sure 
that men of sense will henceforth speak of them with profound respect, 
and will promote them to the honor and authority which is their due. 
For let us only consider what a first-rate tailor might have done for us in 
the Russian war. Instead of numerous officers ineffectually inspecting 
gun-boats, we should have had a single officer examining the make and 
fit of the contractors' clothes. If the Gun-boat Committee had read Mr. 
Fox's pamphlet, they would have closed their Eeport with a piece of 
practical advice — that all builders and workmen engaged on contract- 
built ships should be arrayed in fine and elegant costumes, so that they 
might find in their own characters, as influenced by the coats upon their 
backs, a sufficient safeguard against the temptation to defraud an igno- 
rant and careless Board of Admiralty. 

Such are some of the arguments in support of Mr. Fox's claims to the 
confidence of the fashionable world. Let us now see how those argu- 
ments are strengthened by authority. The letters which Mr. Fox has re- 
ceived from eminent men about the make and material of their clothes 
are printed as an appendix to his pamphlet. In the van of this army of 
exquisites marches the celebrated Daniel Webster, who, " as he was the 
most able of Constitutionalists, was also one of the best-dressed of gentle- 
men." He left special directions for his burial in clothes which Mr. Fox 
made for him. Thus — 

Even from the tomb the voice of nature cries — 

saying. " Buy your clothes of Mr. Fox." A New York paper told the 
world that " Those who bent over his coffin recognized that mighty form, 
robed in the same vest and the same blue dress-coat, with the velvet 
collar and gold-wove cloth buttons," &c. ; and we learn from an affidavit 
of Mr. Fox, duly sworn, and having a piece of blue cloth annexed, that 
the pantaloons of black cassimere emanated from the same emporium. 
There is also a note of Mr. Webster desiring to have his " K'haban " on a 
particular morning; and another, stating that it is "the most comfortable 

16 



242 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

and easy-fitting summer garment he had ever worn." Mr. Webster's 
secretary assures Mr. Fox that the great Statesman actually dictated these 
words ; and the same personage also vouches for the fact that " he was 
interred in his best blue coat," being the identical one which the news- 
paper above quoted calls "this same chaste, but nobly made, blue dress- 
coat." We are thankful to the secretary for this statement from an 
impartial witness, because, on a point of such importance, we could 
scarcely feel satisfied either with the unsupported affidavit of Mr. Fox, or 
with a newspaper paragraph the style of which suggests a suspicion that 
it may have emanated from the emporium in Broadway. On the whole of 
the evidence, we do not feel any doubt that Mr. Webster was really 
buried " in the said suit of clothes as above set forth." 

With a noble generosity, Mr. Fox sends presents of cloth to distin- 
guished citizens, and then offers to make it up into- garments gratis. We 
understand that Mr. Fox finds his reward in the proud consciousness that 
he has helped to make a new President and his Ministers look like 
gentlemen. Mr. Filmore would have been happy to avail himself of one 
of these kind offers, "but the truth is, I have found it more difficult to 
procure a perfectly fitting pair of pantaloons than any other garment," 
and, therefore, he cannot venture to send a pattern. We can fancy how 
Mr. Fox hereupon gently patronized the President, and taught him not 
to be ashamed of his own legs in his own drawing-room. Ambition too 
often ends in disappointment, but ex-President Filmore carried with him 
into his retirement that peace of mind and ease of movement which were 
derived from the consciousness of being well-dressed. Another President, 
General Pierce, was treated with even more attention. Mr. Fox meas- 
ured and fitted him by the eye, and his secretary wrote that "the garments 
were all admirably adapted to the figure," and that the President appre- 
ciated the generosity of the gift. We may say that we appreciate it also, 
although not exactly at the figure which Mr. Fox would like. We cannot 
help thinking of how Sam Slick sold clocks, when we read, under date of 



LIVING AND DEPARTED. 248 

the next year, that " the President's coachman and footman are in need of 
box-coats for summer." They are to have pocket-flaps "to give the coat a 
distinctive character as a box-coat," and Mr. Fox may also send pants of 
the same material. We learn from other letters, that the Hon. S. A 
Douglas paid his bill ; that Commodore Perry preferred English lace on 
his coat and pantaloons ; that the Sergeant-at-Arms of the Senate found 
that his clothes " fitted with all the ease of an old suit, while they exhib- 
ited all the polish of a new," and that a lady had said that the same 
clothes were "neatly beautiful ;" that it would have, been convenient to the 
Hon. Edward Everett, to receive at a particular time, the garments he had 
ordered of Mr. Fox ; that Sir H. L. Bulwer would have liked to suggest a 
few small alterations in his trousers ; that Sir John F. Crampton paid his 
bill, and also that of Mr. Bulwer Lytton, "the son of Sir Edward Bulwer 
Lytton, Bart.," and desired to have receipts ; and that Mdlle. Jenny Lind 
wanted a gentleman's morning-wrapper. It also appears that Mr. Fox 
presented " a superb suit of black cloth clothes to Father Mathew, and a 
very handsome and costly gift " to -T. F. Meagher, who presented him in 
return with a copy of his speeches ; but whether or not the paper on 
which they were printed was large enough to cut up into patterns we are 
left in doubt. 

A Washington paper states that at a levee, " Mr. Fox's style made 
quite an impression on our fashionables." In another sense of the word, 
Mr. Fox's style has made quite an impression on ourselves. There was 
an interchange of salutations on the occasion between the President of 
the States, Mr. Filmore, and the President of Fashion, Mr. Fox, who were 
the two lions of the day. We should think that Mr. Filmore, conscious of 
ill-fitting pants, must have been a very tame lion under the all-judging 
eye of Mr. Fox. But it rather appears that this levee was held after the 
President's wardrobe had been remodelled ; and Mr. Fox probably came 
there to gaze with quiet pleasure at his own good work, and to behold, in 
Mr. Filmore's blue coat, fancy vest, and black cassimere pantaloons, one 



244 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

more triumph, of that great career in which " he has adorned the Doric 
simplicity of American principles by the inimitable grace and elegance of 
an appropriate Democratic costume." We own with humiliation that Mr. 
Moses has never proposed to himself an aim so noble, nor stated it in 
language so majestic; nor has his mind grasped that principle on which 
Mr. Fox insists strongly — that " a ready-made garment is, according to 
the laws of good taste, an impossibility." We are inclined to think that 
" a free ticket to the best places of society " emanates only from the 
emporium in Broadway. 



LIVING- AND DEPARTED. 245 



NEW PUBLICATIONS. 

THE COSMOPOLITAN INVENTOR. — THE PHILOSOPHY OF MODERN DRESS 
AND FASHION, BY MR. GEO. P. FOX, OF THIS CITY. 

We have had an opportunity of perusing the advance sheets of his 
work, 3d Edition, Series A.I). 1850, 1860, 1871. We give it as our opinion 
that it is a work that will command an immense circulation both here 
and in Europe, on account of its great merit, more especially as the 
author, who owns and controls the publication, will permit the same to 
be offered to the public at prices within the reach of all. We understand 
that Mr. Fox intends to place the book on sale with the most prominent 
booksellers of this city and throughout the country. Reprints of the 
edition will appear also in London, Paris and other European cities. We 
perceive that the principal N. Y. journals are taking an tmusual interest 
in publishing extracts from the edition. The author handles the subject 
like an adept in polite and elegant literature. It is asserted that he gra 
uated from the humble rank of a printer's devil, as ink-boy, to the more 
progressive positions of letter-press and copperplate printer, engraver and 
paper maker, as a proprietor. In this he was aided, in the year 1843, by 
his own inventions on certain civilizing pieces of machinery, and in 
improvements of a marked character, such as the steam-engine valves. 
Also, on the atmospheric cylinder, known as the American paper machine, 
including improvements on Foudrinier's Longitudinal and Cross-cut 
paper-cutting machine, &c. Singular to relate, that the comparatively 
new 6th order of architecture, technically known as the " Cosmopolitan," 
originated with Mr. Fox, who showed to the world, for the first time, in 
the year 1841, newly-invented improvements, with brief specifications 
which were entered by him in pamphlet form at Stationer's Hall, London. 
These were afterwards known as the Union base principle, or Cosmopoli- 



246 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

tan order of Architecture, and more especially as applied to the construc- 
tion of the front elevation of mercantile edifices. This improved form of 
structure came into vogue in this city about the year 1852. This style of 
construction was first shown* at 43 Dean's Gate North, Manchester, Eng- 
land, and then in an imperfect manner, and afterwards it was pirated from 
his plans and working drawings, as seen in the large five-story building 
owned by the late Mr. Strong, northwest corner of Broadway and Waverley 
Place, some years since occupied by Mr. Wm. Jackson as a dry-goods 
store, and at present known as Mr. Jackson's mourning establishment. 
One of the prominent mercantile structures showing this order of architec- 
ture in a more extended form is the iron front and oblong building owned 
and occupied by the firm of Messrs. A. T. Stewart & Co., covering the 
whole block (say two acres), on 9th and 10th streets, Broadway and 4th 
avenue. The common observer will notice the uniformity of elevation of 
the cosmopolitan style of architecture. The so-called "Emperor of the 
Dry-Goods trade," Mr. A. T. Stewart, is, therefore, largely indebted to the 
so-called " Leader of Fashion " and " Transcendental Tailor," to use the 
language of the London Saturday Review. Mr. Fox claims to have 
originated the idea of showing how to construct grand, imposing and 
magnificent mercantile edifices, the finest of their kind on the continent 
of America or in Europe or elsewhere. 

* Geo. Fox & Co., Merchant Tailor and Outfitting Establishment, 1835— 184C. Geo. 
P. Fox, sole proprietor ; no partner other than his late lamented wife Mary. 



LIVING- AND departed. 247 



GEORGE P. FOX STILL LIVES. 

[From the N. Y. Express, July 7, 1871. J 

Our old Merchant Tailor, long the leader of fashions in New York, ap- 
peared July 4th, 1871, in his celebrated IT. S. costumes of Commanding 
Lieutenant, S. N. IT., then as Grand Admiral, then as a Commander-in- 
chief S. A. IT., and finally as the Emperor of Fashion, in which he wore 
his grand scarlet coat, a very costly, rich and beautiful garment, designed 
and made by him in 1852. He rode in a four-horse open barouche, deco- 
rated with a rare and unique international banner, on which were repre- 
sented the flags of all nations. A streamer from the same staff bore the 
words : "Faire sans dire." " Ventus secundus." On the front seat was a 
stuffed fox, appearing as upon a full run, with a rooster's head in his 
mouth, and the body on his back. The American Eagle surmounted the 
flag-staff. The whole presented a very marked and attractive appearance. 

Easter Monday he was invited to appear in the German procession, at 
the head of the column, and, saluting the Grand Army and Cavalry escort, 
consisting of over sixty-two thousand men, was honored, in return, by the 
representatives of William, Bismarck, Moltke, Our Fritz and the other 
Princes, and as " the Leader of Fashion." St. Patrick's Day, March 17, 
also Mr. Fox's birthday), Mr. Fox turned out with eleven horses, an open 
barouche, with four horses, taking the lead. A private two horse-carriage, 
with blinds-drawn, followed. Then came the yacht " City of Ragusa," 
on a truck drawn by four horses, Grand Admiral Fox commanding and 
giving his orders to captain and crew as if upon old ocean. Then came 
the baggage-wagon, with all of the costume dresses of the leader of fashion, 
the whole being an escort to the Hibernians and all the Sons of St. Pat- 
rick, consisting of an army of over forty thousand men. Mr. Fox designs 



248 CORRESPONDENCE OF THE 

in a short time, as early as September, 1871, to introduce in several num- 
bers, liis work on " The Philosophy of Modern Dress and Fashion," upon 
which he has expended a great deal of time and money. The advance 
sheets of this work have already been favorably noticed by the press. 



LIVING AND DEPARTED 249 



569 Broadway, Cor. Prince St., New Yoek, 
October IWi, 1871. 

George P. Fox, Esq : — 

Dear Sir, — Recollecting with pleasure your various Avell-known essays 
on Dress and Fashion, A. D. 1850 and 1860, and seeing, by the journal 
notices, your intention of revising and enlarging your work up to 1872, 
I desire to submit the following : 

I thank you for the kind interest you have taken in my behalf to ob- 
tain a contract for me to supply your wealthy friend with a bill of goods 
in my line, known as under-dress and men's furnishing, &c. ; and as I am 
informed that your friend proposes to take a voyage round the world, I 
am prepared to exhibit samples and supplies of all description of imported 
fabrics, &c, deemed suitable and requisite for that gentleman's wardrobe. 

Tou will perceive that the under-mentioned schedule contains descrip- 
tions of every supposed necessary article requisite for all climates, and 
for the adornment of his person (a la mode) when calling to pay his re- 
spects to the heads of the various Governments during his sojourn, etc. 

Before submitting the schedule to your friend, I should feel myself 
honored if you will do me the favor to call at my establishment as above, 
and give it your personal inspection, also any additional information 
appertaining to contemplated changes of fashion, &c, remarking that I 
have left space on the margin for your friend to mark the quantity of 
each or any article he may desire. 

I am yours, very respectfully, 

C. W. FRENCH. 



250 MEMORANDUM SCHEDULE. 



HEMORAND UM SCEED ULE OF GENTLEMEN'S FURNISHING 

GOODS, &c. 

White Cambric Ties Plain. 

White Cambric Ties Embroidered. 

White Corded Silk Ties. 

Black Corded Silk Ties. 

Fancy Colored Windsor Scarfs. 

Black Silk Scarfs, Pointed and Fringed Ends. 

Morning Breakfast Jackets. 

French Cardigan Jackets. 

Morning Eobe de Chambres. 

Prince Arthur Colored Shirts. 

Embroidered White Linen Shirts. 

Plain White Linen Shirts. 

White Muslin Fine Shirts. 

Linen Night Shirts (Ruffled). 

Muslin Night Shirts (Plain). 

Excelsior Linen Collars assorted Colors. 

Van Buest and other Mode, in Colors. 

Reversible Linen Cuffs. 

Oxford Linen Cuffs. 

Oxford Scarf, Plain and Fancy Colors. 

Prince Teck Scarf, Plain and Fancy Colors. 

Silk Pocket Handkerchiefs. 

White Linen Cambrick Handkerchiefs. 

Balbrigan £ Hose. 

The Best Merino -J- Hose, Assorted Shades. 



MEMORANDUM SCHEDULE. 251 

Light Kid Gloves, a la mode. 

Dark Kid Gloves, " 

Castor and Buckskin Gloves, a la mode. 

6 Thread Double-breasted Merino White Under Shirts. 

Gause Merino Single-breasted White Under Skirts. 

Thick 18 Thread Silk Under Shirts. 

Thin 3 Thread Silk Under Shirts. 

6 Thread Merino Drawers. 

Gauze Merino Drawers. 

18 Thread Silk Drawers. 

3 Thread Silk Drawers. 

8 and 12 Eibbed Twilled Silk Umbrella. 

Pemento-Mode Walking Sticks. 

English Travelling Rugs. 

Scotch Travelling Shawls. 

Sets Plain Gold and Agate Studs. 

Sets Stone Cameo Sleeve Buttons. 

Plain Gold Neck Studs. 

Fancy Coral Scarf Pins. 

Besantien Scarf Pins. 

Stone Cameo Scarf Pins. 

Suspenders according to taste or requirement. 

12 Thread Silk i Hose. 

3 Thread Silk i Hose. 

Mode Silk Gloves. 

Viesma Portmonaies (Russia Leather). 

Glove Boxes (Russia Leather). 

Handkerchief Boxes (Russia Leather). 

Cigar Cases and Match Boxes. 

Toilet Dressing Case complete. 

Card Cases — a la mode. 



252 PKEAMBLE. 



PREAMBLE. 

HEAD AND FOOT COVERING. 

The author expected in the outset to confine himself more particularly 
to the subject of outer garments, viz., clothing 1 , but submits the following 
as a list of the latest description of styles of foot and head covering for a 
gentleman of wealth and refinement who is about taking a voyage " round 
the world," and who, during his absence from his home, New York, and 
not wishing to be short of any needed article of attire during his sojourn 
on board his own steam yacht, provides his valet de chambre with the 
essentials of a polished gentleman's wardrobe. 

The following has been furnished us by the firm of Messrs. Hunt & 
Dusenbury, of Nos. 3, 4 and 5 Astor House, importers and dealers in hats, 
caps, &c, Broadway, New York. 

Schedule No. 2. 

Canvas Oil Skin Sou'wester, with Oil Skin Storm Jacket, Overcoat, 
Over-all Trousers to match 1 ; the same in India-rubber Water-proof Fabric. 

Cloth Travelling Caps, with Oil Silk Covers in U. S. N., old regulation 
pattern. 

Cloth Boat-race Caps. 

Black Silk Pocket Caps. 

Corduroy Duck-shooting Caps. 

Cotton Velvet Duck-shooting Caps. 

Fancy-colored Silk Horse-racing Caps. 

Dark and Light-colored Felt Soft Travelling Hats 

Ordinary Straw Hats. 



PREAMBLE. 253 

Fine Panama Straw Hats. 

Dark and Light Shades of Cloth Soft Hats. 

Morning and Evening Dress Hats, Felt, Silk and Beaver, suitable for 
the Seasons, including the Opera Hat, also appropriate Cases, all a la 
mode. 



Gentlemen's Boot-Maker, 23d Street, Broadway, opposite 
Madison Park, New York City. 

Schedule No. 3. 

House Slippers, No. 1. 

Gaiter, Our Fritz (just out), No. 7. 

Oxford Tie Shoe, No. 10. 

Broad Strap Shoe, No. 13. 

Balmoral Laced English Shoe, No. 16. 

Buckled English Shoe, No. 65. 

Webster Tie Shoe, No 29. 

Congress Gaiter Shoe, No. 8. 

Hunting Gaiter Shoe, No. 20. 

Low-buttoned Shoe, No. 12. 

Imitation Button Shoe, No. 2. 

Scotch Gaiter, No. 15. 

Dress Calf Boot, No. 1. 

Patent Leather Boots, No. li. 

Riding Boot, No. 9. 

Napoleon Boot, No. 23. 

Dress and Dancing Pumps, No. 21. 

Sea-goiug Salt Water Boots, No. 22. 

Hunting Boot, No. 20. 

As a matter of course, the polite reader will readily understand that 
the enumerations of articles, contained in schedules, Nos. 1, 2 and 3, are 
to be looked upon in the character of a catalogue, showing parts of gen- 



254 



PREAMBLE. 



tlemeu's attire, bo that in the hurry of further engagements we may 
refer to the same, when needing any articles, as above stated. It would 
he preposterous to suppose that a refined gentleman of elegant leisure 
would have a wardrobe the size of a merchant tailor's shop, &c. " Cut 
your coat according to your cloth," and, by all means, live within your 
means. Enough said to the poor and the rich of all the world. 




INDEX. 



INDEX 



Page 
American familiarity 72 

Avoid ridicule upon religious subjects 77 

A moderately well-informed lady, etc „ 81 

A true gentleman should not take 90 

A man is a fool to be dishonest 96 

A lady has the right at the latest moment to 91 

Author and Mr. John Ball 100 

An English philosopher is 120 

Attitudes of the Venus, beautiful in the 157 

Action ! Action ! 1G7 

Affectation 171 

A father's object 173 

Aim high 177 

African race, and taxes 182 



260 INDEX. 



Page 
Burke, Edmond, the great orator 20 

Berlin 23 

Brummell, Beau 29 

Bonaparte, to the disgust of 112 

Black, tlie color of darkness 145 

Blind man, to liken his notion of 147 

Ba^on, the great moralist, is 162 

Balvver, Sir H. L.... 215 



INDEX. 261 



I 



Page 

Clothes and Clothing 17 

Complexion, Miss Jones 27 

Charles I., king of England 31 

Cleanliness, order, for the proprieties of life..... 41 

Clergy, special dress for 56 

Catholic Church, vestments of, never vary 57 

Church, congratulations not to be offered in „ 64 

Cleanliness and good manners 71 

Conversational powers are not given to all 76 

China. The people were roused to fury 108 

Chesterfield, Lord, writing to 159 

Cicero's treatise upon old age 162 

Correspondence 199 

Commissioners of Emigration and Charity, so-called 185 

Castle Garden Emigrant Depot 186 

Corwin, Hon. Thomas 211 

Chase, Chief Justice S. P 225 

Cox, Hon. S. S 228 



262 1NDRX. 



Page 
Duess-maketc ." 22 

Dress, sarcasm levelled against 25 

D'Orsey, Count, in recent day 30 

Dress, American vs. European , 36 

Dress Coat indispensable in the ball-room 51 

Dress universally adopted, etc 54 

Dressed well .... 55 

Dishonorable and dishonored 98 

Diogenes was not anything the more 119 

Douglas, Hon. Stephen A 208 

Desjardin (of the French Legation) .... 220 



INDEX. 263 



Pagk 

Earl of Essex 25 

Earl of Harrington 29 

European sovereigns 53 

English constraint 72 

Eat with a fork instead of a knife 77 

Evil-doers, a short shift and a hoist - 101 

Eighteenth century 108 

Tattooed skin 117 

Egyptian linen, texture of 1 23 



264 INDEX. 



Pagb 

Far off liis coming shines 18 

Fox, Charles James, British Commoner 20 

Fashion: let it follow the treasures of the U. S 22 

Fenelon, Archbishop 25 

Fox, George P. It is no use to con, etc 27 

Fire Department, New York 35 

Fenelon's maxim 78 

Fashion was not to be so ruled by ■ 109 

Fashion, the English and French 114 

Fashion, the most ancient with 116 

Fashion has been denned '. . 118 

Foot covering 121 

Fop — vanity - 143 

Frivolous, the French 161 

Fillmore, Millard, Ex-President. 204, 205 



INDEX. 265 



Page 
Good exterior may become 26 

Golden ball introduced black velvet suits 53 

Gentleman, what constitutes a 69 

Gentleman should not ask 83 

George III., the tyrant . . 104 

Gustavus of Sweden Ill 

Graham, Dr., the fashionable, when consulted 115 

Gold gamblers . . 187 

Greeley, Hon. Horace 212 



266 INDEX. 



Page 
How remarkable well you look to-day 28 

Hunter, English, a picture of manliness 50 

Hambleton and Argyle, arms of the family. 65 

Horseback, accompanying a lady 88 

He that gatheretb by labor, etc 94 

Honest advocate, foundation stone of 9? 

History repeats itself: " Necessity knows no law ". . . 102 

Head covering 121 

His sis spanking grays .' 130 

Had not learned unblusliingly to confide 133 

Hazlitt says, " Fashion constantly begins and ends in two tilings," 139 

How to be considerable . ■. 168 

Hampden a lesson . , 175 

:Hoar, Hon. E. R. (Attorney-General) 227 



INDEX. 267 



Page 

Introductions by the consent of 73 

Invited guests first seek the lady of the house 74 

If a guest is particularly amusing, etc 76 

Imperial Nash's rule absolute , 134 

I have been in town and bring you the last 142 

Infant, the proportions of the form of, are 152 

I am sure you know that breaking your word is 163 

Insults and inj uries ...,..,>..., 165 



268 INDEX. 



i"AGE 

Jewels of silver and jewels of gold borrowed by the Israelites 

from the Egyptians 113 

James I., the cloak 128 

Jackal resided in the Indian jungle 141 

Juno, form and proportions 150 



Ktngsman, Col., witty „ 28 

King Nash, like all popular monarchs 131 



INDEX' 269 



Page 

Let liis dulness . . . . 78 

Laugh and applaud in right place 79 

Legislature found it necessary to interfere ..... 112 

Lying , ., 1 65 

Learning and politeness 174 

Lind, Jenny .. 215 

Lytton, Bui wer (" Owen Meredith ")............... ....„■. 216 



270 INDEX. 



Page 
Merchant 22 

Marlborough, before the battle of Blenheim 31 

Militia, New York State, etc 35 

Marcy, late Mr 37 

Marshals, U. S., wore a badge 59 

Mourning worn for relatives, length of time 68 

Marks the untaught savage of 107 

Moorish women of Barbary 124 

Medean dress, a loose, flowing robe 124 

Macaroni, or highly dressed beau of , . . . . 138 

Manners, advantage of 108 

Moral character. ....... 175 



INDEX. 



271 



Page 

Napoleon I., restored, etc 31 

Navies of England and France 33 

Noailles as chief de la mode .... 40 

Never offer your hand to 74 

Never become a lecturer in polite social circles 75 

Napoleon I. — England a nation of shopkeepers 100 

Neck, and sometimes wrists, also ankles 122 

Nash was a shrewd and inveterate censor of 133 

No one contemptible 169 

Necessary accomplishments 176 

Now that I have got a pig and a cow 188 



Otjt-door relief office of Third Avenue. 



186 



272 



INDEX. 



Page 

Petersham, Lord 29 

Police, New York 35 

Park, Central, New York 46 

Park, Hyde, England 48 

Polite as a Frenchman 71 

Pope beautifully expresses 95 

Pen more powerful than the sword 101 

Persians, ancient, was 124 

Pericles from the time of 125 

Peruke, of French origin, had 129 

Politicians and Fourth-of-July stump orators 181 

Political. — New honest party 184 

Perry, Commodore, M. C , .209, 210 



INDEX. 273 



Page 
Queen Elizabeth, the reign of 27 

Queen Elizabeth 109 

Queen Elizabeth, the reign of 55 



l 



Richelieu 25 

Raleigh, Walter, and others 25 

Regulation and dress of the U. S. Army and Navy 82 

Richard III. easily concealed 40 

Romans made their garments chiefly 126 

Recherches sur les costumes 129 

Reminiscences from 1831 to 1851 138 

Railroads and fraudulent stock speculators 187 



274 INDEX. 



C. Page 
SCULPTURE 24 

Smith is a good fellow when you know liim 26 

Secretaries of legation and foreign consuls 37 

Scott, General, to fit and suit his form 39 

Supreme Court, Judges of U. S 58 

Sheriff, New York, wore a sword and cockade 59 

Shaftesbury once wrote 70 

Shears ...101 

Supplement Series • 105 

Sultan Mahmoud ordered Ill 

Smock-frocks, the Norman cavaliers took from... 117 

.Such is the intimate relation between the body and the mind, 158 



INDEX. 275 



Page 
Taste is, in fact, like good music 19 

The tailor and the dress maker 22 

The great Christian maxim, " Do unto others" 93 

Turks would not allow 110 

The bath was the first fashionable resort in the 132 

The formalities received a severe blow at the French Eevolution, 135 

The well-bred man feels 165 

Temper 172 

Townsend, Hon. E. D. (Adjutant General) ........ 226 



276 



INDEX. 



Page 



Uniform continued through the reign of James, William, and 



Ann. 



Uniform does not make the soldier 



31 

58 



I 



Virtue is often found in the wardrobe 22 

Verdingles debate in Parliament 110 

Virginia tobacco — Sir Walter Raleigh 118 

Vulgar scoffers 167 



INDEX. 277 



Page 
Washington, General, was celebrated 30 

Wellington, Duke of, in 1871 33 

Wales, Prince of / 41 

Wine, do not press upon 77 

Who delight in false weights and measures 94 

When he first undertook the government of Bath 131 

Wellington hoots 137 

White the color of the day 145 

Woman 169 

Washington, George, and the early revolutionary Fathers 183 

When you are sure you are right, go ahead, etc 188 

Webster, Daniel 199, 200, 202 

Webster, Hon. Sidney 206, 207 

When in Rome do as Eome does 185 

Ward's Island, etc 186 



Young America too often 191 



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